Bedini replication in Germany

[hansvonlieven]

G'day all,

The Skaflex I routinely use is:

Sikaflex Polyurethane sealing compound. Cures by reaction with atmospheric moisture to form a durable elastomer. One part, sandable & paintable. Resists weathering, shock absorbing, UV resistant, dampens vibration. Use for sealing, joint filling, insulating, bonding timber panels. Low sag. Dries tack free in one hour (at 23?C), a 3mm thick seam fully cures in 24 hours. Elastic, stretches to 400% before breaking.

   Sikaflex-291 Highest structural strength.

This is straight from the catalogue. One of the reasons I suggest Sikaflex instead of Araldite or another epoxy glue is that you can undo the bond if you have made a mistake or if you want to change something without damaging your components. Since it behaves similar to a silicone compound you can cut it with  a razor blade and remove the component without too much trouble.

Hans von Lieven

[albert]

Thanks, Mr von Lieven- are you a German?
I will look into the sikaflex compound as soon as possible!

Ren,

well, the gas theory. I think it only works up to a point. I don't think it should be interpreted literally. the skin effect certainly makes the charge behave like a gas in some instances. Otherwise we should be switching to a bellows system instead of messing around with coils.?

charging batteries: I have tried to charge different kinds of batteries with the SSG. At the moment I have a big 100 amp hour gel cell, NATO CUBE, that was brought to me in a dead state. I could bring this to the point where it can power a 40 Watt car headlight again. but it's not like new, I have had only a few cycles on it.
My 12 Volt 7 aH gel cells are used in a variety of configurations. I use them in series 3 in/ 3 out for the bat swapping tests. There are marked differences between battery brands.
I have recently tried to charge all six of them, v3 and 3 in parallel, and that works, too.
I use a small power supply to charge single gel cells overnight and can bring them up to 17, 18 volts. the Nato cube will go to 15 volts. The smaller bats definitely start to "cold boil". A strange effect. The battery stays stone cold, yet it sizzles like a wiener schnitzel in the pan...
I also wonder where the hydrogen gas goes since there is no pressure on the sealed bats. No safety valves opening, bulging or the like.
Try this with a normal charger and the bat will blow up on you and get hot.
I tried the capacitor pulse method but could not get it to work for purely technical reasons so far. Even a 220 volt relay will stick or the contacts will fuse because of the current.
I want to try a purely mechanical switch.
My coils are all trifilar. 0.8 mm wire for the power, 0.6 mm for the trig.
I made so much of the litz wire, I had to use it up making several identical coils. The new machine will have 5 wire type coils.

The cap on the front end: This is definitely something I will try. At the moment, I'm not at home but at work until Christmas. So experimenting is off for the moment....

I think the idea of just sending back some voltage to the primary won't work ...at least not for long. From what I have read in the other forums, this seems to damage the batteries in the long run, as they don't seem to like being switched over from charge to discharge.

I'll definitely roughen the surfaces to be glued on the rotor. On the magnets it wont work. They are too damn hard.
something seems to be wrong with the website here, I tried twice to type this but got thrown out when I posted it. Probably some overload!

good night!

albert

[hansvonlieven]

Thanks, Mr von Lieven- are you a German?
I will look into the sikaflex compound as soon as possible!

Yes Albert I am, though I live in Australia. Incidentally, please call me Hans, I don't like formality.

Hans

[Ren]

Thanks, Mr von Lieven- are you a German?
I will look into the sikaflex compound as soon as possible!

Yes Albert I am, though I live in Australia. Incidentally, please call me Hans, I don't like formality.

Hans

He has to be an Aussie! None of us 'ere like formalitiy.

Albert, I must point out that I havnt tried the cap at the front of the system yet. I only just thought of it the other day. It could possibly even lower the amp draw from the primary if it is matched in size correctly. Whether it will allow battery swapping is another question. Can I ask if you have tried charging one to three (or four or five...)on the charger? As in one 12v 7ah charging 3 12v 7ah? I thought of another way you could continue the cycle if this was the case. You could use your four or five charged batteries to run an inverter and charge your run battery conventionally. You'd have to match you c20's and such but it is possible with the right setup I guess. Of course this means the wheel isnt turning  all the time, but every time it does its basically turning for free .

I am still looking to master this cap pulser setup and I am having trouble with the scr. If anyone out there can offer any advice about the scr, as in function, part number and wiring, I would be greatly appreciative.

Ordered 4 12v 7.2ah batteries and a trickle charger yesterday. There arriving on Monday, which coincidently is my B'day! Yay! I'll probably be a grinch this Christmas, locked away in the lab. Lol

[Ren]

By the way Hans, if that avatar is a pic of you, you're the spitting image of my mates dad! I cant help but apply his attributes to you! (You're not a VB drinker are you, as this would be too freaky!)