Bedini replication in Germany

[prometei]

Did anybody ofyou include spark gaps in the charging side of the circuits ?
Makes these Bedini type much more effective.

Where would this spark gap be on this schematic?

[hartiberlin]

@prometei,
that is a new circuit diagram.
Normally Bedini had behind the D2 diode still a big capacitor and if this
cap was charged up to around 30 Volts he dumped then the charge via
mechanical switches into the charge battery.

The mechnical switches were the sparkgaps then as it was sparking when the
switch was closed.
This way the switch electrodes get comsumed and produce free electrons that
get into the circuit and charge up the battery even more.

[albert]

Hello,

zott your machine looks great. can you give us a drawn schematic of your cap pulse system? Or have you hooked the caps up in permanence?

I have now modified my very first simple bike wheel machine to make the hub of the wheel turn with it. I now can test switch methods. tried the classical bedini cap pulse device -that did not work too well for me. I then tried having a very large cap on the input. It only gets a short blast from the input battery when the switch closes once per revolution of the wheel. so the wheel will turn only on the cap for most of the time. this seems to be easier on the input battery.
I then tried to close the loop putting a fwbr on the output charging a cap. This was then pushed back into the input battery. thee input battery stays at the same voltage for a long time and then it begins to run down....
Stefan, The spark gap idea - sparking switches might do the same thing- well, I have not had much success with that so far. I used copper on the rotating part of the switch and copper tongues cut from sheet copper for the contacts. On top of  the contacts I used a big drop of solder for the area where they touch the rotating part of the switch. Should it be carbon or graphite?

The more I do with the Bedini the more I see that pushing electrons by force into the charging battery does not work when you want to switch batts. If I take it slowly I get much better results. The Bike Wheel only draws 100 mA and charges the secondary battery quite well nonetheless. Perhaps its like sex, doing it slowly is more fun?!

thanks again for the pictures, zott, how did you work out the bearings of the rotor? as far as I can see its supported only at the bottom. do you use two bearings?

Albert

[Ren]

Nice setup Zott.

Albert have you tried pulsing the back end? I am nearly finished my timing wheel for low voltage high uF discharge. I am interested to see how this performs. I found similar results with you on front end experiments.

[zott]

  this is a  rough board drawing  , I will try to draw a more complete schem of the entire setup when I get a day off work ( 12 hour shifts are killer)  I gave an attempt at  the spark gap setup using a spark plug but had no success  getting it to jump even a tight gap.  so I put the plug back into my areal system.   Albert I do use 2 bearings in my rotor support tower,using a 1inch spacer between them. The capacitor bank I use is connected in parralell with the charging battery with a couple of   4007diodes  and a switch on the positive line to release the capacitor  charge into the battery  .I had a reed type switch mounted on top of one of the coils  which was closed by hitting a  lump of dried rubber glue I formed on the top of the rotor at the outer most edge and it worked great ( better than closing the switch by hand every 2 seconds). but the switch cooked  after  a few hours of high speed activation with current flowing.  With the high speed switching going the drag on the rotor was minimal  and it did not seem to use much more power to keep spinning at high speed. I could keep the resistance high on the trigger line and get max power into the  2 inductance lines. . When I had the  switch closed continually  the drag on the motor was a lot higher and I had to lower the resistance on the trigger line to keep the revs up. and this results in lower output on the 2 full bridge lines but it still held at 1.8 to 2 amps .  into the caps and charge batt(with the switch continually closed). the drive line also hogged up about the same amount of power  that the  charge line gave.  so having a fast switch on the pos line from caps to battery seems the way to go - it gave lots of charge and had little effect on the rotor speed. I have a lot more things I want to try , they just keep  popping up in my train of thought  on this thing , but it all takes too long  to put them into motion.  . especially ordering components when your in the middle of  where? " nowhere". I also have a rotoverter built out of 10hp baldor 3 phase motors, and am started on a M.E.G. Which weighs about 50 lbs. man I sure get a lot of exersise with this hobby. and some day I will have enough power to keep the battery banks charged ,so I can quit using the diesel generators to run my off grid mountain homestead..  Well Off to work and thanks for the interest. BY for now.