Bedini replication in Germany

[Ren]

Hi Zott, you could also use an scr inplace of your diodes just before your charge battery. It wont do switch dumping into the batteries for you but will perform better constantly connected than your current configuration. If you dont know how to hook one up post back and I'll draw a simple schematic up. With a scr in place my cap read at least half a volt higher that the charge battery, and that was with one coil, Id imagine yours would be much higher.

If you want to trigger it to dump you probably need to have a timing device, whether electronic or mechanical. Electronic can be tricky, mechanical can be unreliable. Perhaps the simplest form would be a good relay that you can trigger with a small magnet on your timing rotor to close. IF the relay has  a removable cover you can keep the contacts clean and it will last much longer.

[zott]

Sure draw me up an s.c.rectifier, I have a heap of salvaged npn transistors  but not many pnp. would I be able to use any random transistors npn-pnp combination, as long as they are about the same power rating. what exactly will it do for my circuit.  the diodes I had in the circuit were just to keep  power  from the battery  from over amping the cheap switches I was playing with, and from feeding the  capacitors.when I measure the output of my system I am always concerned with the amperage  used and  made and have not put much thought in the voltage strength . I just used volts as a type of fuel guage to tell me how much  battery charge I have used or have left. Do you know of a common easy to buy, fild or scavange oscillator  to build a timing switch from .  555's are  not easily  available here.  I would like to have a mechanical switch setup but have not come across the right  components to fab one up.. actually I would like both just to compare them.  thanks ...fr...rick

[Ren]

Its not easy to get a good mech switch going, Im finding that out too.

You will need a scr, I dont think a transistor will do. SCR's will have the lowest voltage drop across them, or that is what I am told anyway. There is a couple of ways to configure them as seen below. In these configs, the voltage in the cap is usually .5 to 1 volt higher than the charge battery. Ive had good success with a 800v 16 amp scr, I can help you locate some if you like. Also for 555's order them online is easy enough. Let me know if you have any q's

[zott]

well I fiddled with this thing for 6 months or so now and I do not think it will ever put out the amount of power I want to charge my batteries for the cabin   so it will be a conversation piece and  beside the ping pong table .  I just found the exact machine I need to charge my batteries . so I bought one .. It is  6.5 KW  1 cyl   yanmar  china diesel design generator with a brushless alternator.  So   thats  It ,I'm Done  hope you folks have better luck than I did . the loot I blew on this bedini  mag motor gen could have bought me 500 gallons of diesel .. sheesh

[albert]

Stacking Bedini generators for OU results

For my latest experiments I am using my two selfmade Bedini generators. Number one is a three coil setup with a 10 kilogram rotor and trifilar coils. Number two is the classic bike wheel machine, one coil, also trifilar setup.  Both machines are run in solid state mode. They have different amp draws, two identical machines might not work here, one big and one smaller is the way to go.

The first generator is run with a single battery and a relay driven switch. Battery A runs the machine for 30 seconds, and charges a big capacitor. (470.000 farads/10 volts by Philips.) this cap must be able to deliver current of about 250 mA for at least half a minute, the garden variety of cap is not suitable. I mean a BEEG cap obviously.
The switch then puts the cap to the input and the next 30 seconds the cap is drained and recharges the primary battery. This way the first Bedini runs almost without losing energy, I had losses of 1 % of the battery capacity per hour. (7 aH gel cells.)
On the cap we put he input of the second bedini generator. The surplus energy on the cap runs this generator also in solid state mode, and charges a secondary 12 V 7 aH gel cell.
With this setup I had 2 % loss in the primary but more than 20 % gain in the secondary battery during a two hour test run.
If you do not have the big cap, use a dead battery! I happened to have another 7 aH gel cell that would not accept a charge and hover around ten volts. This is more than enough to run the second Bedini machine when it gets topped up every 30 seconds. It won’t drain but it won’t charge either and just serves as a buffer.

For the switch I used a simple timing circuit, store bought. It switches a relay in adjustable intervals between 2 times a second and twelve hours. The timer relay switches 2 other relays whose common contacts are connected to the input and output connectors of the Bedini. The normally open and normally closed contacts are connected crosswise to the cap and Battery A. All three relays have to be on and off at the same time. If you make the mistake, like I did, of switcheing the auxiliary relays in flipflop fashion- one on, one off- you’ll get smoke when you turn off the power supply to the relays. Both will then be in the off position and create a short circuit.
If the output of the machine is protected by neons it will not matter when one of the relays is slightly lagging behind the other. You will get a short flash on the neons but nothing to seriously damage the transistors. Nevertheless I recommend to run these tests while you are around, and not leave the machines on during the night.
The timing of the switch can be set while measuring the voltage at the cap or the dead battery. It should stabilize at certain max/min values after a while and not rise or fall.
With this setup you can see that energy is coming into the system. After some hours the secondary battery will be swapped with the primary, and you will wind up with two fully charged batts….from nothing.