Power ratio over one

[gyulasun]

Hi David,

While I agree with Stefan reasonings, I have to draw attention to his modified schematics.  Namely, the maximum voltage ratings of the full wave bridge and the electrolytic capacitor must be increased.  I indicated 50V for the bridge and 35V for the puffer capacitor in MY drawings because I placed them AFTER the secondary of a down-transformator. 

NOW that Stefan left out the transformator to help show you how he means the DC test, you have to use a bridge of at least 100V or higher ratings and electrolytic capacitor of at least 160V ratings to remain on the safe side if your generator coils still produce 60-70V peak AC output voltages. Because the unloaded DC voltage will be around 80-120V at least that gets stored in the capacitor at your normal 2-3Hz switching rate, this is what you can expect at least.  And measure it of course to know it for sure, before you connect the LEDs, so that you could prepare for the number of LEDs in series (if you use less than what would be needed, you may easily end up with burnt-out LEDs).

rgds, Gyula

[hartiberlin]

Yes, Gyula, you are right.
Many thanks for the hints.
And David, just put in series with the LED chain
at least a resistor of
10 to 100 Ohm,so this will
reduce the current through the LEDs.

[wattsup]

@HG

Here attached is my first proposed wiring diagram as Self-Runner 1. I hope it is not too involved. By also using the N/C contacts and three capacitors of unknown value (at this stage) here's what would happen. First the micro contact arms may have to be readjusted.

Basically, while the gen magnet is in movement, cap #1 would get charged. When the swing rises at position #1, cap 1 discharges into cap 3. And cap 2 discharges into the drive coil. 

Then, while the gen magnet is in movement, cap #1 would get charged again. When the swing rises at position #2, cap 1 discharges into cap 2. And cap 3 discharges into the drive coil.

Others may have some valid additions or changes to this diagram that I can modify later, but in general, I'm trying to figure out a way that you can do this without a transformer or diodes that may consume more juice. I mean you may be producing 60 or so volts but the amperage is very very low.

I know it looks maybe complicated but just follow the colored wires and you should be able to try this easily.

You'd need input on the cap values from some of the better EEers. I think you would need non-polarized caps but I could be wrong.

To start it up you will need to swing it manually.

[hartiberlin]

Hi Wattsup,
do you also have a normal circuit diagram ?
Then it would get clearer.
Many thanks in advance.

Regards, Stefan.

[handyguy1]

Hay Stefan:
I did the spin test wrong. I should have increased the number of LEDs in the circuit. If the LED voltage requirements are lower than the coils output there is a resistance. So, when I spun the magnets the voltage goes up and I feel that resistance. I will try again with more LEDs in the circuit.

Your drawing in post #159 is what I was talking about, when I said that I can charge a cap, without slowing down the device. I get 60ish-volts measuring the cap. The first couple of cycles are slow, but the speed picks up after a few volts are in the cap. I can hook the LEDs to the cap (200-volt 220uF-470uF) (before I charge the cap) and it lights the LEDs nicely.
As Gyula recommends, I need to pick up a higher rated bridge, and see what difference that makes.

Wattsup?s idea looks real good. I need to  pick up a few more connections to fit the switches. Wattsup, great job on your schematic, and reasoning!

David