Muller Dynamo

[konehead]

Hi Mariu
One more thing, in your circuit you drew up for Khwartz, where and what is that "100ohms"...is that a resistor across the source and gate of 2nd mosfet??
OR is that typo and you meant to say 100uf, and that is the AC cap??
do you  have only one 10K resistor across only the first mosfet as the pull-down resistor??

[konehead]

Hi Khwartz

here is the simple coil-shorting circuit below for a rotor-magnet induced generator coil, this doesnot have the pulse-width adjust to it either to make it simple)  this is not a motor/coil drive circuit....I do not have an output-cirucit for the cap in this, 
but look at the 2nd drawing - this is a backemf/recoil circuit, (also without any pulse-width adjsut to make simple)  for a motor/drive coil  (NOT a coil-shorting cirucit)
and it shows a simple "two stage" output circuit for it to the right in the drawing...same sort of thing should be done with the coil-shorting circuit too - idea is to have capacitor after it fills, be disconnected from the coil when the cap hits load....jsut be sure one is disconnected when other connects and vice versa so cap discharge does not effect anything else in circuit and it is completley isolated....timing and duration are things adjsutable to particular loads and speeds cap sizes, power needed etc etc jsut make sure one part is ON when other is OFF is important thing in the two-stage output circuit...

[mariuscivic]

Hi Konehead!
I have deleted my latest post couse the cap accross the coil was missing. Now is there.
In my present circuit (just like the diagram) i have only 2 resistors: 10K and 100 ohm . Replacing the 10K with 100ohm i have gained more rpm, less current drain and much higher bemf.The cap accross the coil is one from a computer power source and has this written: 684j 250V; this must be 0.68uF.
In the video you can see that when i connect the positive wire to the diode, the curent drain goes up a bit just like the rpm.In this moment the returning charging current is blocked. Now, why is the rotor speeding up? first there is no lenz from those few mA that were going back into the battery and second, this little charge stayes in the AC cap and ''fights'' with the next impulse from the battery. Maybe i am totally wrong but this is how i see it.
When the rotor starts to spin with the AC cap already connected i can see the current drain oscillating 3-4 times up and down until its a constant drop

Now that i have acces to the layers of the coil i've been pumping current to the first 3 layers of the coil( around 0.4A/12V). The other 8 layers were behaving just like the secondary of a transforner. The bemf was so high that i could get a plasma arc around 3mm. But in the end,(since there is no insulation between the layers) the plasma began to discharge between the layers. It was interesting couse i could get 12V 5W light bulb lit about half brightnes with the usual less current drain from the battery. I can not do that any more couse i have no wire left to build another coil with insulation between the layers.

Today i have reduced the current drain to 15.5mA without any change in rpm. I've done this by connecting my big cap(47 000uF) in parralel with the battery. Adding other big caps in paralel tooked the current drain again to 16.5-17mA.(i'm fighting with mA again )

[konehead]

Hi Mariu
OK thanks for the new circuit showing the AC cap...that is crazy with that 100ohm resistor across the 2nd mosfet I dont know how you came up with that idea to put a 100ohm resistaor over there!...if draw goes down and it speeds up and more bemf then nobody can complain about iit eh - but its not nomal the engineers will scream...(ha).....
Few more questions - what is that long black core-thing in your directional coil? Is that long piece of ferrite or iron?
Or it is plastic rod that you wound coil on so your coil is essentially an aircored coil?
Tos stop the burn-out, try some teflon plumbing tape wrapped really tight over each layer of winds....maybe couple layers of it - tis very thin and has very high melting temperature of around 42O farenheit dont know what celsius is....that tape is really cheap any hardware store has it. I figure it also adds in cooling of the coil too like heatsink sort of but that is something I made up...
Also next logical step with the  very nice performance motor coils you have now (besides a driver chip) is to wind them bifilar, or quadfilar, or "septfilar" (6 wires paralella nd connected series-adding) and do this as well as your difrecitonal winds too...
couple other things - Ismael Avioso gve me the idea in aircores, to wind a coil inside the primary/motor/driver coil...and this coil goes in place of where a core would normally be...thats wasted "ambient flux" inside your coil if you have no core...so you may as well pack some winds in there and collect it...Also besides this,  wrap what I call "pickup winds" (secondaries like you did with only using 4 layers as primary) all around the coil too - and dont forget the back-end of the coil;  it should have just as strong as flux as the end hitting the rotor magnets, and this is wasted energy back there so there is another place to wrap some more pikcups/secondaries....
also if wind bifilar, you can make "half" of the bifilar as
secondary too - talk about some tight induciton there eh - maybe trifilars, is better idea (three wires paralell wound) since then you can use two wire sto be the normal series-adding bifilar - which everyone knows to create a stronger magnetic field in a coil - then use the third wire as a pikcup secondary "within" the bifilar...all that done and you pretty much have no wasted energy anywhere - eveything that goes into the coil you get back out and then some.....

finally,  as usual like I always say' "short at peaks" all those pikcup/secondaries for very short instant, and amplify all that power you collect some more...put it all into caps, and pulse caps to a "secondary load"..... 
I got a string of 6 motor coils in series in 3-neo magnet rotor to go negative amps on the meter a few years ago - the coils were some surplus solenoid coils (aircoils - the  cores in them were taken out) these solenoids were made for HV work, and I put 6 of these 49ohm coils in series so the ratio of the voltage input compared to the impedance of the drive coils was something like 25 times...(if 12V input, then around 160ohm coils)...I dont know what happened it seemed the kickback was stronger than the intial  impulse combined with the inudtio of the rotor magnets and the kickback sort of dominated the situation - when the ammtere went negative .02Amps,  the timing of it  wasnt where the motor went the fastest - it was where the motor as a bit slower than where  you would think it should be at....I used commutator of brush and roller-bearings packed with bit electrical grease....so the commutator was super low friciton... anywasy the shaft had hardly any power but it was something to see not that exciting it was really slow...here is link of photos about this motor:
http://sites.google.com/site/alternativeworldenergy/negative-current-small-pulse-motor

[mariuscivic]

Hi konehead
The long core behind the driving coil is ferite. The longer the core, (the higher the inductance ) more curent returning to the battery but this creates drag too. This little toy is very sensitive to anything that i might change. Just by adding another coil with ferite will slow down a bit the rotor.
Now i have found some more pieces of wire and i'll try to make another coil with insulation bettwen the layers.