Muller Dynamo

[konehead]

Hi all
I finally got video of  speed up from the MOTOR/DRIVE coils having backing magnets behind them - it goes  from 610rpm without, to 1500rpm with...draw goes up a bit but adjusting the pulse width would fix that easy and make it run with less draw too.
Marisuvic - this is what I mean to slip a stack of ring-magnets on those long ferrite cores in your test machine to at least double the speed of it
please ignore stupid advertising banner it goes away then comes back later..this  was filmed over a vdieo tape of  high school soccer game (football to some of you)  already in the videocamera - the game creeps in from camera glitch, but you can still see the ammeter at around 130ma
http://youtu.be/jlgEaZ8Ppc0
type in MrDKONZEN on youtube if this doesnt work and it is on list there

[crazycut06]

Hi all
I finally got video of  speed up from the MOTOR/DRIVE coils having backing magnets behind them - it goes  from 610rpm without, to 1500rpm with...draw goes up a bit but adjusting the pulse width would fix that easy and make it run with less draw too.
Marisuvic - this is what I mean to slip a stack of ring-magnets on those long ferrite cores in your test machine to at least double the speed of it
please ignore stupid advertising banner it goes away then comes back later..this  was filmed over a vdieo tape of  high school soccer game (football to some of you)  already in the videocamera - the game creeps in from camera glitch, but you can still see the ammeter at around 130ma
http://youtu.be/jlgEaZ8Ppc0
type in MrDKONZEN on youtube if this doesnt work and it is on list there

Hi konehead,
        Nice video showing huge speed up, with backing magnets, are you using hall circuit for your timing, and why is your amp draw so low? is this because of your coil? creepy glitch you got there...

[crazycut06]

Dont know if I had posted this here before. But concerning bearings....  My vids

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSTfFIetYPY    Using graphite

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiGjK3P7JBY    Rotor rundown pt1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVXtRSxm73g    Rotor rundown pt2

The second and third vids are 2 parts of a rotor rundown from 1200 rpm. Took longer than 10min, which YT had that time limit on the vids back then.

Notice the time it takes the rotor to slow down in the last few min of pt2..   
Sick slickness. 

Mags

Hi Mags,
         Love to have those graphite bearings sooo slick! makes me cry!   lol...

[mariuscivic]

Interesting video Konehead!
I tryed this with my setup but wherever i put the magnets, they affect the hall sensor. It doesnt apply to your setup couse you have the sensor above.
I have also tryed to see if there is some gain in the gen coil with the backing magnet without affecting the rpm or input power. I have discovered that when the washers are ALL in place , there seems to be some small gain in output and rpm with a load connected. I have tryed this only on one single coil. Without the all washers in place, the hall is affected. I'm bulding new coils (300 turns 0.3mm wire) to put them to work together as they should

[Scorch]

I'm not a big fan of thrust bearings either, for this type of application, so I will simply run in an upright position with horizontal shaft.
And, yes, depending on what I'm doing I might be inclined to change the lube in the bearings.
And my lube of choice would be "Lubrilon" see: www.lubrilon.com

It's the same formula that USED to be in "Slick 50" before there was a controversy between the manufacturer and the inventor of the formula.
This is the same stuff that has been tested by treating the engine then draining the oil and continuing to run the engine on the road.
It actually creates a molecular bonded layer on steel parts that can only be removed by grinding it off.

}:>

Hi Scorch
I'm not big fan of thrust-beaings on vertical rotating stuff  unless there is quite a bit  of weight to the the rotor, then for sure  thrust bearings should be used... 
There are skateboard/rollerblade bearings in the test machine I put videos up of, and didnt crack open the seals and put in any special lube in these like I normally will do.
The clacking noise is the threaded SS axle not tight with the bearing on top and so the slop is making the noise.
Skateboard beaing are made to handle extreme lateral pressures, since skateboarders and rollerbladers are always doing turns so they work very well in vertical fairly lightweight machines like this, infact probably better than most thrust bearing designs of similar size. (my opinion only not fact)
Best lube in the world is "protecta" (fact not opinon) - its teflon-based works super great:
https://www.sfrcorp.com/product/protecta-precision-oiler/
they sell it in spray cans too