Harmonic Oscillating Power Electric generator video

[hartiberlin]

Hi,
here is attached a video from Jim driving with his modified MEG type
Harmonic Oscillating Power Electric (HOPE) generator via a soundcard
2 neon tubes.
I hope he will post more info on the circuit.

Regards, Stefan.

[hartiberlin]

Hi Stefan,

    To light up the two neon tubes, so far I have only been able to use the sound card from my older HP Pavilion to get enough audio volume. The Portable CD player does not reach the apparent critical volume level necessary to reach the point of lighting two neon tubes. There is a certain db level needed to start the harmonic reaction in the materials used to build the unit, and at this time it is not completely clear what exactly is going on to cause the unit to generate energy, but a few good engineer's do have some interesting theories about this. When a certain level of volume is reached the unit immediately jumps up to at least 1000VAC and 2 amps minimum. Even the smallest increase in volume after reaching that critical level causes the power level to jump several hundreds of volts at a time. Right now I can't even turn the volume all the way up and get a reading with my multimeter because the power jumps up so high that it blows out my meter. The limits have not been tested yet by any means, but I am hoping to be able to do something about this soon. We have been hung up in the process of trying to sell our home and there are a lot of problems with the buyer's getting their loan approved etc.., etc.. . This device is similar to the MEG but highly modified. The wiring configuration is novel to say the least, and is far from the conventional circuitry we are used to in electronics. If I was to try and input AC the way it is wired for sound right now, it would short out and simply not work. However with a few small changes I can convert it to use AC input and get over 1000VAC with only 24VAC 1000mA input. I would not be able to read any amerage at all by using AC as the input. The fact is, that I can get much higher output both in volts and ampere's by using sound frequencies as the input, and it takes much less energy to generate that sound than it does to use electricity. The unit never even gets above room temperature no matter how much energy it produces or how big of a load I put on it. It seems to light four neon tubes as easily as it does two. Also, you should be able to link more units on to the first and use the same original sound input because the sound will travel directly through the unit and out again with less than 1v lost to the first unit and no detectable loss in volume. This is a very promising aspect of this design because it means that we should be able to power many units with no more energy than it takes to power one unit. It does not take a genius to do the math on this one Stefan, and the implications of this ability should be obvious to just about anyone. Quite frankly I am a bit nervous about making to much public at this time beyond what I have already said, and there is already a brand new cell tower across the street which has been beaming as much as 4+ volts of AC into my bedroom. I personally believe that this is the reason for the constant migraines that I have been having since this tower went up two months ago. Also, we were already receiving four full bars on our cell phone reception, and I can see no logical reason for suddenly erecting another tower across the street. I have had many threats and attempts to shut me down, and I am seriously worried about getting this device to be witnessed and examined by qualified engineer's and expert's before something else happens. Sterling thinks I'm just paranoid, but I come from a background of working for the U.S., DoD at the center of many black projects which were well above top secret, and I know many facts which Sterling is completely clueless about. I have been threatened face to face in the past by the military and have been under observation by various U.S., agencies a great deal over the period of the last 30 years. These guy's do not fool around, and they mean exactly what they say, so I believe I am justified in having my worries. I have given descriptions time and time again, but nobody ever seems to read or save the information, and I am literally very sick and tired. I have posted photos of every angle of the device which should give anyone with enough interest all that would be needed to reproduce the device, including the wiring configuration. This latest problem with the sale of the house has set me back at least 6 weeks or more again, and I honestly believe that this is a very important discovery that needs to be throughly checked out. I have found absolutely no downside to this device and/or design and every aspect about it seems positive and very promising. I think the problem is that there have been to many phonies along the way which have ruined things for serious inventors and so no one pays any attention any more. There is an engineer in Utah who has volunteered to draw up the circuitry schematics for the design, other than that, I have not found anyone else willing to help except for a guy in town here who just happens to be a reconisance expert for the U.S., Office of Homeland Security. There are other agencies of whom I am aware, who are also watching the ISBP project closely, and so I do not believe that they would be so concerned with my work if there were no reason for this. American's have to be among the dumbest people on the planet Stefan! I am pasting the materials list needed to reproduce the HOPE Generator unit, and I am hoping also to be able to write-up a step by step assembly proceedure as soon as possible for those interested in doing this. Right now I am living with my eldery mother and stepfather who are both in there mid 80's, and there is just to much going on around here at the moment to find the time needed to do this write-up now. If you like, you may post the materials list wherever you want to, and I encourage everyone to build one of these units for themselves. The more people who do this, the less likely it is to be hushed up, and the safer everyone will be in the long run. For those who cannot figure things out from the photos, they will have to wait another month or so at least until we can get moved to a new location. Most of the folks in the ISBP os Project forum have more information than anyone else, but the wiring process is fairly complicated and will need the step by step instructions to complete the unit. I will do my best to get this information out as soon as at all possible, but it is simply impossible right now. I am willing to turn this unit over to someone who is trustworthy and competent if they are willing to draw up the diagrams. One thing I will not do however is to send this unit through the mail. It would have to be picked up in person! I haven't yet met anyone who is willing to do this, and so it will most likely be several months before the specs are posted on the Internet. If something happens to me before that point, you will know for absolute certainty that it was not an accident or from natural causes.


Below is a list of materials you will need to reproduce the original HOPE Generator in it's entirety. This is not a step by step assembly manual, and is meant only to help you prepare to have the right materials on hand in order to build your own unit. A step by step instructions paper will be drawn up as soon as possible. It is recommended that you obtain these materials in the mean time and wait a little longer before attempting to assemble your unit as there are details involved with the wiring configuration that need to be followed exactly for the unit to operate correctly. If you attempt to assemble and reproduce the original unit without the correct wiring instructions, you will most likely be disapointed by the outcome. However, if you wait a while longer and follow the exact proceedures which will be described in detailed step-by-step instructions, you will likely be elated and over-joyed with the outcome. There are a few more details which will be brought up at the time the assembly instructions are posted which may cause many of you to want to build several more HOPE Generators, but for now I ask that you try and have a little more patience with me as there are many matters to take care of before I will have the time to take care of this matter.



Original HOPE Generator Materials



1. AMCC - 320 C-Core:

purchased from - Elna Magnetics (http://www.elnamagnetics.com/)

sales rep., Cindy Clarke CClarke@elnamagnetics.com

The cost of the core is about $104 USD. Approx., $112 Total with S&H.

2. SmCo Magnets minimum grade # (17 or higher):

You can use 1 or many magnets depending on the thickness however the magnets must measure the equivalent of 35mm to precisely fit the core gap.The magnets which I used were purchased from the ForceField web-site at -(http://www.wondermagnet.com/), and measured .50" Wide x 1.0" Long x 3/16" Thickness and were stacked together to precisely span the gap of the core. The length of the magnets were situated along the line between the two halves which made up the total core.

Here is one solution to the problem and I believe that the 1.0" disc magnets will work at least as well and most likely even better than the 1.0" x 0.50" reclangular magnets which I used originally. Check out the web-site and SmCo specs below. The P/N stands for part number for those of you who want to order these.

MMC (Magnetic Material Components)
http://www.mmcmagnetics.com/ourproducts/main_StdParts.htm


SmCo - DISC MAGNET

P/N Length Thickness Grade

SCDS-1000-125 1.000" 0.125" 26 MGOe (2:17)


NOTE: Eleven of these would add up to exactly (34.925mm). A piece of tape on either end may be sufficient to make up the slight 0.075mm difference of the 35mm gap of the AMC 320 C-Core. This is what I did. Also, the various cores may have a very slight difference in actual measurements which can vary within a millimeter or so and you can give "Elna" the exact measurement of 34.925mm and have them mail you the closest match for core gap. Talk to Cindy Clarke at Elna Magnetic Products.


Another possible source for SmCo magnets might be MCE Products although it appears that many of the magnetic products manufacturer's are becoming very closed to working with the general public.
http://www.mceproducts.com/materials/material-list.asp?MaterialTypeCode=1005

3. Both (27) and (29) gauge Tesla Wire:

purchased from E-Bay (http://www.ebay.com/)

I recommend doing a search all catagories search for "Magnet Wire" which is the same as Tesla Wire.

The two spools of wire which I purchased were each 20,000 ft. rolls. I still have enough wire to build several more units, so it is not necessary to purchase such large rolls of wire, however it was much more of a bargain to buy it this way on E-Bay, and it is my opinion that a good inventor can always find many uses for high quality Tesla Wire.

4. Contact Strips:

Two 2" 8 contact point strips

Two 1.5" 4 contact point strips

These can be found at most Radio Shack stores but may depend on the area of the country you live in. These strips are the black strips with screws that you can see in the photo's of the HOPE unit, located on both the top and sides of the unit. They are not absolutely necessary but they do make it easier for testing the unit and will prevent the eventual breaking of the wires due to bending and over handling. They are very inexpensive and are well worth the extra couple dollars in the long run.

5. Cardboard and/or Hardboard:

You will need to find some good stiff cardboard and/or hardboard to cut and glue the spools to wrap the coils for your HOPE unit. I used strickly thin stiff cardboard of various thicknesses to form my spools, but you could also use 1/16"hardboard for the sides of your spools if you prefer. You could also conceivably use plastic if you like but I would recommend using some very strong glue if you do as a good deal of pressure with build up between the two sides of the spools as the number of winds increase while winding your coils.

6. Single Strand Insulated Wire:

2 feet of (Single Strand Insulated Wire) will be needed during the wiring process of building your HOPE unit. The wiring configuration is a novel one!

7. Transformer:

The transformer you use will largely determine the total output both in voltage and amperage, and I would suggest using as large a transformer as you can afford or find. The transformer that I am currently using is an old antique home built unit with variable inputs and outputs, and with a maximum rating of 210v. In most cases you will find that the transformer will substantially improve the total output wattage but I have found that the increase will depend on the size and type of transformer you select. Without the transformer which I am currently using I have noticed that I get only approximately half of the total output. Also, when not using the additional transformer, the wiring configuration needs to be changed slightly in order to achieve an optimum output value.

8. 4 Wire Telephone Jack:

In the photo's of the HOPE gen., you will see a small white box situated on the top center of the unit. This is a 4 wire telephone jack! The reason for this jack was originally for the purpose of conducting bioenergetic experiments using an additional device which for this project is not necessary to go into at this time. However, in order to describe the final wiring configuration, it would be easier to go ahead and add this component to your list of materials needed because of the complexity of the total wiring configuration. You should be able to find one of these in any fairly large hardware store or telephone supply store, and possibly even Best Buy, Circuit City, Home Depot, etc.., etc.. . Without this final component I will have to spend a lot of extra time trying to find a way around the problem and at this point cannot promise that there will be a solution in order to achieve the same results.

9. Stereo Audio Jacks:

This is not one of the required components but you may eventually find that it is much easier to plug in an audio jack than to try to jury rig an audio cable etc.., and so I recommend that you find a female stereo audio jack with at least a couple inches of wire/cable which you can then strip the ends of and easily hook up to your HOPE unit. I have chosen a 1/8" size female stereo audio adapter but it is up to you how you want to do this. You can also find stereo audio adapters which you can use to adapt 1/4" plugs to fit 1/8" plugs and vice versa. These can come in handy if you want to be able to use different sources for your audio input.

10. 1" x 2" lumber:

For the purpose of stablizing and securing the unit, you can use 1 inch by 2 inch pine or fur lumber. If you look at the photos of the HOPE unit, you should be able to see that there are four square blocks of wood on either side of the unit which are placed under the core and on top of the core. You may also be able to see two approximate 5" lengths of wood directly in front of each set of blocks. I used both hot glue and wood screws to mount and secure the unit and found this to be the simplest way of doing this. I also used regular Elmer's Glue along with wood screws to secure the top piece of cardboard to the wood frame. The reason for all of this is to keep the core from seperating and to prevent accidental damage during the process of carrying the unit around.

11. 3/4" Baseboard:

You will need a board measuring a minimum of 6.50" x 10" to build and secure the unit on. Any additional exterior box or frame is up to you, however do not build any exterior box./frame until the unit has been fully assembled and completed.

12. Screws:

I recommend using 14 .50" sheet metal screws for connecting the exterior coils and single strand wire you will see around the base of the unit, and about 1.75" sheet rock screws for the places where you will secure the top to the side posts of the frame. You should also drill a single screw through the bottom of the 6.50" x 10" board that you are using to build the unit on.

13. Adhesives/Glues:

I highly recommend using hot glue to secure the wood blocks and to help level and/or fill any spaces between the core and the wooden blocks and frame. You will also need to use a good liquid glue like Elmer's or something similar to glue your cardboard spools together. Hot glue is not necessary for building the spools, however once they have been aligned to their proper positions on the core, you can secure them with hot glue and this will help to keep vibration to a minimum. You will also need the hot glue to secure the exterior coils to the corners of the HOPE unit after you have mounted the unit and secured the frame to the baseboard.

14. Aligator Clips:

These are not a necessity however I highly recommend that you purchase at least a dozen aligator clips for building and testing your HOPE Generator. It will save you a lot of time and work in the long run and they are not very expensive at all. The clips should be between 12 and 24 inches in length and preferably different colors to make things less confusing than they have to be.

Cheers,

Jim

[hartiberlin]

I just finished fixing my CD-RW Drive and
burned 3 one minute wave files of a 16400Hz Sine Wave frequency onto a CD-R. I then popped it into the cheapo $16 portable CD player
I picked up at Walgreens Drug store yesterday. The CD player uses 2 AA batteries so I figured that if I could light up a fluorescent
light with the CD player running the frequency through my HOPE generator maybe more people would pay attention. Guess what Stef,
........ it works! Not real bright but it does light it up. The CD player uses headphones and hardly puts out any volume but its
enough to give me a reading of at least 360VAC at over .60 amps. I'd like to see anyone do that so far. The player doesn't quite hit
the critical volume to start the cascade effect I was hoping to show but it's
pretty darn close. Just a little amp circuit should do it, and then nobody will be able to argue with me anymore heh-heh. Anyway
Stef, feel free to post the video clip wherever you want and I want to get the info out to as many as will listen. I'm not ready to
claim free energy yet, but I think I'm getting darn close. Another couple months maybe, hopefully. Thanks for writing again, and
stay in touch once in a while okay?

Best Regards,

Jim
P.S. I'll try to get a new vid showing the 2 AA CD player lighting up a tube as soon as I can get to it.

[hartiberlin]

Additional Infos from Jim:


Stefan,

      I am attaching half of the photos with this reply and half with the next incoming message. The sound that I am using is produced by freeware software which is available on the Internet. Again, it is totally freeware NOT shareware so you don't have any licensing or advertisements to have to deal with. I usually just use a sine wave only because it is less irritating to listen to. However almost any type of wave can be used including plain old "white noise" or static. The more even the tone is, the more steady the output rate is and the less flucuation in the energy readings. I have even played Beethoven and Chopen through the unit to see if it would work with music. It does produce energy with any type of sound input, but at certain freqencies it will put out much more than at other frequencies. The prime frequencies seem to vary depending on the wiring configuration along with the specific number of additional coils and the number of winds per coil. A little test run through the various frequencies will tell you where your prime frequencies are found for any particular unit. Modulated frequencies are not recommended if you want to put out a steady rate of power as the power output is directly related to the changes and modulations of the sound input. So far I have only used the "NCH Tone Generator" software to test various waves and frequencies and so there is still a lot of room for discovery here. I have also tried mixing several frequencies together to see what would happen but as I said before, a steady regular single tone/frequency seems to give the best results at this point. I have noticed that a square wave usually gives the highest output, however there are certain frequencies which various other wave forms will work just as well. Each time I have made an additional modification to the device I have to find the best frequency all over again because it is very specific to how you have it wired and what materials are either included or excluded. I have also done some tests using various musical instruments to see which ones would produce the highest energy output. Right now the "Oboe", "Trumpet", and "Organ" seem to produce the highest values, but that may be dependent upon the specific set-up as well. I haven't yet had the spare time to test many of these kinds of things. It is very clear however that this technology is very energy efficient if nothing else, as the portable CD player I bought uses only 2 AA batteries and when I play a 16400Hz sine wave from a CD recording I made on my PC, the voltage goes as high as 400VAC at .67 Amps. Perhaps you could tell me what that figures out to in Watts? Also Stefan, as I have stated before, the CD players volume is regulated by the FCC and FDA in this country and is just short of putting out the critical volume to send the output over 1000VAC. A couple of my friends are supposed to be working on building some small amplifier circuits and variable tone generators but I'm not sure they really understand what is needed yet, and haven't even seen the device in person yet. Anyway, save these photos just in case something happens to me before I get around to posting the step-by-step instructions because you can see much of how the device is wired by close inspection of these photos. I do not plan on patenting this device and this is the reason that I have chosen to post it on the Internet. The U.S., Patent laws state that any idea and/or invention which is posted on the Internet automatically become public domain/property, and this is the way it should be. Nobody should have the exclusive rights to free energy technologies or even to extremely energy efficient technologies in my opinion. This is for the whole world and there are absolutely no restrictions to the development and deployment of this technology. Post it wherever you like and encourage other's to do the same is my battle cry. Still I am not yet claiming this to be free energy because things really need to be checked out closely. I do believe that if this is not totally free energy, that it is the closest thing to it that we have seen in many years and I don't think it will take much to improve on this technology to eventually show true OU beyond any doubt. Remember to save the photos now okay? Talk to you later Stefan.

Best Regards,

Jim

[hartiberlin]

Here are the pictures from Jim enclosed in a ZIP archive.

Regards, Stefan.