Muller Dynamo

[crazycut06]

The unit is fully assembled and have done a preliminary test run and already discovering several issues that need to be addressed.
High resolution image here:
http://www.rodscontracts.ws/images/projects/muller/NewDynamoBuilt.png

#1 Rotor is pretty wobbly (not flat) and will probably have to be replaced.
This has always been an issue for me. Not sure why the material always seems to be a little warped and may need to upgrade to a laminate.

#2 Cam is not perfectly true so not 'firing' consistently.

#3 Switch contacts are actually holding up pretty well but there appears to be an issue with 'bounce'.
The ignition cam is actually designed to use ignition points which utilize a very strong spring and my idea of using such a cam, and simple switch, may not be as easy as I had hoped.

#4 While running on just one coil pair, at 12 volts, current draw is pretty high, around 700ma, this is not good and coils getting hot.
Still need to see how this might change with ferrite cores.

I may decide to abandon mechanical switching and move to hall effect or optical sensors.
I was trying to avoid this, and keep it simple, but it may, actually, become simpler to use electronics versus all the physical challenges such as the need for an absolutely perfect cam and specialized switch or commutator.

It may be awhile before I have anything else to report.

}:>

Hi Scorch,
Imho, Better to use electronic switching using optical or hall sensors, much more efficient than mechanical switching, also much easier to get perfect adjustments, check out how konehead mounts his timing disc... Keep it up!


Regards
Cc

[plengo]

The unit is fully assembled and have done a preliminary test run and already discovering several issues that need to be addressed.
High resolution image here:
http://www.rodscontracts.ws/images/projects/muller/NewDynamoBuilt.png

#1 Rotor is pretty wobbly (not flat) and will probably have to be replaced.
This has always been an issue for me. Not sure why the material always seems to be a little warped and may need to upgrade to a laminate.

#2 Cam is not perfectly true so not 'firing' consistently.

#3 Switch contacts are actually holding up pretty well but there appears to be an issue with 'bounce'.
The ignition cam is actually designed to use ignition points which utilize a very strong spring and my idea of using such a cam, and simple switch, may not be as easy as I had hoped.

#4 While running on just one coil pair, at 12 volts, current draw is pretty high, around 700ma, this is not good and coils getting hot.
Still need to see how this might change with ferrite cores.

I may decide to abandon mechanical switching and move to hall effect or optical sensors.
I was trying to avoid this, and keep it simple, but it may, actually, become simpler to use electronics versus all the physical challenges such as the need for an absolutely perfect cam and specialized switch or commutator.

It may be awhile before I have anything else to report.

}:>

Beautiful work. Good job.


I highly advice you (since you are doing such an amazing work) to switch using hall sensors and Arduino. I can make for you (for free) a switching program for Arduino. It is much easier to test the timing and play with it.


In your case your coils are heating up because the time ON of the coils are too long and too much power is wasted into heat and locking the speed of rotation.


It is a little intimidating with Arduino at first but it is just an illusion. You can get it running in a night easily by just reading the manual that comes with it, build a pulser using the hall sensor and get this motor spinning very fast.


Fausto.

[Scorch]

Thank you, Plengo, for the offer to donate your services. I just might have to accept your offer and maybe donate something in return.
I am hoping to help ZFF by offering a donation to him and, hopefully, he might be willing to donate one, or two, replications of his Arduino controller with analog adjustment pots.
But he hasn't been responding to my email, or YT message, so I may accept your offer to help me build my own.
I can build them but could use the extra assistance. And I may consider using them in conjunction with optical sensors versus hall sensors.

I do understand what you mean regarding to much on time.
And if I had a PROPER mechanical switch, for the job, I could adjust this.
But I am reaching the conclusion that, sometimes, more complicated is simpler . . .

The 6mm ferrite cores have arrived and I also obtained some more stator plate disks.
So I plan to set aside the air core assemblies and drill a new set of stator plates with ferrite cores.
This is becoming easier to build and more professional looking with each replication.
Probably take less than an hour to set up and drill another set of stator plates once I get around to it.
And if I don't hear from ZFF soon; I will enlist your help with Arduino controllers and would sure like to set them up with analog adjusting screws.
Do I even need two controllers? Can one controller be configured for two coil pairs?

This is just one of many projects I have on my table including major over-haul work on a diesel step van, GEET fuel processor, other hobbies and, of course, regular job work and house work. . .

PS:
Already had another, minor, issue with the current build.
The double sided mounting tape not holding the terminal blocks very well because that particular terminal block brand (WECO) is not flat on the bottom ("standoff" style) therefore not much contact area for the mounting tape.
But I did obtain a different brand (Altech), which is flat on the bottom, and will use these for the next build.

That is all for now.

Thank you again.

}:>

Beautiful work. Good job.


I highly advice you (since you are doing such an amazing work) to switch using hall sensors and Arduino. I can make for you (for free) a switching program for Arduino. It is much easier to test the timing and play with it.


In your case your coils are heating up because the time ON of the coils are too long and too much power is wasted into heat and locking the speed of rotation.


It is a little intimidating with Arduino at first but it is just an illusion. You can get it running in a night easily by just reading the manual that comes with it, build a pulser using the hall sensor and get this motor spinning very fast.


Fausto.

[plengo]

Thank you, Plengo, for the offer to donate your services. I just might have to accept your offer and maybe donate something in return.
I am hoping to help ZFF by offering a donation to him and, hopefully, he might be willing to donate one, or two, replications of his Arduino controller with analog adjustment pots.
But he hasn't been responding to my email, or YT message, so I may accept your offer to help me build my own.
I can build them but could use the extra assistance. And I may consider using them in conjunction with optical sensors versus hall sensors.

I do understand what you mean regarding to much on time.
And if I had a PROPER mechanical switch, for the job, I could adjust this.
But I am reaching the conclusion that, sometimes, more complicated is simpler . . .

The 6mm ferrite cores have arrived and I also obtained some more stator plate disks.
So I plan to set aside the air core assemblies and drill a new set of stator plates with ferrite cores.
This is becoming easier to build and more professional looking with each replication.
Probably take less than an hour to set up and drill another set of stator plates once I get around to it.
And if I don't hear from ZFF soon; I will enlist your help with Arduino controllers and would sure like to set them up with analog adjusting screws.
Do I even need two controllers? Can one controller be configured for two coil pairs?

This is just one of many projects I have on my table including major over-haul work on a diesel step van, GEET fuel processor, other hobbies and, of course, regular job work and house work. . .

PS:
Already had another, minor, issue with the current build.
The double sided mounting tape not holding the terminal blocks very well because that particular terminal block brand (WECO) is not flat on the bottom ("standoff" style) therefore not much contact area for the mounting tape.
But I did obtain a different brand (Altech), which is flat on the bottom, and will use these for the next build.

That is all for now.

Thank you again.

}:>

Sure no problem. I am not an expert in Arduino but one can become one in no time. I am a good programmer and there is lots of info on the net on how to do things with it.


You only need ONE arduino to control many things. It comes with I think 8 ports so that one can connect 8 things to it plus the other ports that are analog so we could control voltage/current readings and do things.


I highly advice you to buy two videos from Peter Lindenman ([size=78%]http://advancedmotorsecrets.com/[/size]  and [size=78%]http://magneticenergysecrets.com/[/size]). They are very cheap ($17) and they will teach you a lot about this particular motor you are building. They are not talking about Muller but about the interaction of Magnetic fields and the energy that can be harnessed.


I have not been working with my RomeroUK/Muller for a little while but still have my motor. I have been thinking a lot about what should be my next step in to this motor with those new understandings from those two videos.


Actually they led me to studying very carefully works from Eric Dollar, Tesla (off course) and Charles Steinmetz ([size=78%]https://play.google.com/store/books/details/Charles_Proteus_Steinmetz_Elementary_lectures_on_e?id=PgQ_AAAAYAAJ&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwyLDEsImJvb2stUGdRX0FBQUFZQUFKIl0.[/size]).


It is very interesting to see that one can understand how possibly RomeroUK motor worked (if it worked in reality). A good build is a must and you already have it.


Arduino will give you the power to control many other things that, if done mechanically, would take you years.

Fausto.

[Scorch]

Thank you for the update and the video links. I will take this into consideration.

I think the next step is obvious; build another layer with another rotor and two more stator plates.

If it's already already possible to operate this, at high rpm, on just one, or two, coil pairs, with little, or no, Lenz effect, then go ahead and throw in another rotor on the same shaft and two more stator plates with 18 more generator coils.

For those of you who are close to a self runner, this may be all that is needed to obtain the desired effect.
Should be able to do it with the same two bearings and just a longer shaft.

}:>

Sure no problem. I am not an expert in Arduino but one can become one in no time. I am a good programmer and there is lots of info on the net on how to do things with it.


You only need ONE arduino to control many things. It comes with I think 8 ports so that one can connect 8 things to it plus the other ports that are analog so we could control voltage/current readings and do things.


I highly advice you to buy two videos from Peter Lindenman ([size=78%]http://advancedmotorsecrets.com/[/size]  and [size=78%]http://magneticenergysecrets.com/[/size]). They are very cheap ($17) and they will teach you a lot about this particular motor you are building. They are not talking about Muller but about the interaction of Magnetic fields and the energy that can be harnessed.


I have not been working with my RomeroUK/Muller for a little while but still have my motor. I have been thinking a lot about what should be my next step in to this motor with those new understandings from those two videos.


Actually they led me to studying very carefully works from Eric Dollar, Tesla (off course) and Charles Steinmetz ([size=78%]https://play.google.com/store/books/details/Charles_Proteus_Steinmetz_Elementary_lectures_on_e?id=PgQ_AAAAYAAJ&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwyLDEsImJvb2stUGdRX0FBQUFZQUFKIl0.[/size]).


It is very interesting to see that one can understand how possibly RomeroUK motor worked (if it worked in reality). A good build is a must and you already have it.


Arduino will give you the power to control many other things that, if done mechanically, would take you years.

Fausto.