Self Running Micro TPU, with closed loop.

[Gregi]

Hi all,

I completed my circuit as well.
1.5uF, 1000uF, BC550C
I used 0.6mm iron wire (bought at gardening shop), bifilar 30 turns.
Trigger is 0.54mm copper enameled wire. (this is probably too thin)
It seems that it works better when trigger is on top of the iron wires. Operating time is quite short, like not really more than 10 secs, but I have a kind of spin-up effect. So led starts out with a strong blink, than it goes faster and faster before it dies out.Its like almost continuously on, but at this time it is really dim.
I am following this thread from the start, but I don't remember anyone talking about this. Is it some common thing?

I'll try other wires, magnets and another transistor too.

Explications are welcome for the spin-up effect.

Cheers,
Greg

[4Tesla]

@Gregi
Mine is at a constant rate.. but haven't tried iron wire yet or two types of wire... that would be my guess of what is causing this effect.. but I don't know why it is happening.

@Silvije
Mine is also weak.  I think it has to do with the core.  One thing I am going to try is to add more windings of the coil going to the LED (secondary coil) and see if that increases the current.
Edit: Extra winding on the secondary didn't work.. let me know if you get the LED brighter. - Thanks

4Tesla

[Bruce_TPU]

Hello All,

I tried placing one lead of the primary of the bfcc (barium ferrite coil core) and ran it to a germanium diode and then to the postive side of the 1000uf Capacitor.  I LOST 11.5 minutes run time.  Go figure.   

I have wound a second barium ferrite and placed it in parallel with the first.  I am testing that now, as I type.

Two other experiments I hope to accomplish tonight.  Rewind one of my toroids  with a copper trigger, 10 turns and then a trifilar winding with my new iron (or Nickel.  Pkg does not say) floral wire.  And to wrap a third bfcc with a iron secondary, and see if any difference in run time.  I will let you know, as always if I can increase run time!   

Also, everyone should know that my LED is not just barely there, but is bright blinking the entire time, except the last few minutes.   

@ EM
I attempted to build your modified Dr. Shiffler's circuit, but I have had a difficult time.  Please give me the transistor number, and values for the pot, C1, etc.  This would be very helpful. 

I want to use your oscillator to kick start the good doctor's circuit and then feed back that to the oscillator.  The efficiency of the CSR combined with the perhaps OU from the Doctor's circuit, might just give us enough to make this thing self sustaining!     Thanks!

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce

[EMdevices]

Bruce,  I used the same NPN  from Radio Shack with the hfe=200  (15 per box) that you have. Potentiometer is 2K ohms.  But I'm sure others will work or can be made to work with a resistor in series.
EM

[Bruce_TPU]

Bruce,  I used the same NPN  from Radio Shack with the hfe=200  (15 per box) that you have. Potentiometer is 2K ohms.  But I'm sure others will work or can be made to work with a resistor in series.
EM

@ EM
Thank you very much.  I just need the recommended capacitor value for C1, please, and I should be good to go.

How are your own experiments progressing?

@ All
It took me forever to wind that iron coil.  I was very sad that the Trifilar wind did not work with this type of wire on my core, at all.     I then tried it wound the exact same way as my copper 20 gauge magnet wire, and the LED only self sustained for 1 minute 10 seconds.  I tried it several times, and it was always at that, give or take a few seconds either way.

This proves several things to me:
1.  The coil is most certainly involved in the 38 minutes, 52 second run times with my other copper wound coil.

2.  That this metal wire I used, (either iron, nickel, or steel) was not useful for my modified circuit. 

I have one experiment left to run for the night.  I will let you know what comes of it, if any success.

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce