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Overunity Machines Forum



help to install an HHO device into a VW Golf 3

Started by hartiberlin, November 09, 2007, 04:56:31 AM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

h20power

Hi, I use the PWM just to put it under some sort of control, nothing more.

msghaleb

Hi H2OPower,

Thanks a lot so far for all your support.

I have 2 questions please.

1 - The Hydrogen Cell is connected throw 1 path in your Golf correct? because I saw other cars (mostly big cars) it is connected throw 2 paths 1 the intake manifold (when the engine is on but the car is not moving) and 2 (the main wide air flow used when the car is running or the RPM is high) but I guess we have only 1 path in the Golf right?

2 - When your are pressing the GAS pedal to move the car, how to Motor will know that it should not take more GAS and should depend more on the Hydrogen?

Thanks a million.

MG

h20power

I have it in a VW Sirocco, but to try an answer the question. The effects of vacuum on eletrolysis kinda act like a self regulating unit. If the demand is high on the engine so is the vacuum, when the demand is low, the vacuum pressures created are lower. I hooked up to the main vacuum line feeding the brake booster on the car right at the intake manifold, and it goes strait to the cell.

The effects of a vacuum on electrolysis Here is the math of the process:   
At 1 ATM 298k the energy requirments are W = PDV = (101.30 x 10^3 Pa)(1.5 moles)(22.4 x 10^-3 m^3/mol)(298K/273K) = 3.715 KJ
At .2 ATM and 298k the energy requirments are; W = PDV = (20.260 x 10^3 Pa)(1.5 moles)(22.4 x 10^-3 m^3/mol)(298K/273K) = 0.7431 KJ
At .1 ATM and 298k the energy requirments are; W = PDV = (10.130 x 10^3 Pa)(1.5 moles)(22.4 x 10^-3 m^3/mol)(298K/273K) = 0.3715 KJ

Note that is take lest energy to break water down with higher vacuum pressures, but note the power being fed into the cell stays constant so you get more gas as a result.

I hope this helps you out.

ramset

H20 I have a question .In my part of the U.S.A. families of lower income are having to spend monies they do not have to attempt to pass emmision standards[set bye the state] for their cars .I know you are on a mission to run on straight hydroxy,  however the simpler design booster could get most of these cars thru emmisions without sending them to the scrap yard  which would be a win win situation for the taxpayer[no car no work we all pay] and the families [a good car that gets better milage and cleaner emmisions ].I wish to donate my time and effort to help these families with this problem [in an election year and a very good cause]  and I am VERY sincere  .My question  can I use you're cell design without a pwm and with a bubbler and still use rain water to get the job done [Emmisions] your comments greatly appreciated Chet
Whats for yah ne're go bye yah
Thanks Grandma

h20power

Ramset,

That cell disign was ment for use with a vacuum, but it's purpose is just to save on gas. Things that you don't see in my video are a water flow pump and a water mister. The cell is quite simple other than having two chambers in one. One chamber is for the electrolysis and the other for the water level and water flow pump. I don't like bubblers to me they are a waste of time, Stanley Meyer didn't use one nor does Dr. Daniel Dingel. The key is to understand the use of hydrogen in internal combustion engines. I already posted the Arizona study that will aid in putting hydrogen safely into the engine. I just took advantage of the weakest spot in an engines design with respect to effeicency.

Now in using my design as long as you don't intend to sell it sure be my guest. The cost for the cell only is around $80-90 dollars. Water mister is around $190 dollars with shipping, and the water flow pump is around $50 dollars. The other cell or new WFC I posted is ment only for Dingel/Meyer type of technology and will cost over $250 dollars for the metal and tank only.

The way I made the cell is like this the plates are negetive postive negetive ect.., and are 3x6. The plastic shims are cut 1/4x3 and are at both sides of the plates giving an 3x5 working area. Now I made this for 3 phase power suply but it can be used as normal with just one contection on either side of the tank. You will have too drill a larger hole on the side you don't want to thread into for the connections, and fill that hole with the same thinkness as the metal with plastic shims so everything seals up right, other than that it was very simple and I leave it up to you on how you want too build it. I used 19 plates I think all spaced .020 apart. When making them you will have to put in the shims for the full length or you will never get it flat then when it is all tighten up pull the unused shims out. The tank is made of 1/2 inch acrylic too withstand a blow back if it happens, better too use 3/4 if you are sure you will get some blow back from time too time. It is built like a tank very strong. I don't play around with fuel of any type, to this date I have never poped off a single bubble of hho with fire. I don't play with my work, I keep the proper focuse at all times. Hydrogen is too be respected at all times, and I have no time for fun and games. The connections are outside of the tank no wire is too be in the tanks at anytime that way the electricty goes only where you want it too go, and that is in the plates for production of hho gas. Even the tubing I use is ment for the job at hand: http://www.sisweb.com/vacuum/sis/steelhos.htm and the level switch I used for the auto fill;
http://www.liquidlevel.com/products_switches_standard_vt_LS-14-190.asp

I hope this helps you out some.