Using Aluminum Multivoid tubes for the Stan Myers system

[hansvonlieven]

G'day JackDaniels,

Interesting concept, For a suitable high voltage generator have a look at this:

http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/hv/hvdcgen/hvdcgen.html

Hans von Lieven

[JackDaniels]

Hey Farrah Day,

I've given up on using salt water as recommended and build a new MMV based system using tap water (NO additives)

Heres my inventory

3 MMV's
3 SS Screws
Wires
9 V battery
Sanwa Multimeter for testing - Its a chinese fake thats available in SEA, any my condo's Maintenance department has one.
Double side sticky tape

------

Assembly. Three MMVs stuck together with double side sticky tape.
SS Screws for transfering electricity
2 Positive MMVs
1 Negative MMV
Image 1 shows it.

DC 9V battery is showing an 8.5V charge (Image 2)
Current is : ? I wish i went for electronics classes (Image 3) I've measured it on the scale on the multimeter set to 0.25 Scale under DCA  - Image 2 is a bit less blury. (Couldnt get a professional photographer - sorry)

Image 4 & 5 show the little that was acheived from the tiny 9V battery.

Let me know your view and I'll go down to a battery guy and have a proper test done with 12V.

Jack

[JackDaniels]

Thinking out Loud again.......

If I were to assume that Stan wasn't and engineer of sorts and didn't have much to know about H2O, Electrons, Ions or having a PHD in physics and electricity etc.... If I were in his place I'd keep things simple.

Given that his videos are from late 70's to early 80's.... i would presume the following.

Use what you have now.

Automobile.
Ignition system, Ignition coil, distributor, spark plugs..... he mentions pulsing... isn't that what the distributor does? Pulses down to the spark plugs? at 600 rpm engine idle speed 4 spark plugs getting power is fairly fast. At 3000 rpm.... that even faster and at 5500 rpm... probably the highest during the period before blowing the engine it would have been at the speed of light.

Did anyone pay attention to Stans Idle RPM? - That would give you your Pulse timing. - PS: What is this motor doing in the image, is that a AC motor running a dynamo to provide DC or something else?

[JackDaniels]

Ran the test throughout the night, couldnt believe the damn battery lasted this long.

OK = Still producing bubbles. Photos in zipped file.

Start 22/12/07

Time 22:48 - OK
TIme 23:06 - OK
Time 23:22 - larger bubble formations clinging to -ve plate
Time 23:40 - Top layer of water cloudy with larger bubbles

Date Change 23/12/07
Time 00:11 - Water still milky, bigger bubbles
Time 00:34 - OK, SS ok, Copper wires not corroded - Photo 1
Time 00:44 - OK - Cleared bubbles to take photo - Photo 2
Time 00:54 - OK - Photo 3 & 4
Time 02:02 - OK - Bigger bubbles - Water turned yellowish - No smell - Photo 5
Time 09:30 - OK - Water yellow & foamy - Rest of photos

Time 9:40 - Removed power source and pulled out mmv's to check for corrosion.

Exterior surfaces seem to maintain anodizing
Internal surfaces darkened in color in comparison to shiny exterior - Not sure if there was a loss of material.
Low quantity Gel like substance formed on outer walls

Water still yellowish with white flakes, no alumina residue at the bottom of the dish

---- your comments on whether the experiment was successful or a failure would be appreciated.

Jack.

[JackDaniels]

Seasons greetings & happy holidays everyone.....

I've still got googly eyes trying to get my little cell to funciton well.

I spent the day today trying to figure out why the water turned yellowish and why I had white/gray flakes in them.

Got the answer and probably a solution too.
The water turned yellowish, because the screws i used werent really SS. So they did end up rusting and the MMV's had a galvanic reaction.

Then on the other hand, the water was going flaky because of the natural impurities, especially since i used direct tap water and not filtered water. Turns out that you could even end up with black flakes if youre using a Activated Carbon water filter.

There's not much i can do about the quality of water, so i'm just going to skip it and not bother using RO water or Ozone water. Don't know if O3 would help!

Now coming to the galvanic reaction caused by aluminum and a not so real SS, I think the answer would be in using Aluminum all the way as a cathode and as an anode without dipping contact leads into the electrolyte. I found a positive progress when i tested it today in another experiment.

So what i came up for a possible design is attached as the image below, get the aluminum all the way out of the electrolyte to the top and keep it seperated by plastic.

Anode Hollows can be filled with 1mm thick stips of Aluminum as Cathotes and vice versa. This way I will be able to optimize bubble formation, both outside as well as in the hollows.

If I were to think about pulsing.... I would use the cells in pairs or trips as independent blocks. That way.... at low speed pulse first three cells as demand goes up activate the next and the last block. I know there is a way of doing that but need to work out the details after i pass this simulation test im head.

If anyone has a reason why using Aluminum as a Cathode and an Anode pose a problem please let me know so I can use time and resources better.

Jack

PS. I noticed that anodizing a marine grade material may not be the best idea as it becomes a bad exchanger.... I've seen a lot more action from the non anodized areas.