Working Magnetic Motor on you tube??

[dean_mcgowan]

Hi guys,

Great work to everyone who has attempted to replicate this device! and best of luck to those who continue their research.

I feel the need to post on this subject as this motor is one of the more interesting that i have seen in a long time. forgive me, i only had the stamina to read through the first 150 posts or so.. so if im repeating anything, i appologize. This is quite a lot to say, but here goes::


I am going to discuss the operation of this device rather than its specifications. You guys seem to be caught up with the technical side of this project, which is great dont get me wrong here, but i think we're putting too much emphasis on dimensions, and what types of magnets to use, ect.

There are a few key things that are necesary, but size and shape of the magnets and rotors/stator is a  petty formality. 

1) the rotating stator magnet  must be magnetized concentrically, this means not though the center but from side to side of the circle/cylinder magnet, so that one half of the rounded surface is N, the other half is S.
[why magnet singular? ref.  the first part of post # 77, on pg 6, posted by Robbie47 everyone seemed to have missed that]

2) the rotor magnets must be magnetized horizontally, length is not important, except that it should be equal to or greater than the diameter of the stator magnet.

the orientation of the rotor magnets is what determines the operating speed, ignore the difference in size on the black marks, those are just paint to mark the N/S. (black is S). they are are not the same direction, which is one of your "adjustable" factors. I am quite certain a desired RPM could be achieved., but im not going to get into that here. To make the device work, theres really only one thing that you have to do:

1 ) When rotating the device in gear-mode [ meaning when you turn rotor with your finger the stator rotates in a magnetic coupling] the stator must rotate proportionately to the rotor by a factor of the number of "drive" magnets in the system.  "whats a drive magnet?" - well, simply put, a drive magnet is a magnet which when it passes the stator - is operating with the stator to push both along in the direction of rotation. The two gear off of each other like a spring, as the like poles approach, the flux is compressed, and instead of pushing against the rotation, its pushing outward on the circular surface causing more rotation.

The "reversed" magnets perform an RPM limiting function ( the MKJD's actually perform another function, relative to RPM, and can be made of any conductive (non-magnetic) rods). The reversed magnets play an important role - positioning of the stator magnet so that the drive magnet pushes off of it as they pass one another. This causes the device to accellerate to, and is one of the factors that affects it's oparating-RPM.
I am not sure why the alleged creators of this device attempted to mislead everyone with their theories on locking the magnetic forces and the magneto kenetic b.s. dampener... its garbage - the rods are necessary, and can be made of copper, aluminum, titanium, gold, silver, platinum, or a few non-magnetic alloys.
their thickness is less important as their position, but you can fine tune them after you get the device operating. They should be as tall as the rotor magnets that pass it, but can be taller.
[ For the physics buffs, if you would like to know the real purpose of these rods PM me]


The device can be adjusted to allow it to operate with "almost" any size/dimensions you may have constructed your device out of, or plan to.

1) the size of the physical rotor is irrelevant. the "rotor diameter" you are concerned with is the octagon (or whatever # of magnets you use) which can be changed by bringing the magnets closer to or further away from the center of rotation. This is one of the ways you can adjust it to obtain the proper proportion of rotation between the 2 rotating wheels.

2) another other is the configuration of the reversed rotor magnets (which effects RPM as well)

3) The distance between the rotor and stator can be adjusted to change the Torque.

Adjusting the device: 

Thankfullly you can adjust it in gear-mode. because adjusting a non-operating device, or forcing the device to operated unsynchronized is an impossibility either way you look at it.

Choose your direction: - the direction you want the device to rotate. (an equal # of "drive" magnets and "reversed" magnets, i believe will allow it to operate in either direction but this is pure conjecture at this point).

1) give the rotor a spin, not too slow, but not so fast that you cant see what its doing. If you used the original design for your replication, then they are using 4 drive magnets and 4 reversed magnets [* if your design is different then make note of the proportionality of rotation mentioned above]. which means there is a rotational speed of 1 to 4. The RPM measuring tool in the video seems to have been slightly innacurate, perhaps was user error or interference from the lighting.

Now, adjust the device so that the stator magnet turns 4 times per rotation of the rotor. Once you get it spinning at (or close to) 1:4, starting the device is just a matter of synchronizing the two wheels at the "push" moment of one of the drive magnets.

The original video show the device operating under a (very small) load-  the two unnecessary rotors operating conversely. These could have been part of another design as its creators claim, but i suspect its more hooplah to throw people off.  you only need the rotor and the interacting stator. I suppose you could add multiple stators as the device in the video had, but i have no idea how one would go about synchronizing the other two while the device is operating, so my only guess at that would be somehow start all 3 at once? pull cord perhaps... anyhow that's the synapsis.

Keep up the good work guys, dont give up. Think about what ive said here and try not to indulge too much into the multiple acts of distortion this wonderful device has been subjected to.

By the way if there's anything i forgot to touch on, or something you may need a deeper understanding of, just let me know. 

PS:
As i was about to submit this post my roommate urges me to give further explanation of the MKJDBS......

Magneto Kenetic Jensen Damper B.S. ::: [AKA: Induction Rod - for flux deflation]
when the magnets move at a slow speed the field domains are discrete. Identicle to the original field, just moving.  As the speed increases the field expands proportionately, # of lines of flux stays the same, but Teslas decrease as a function of # of lines of flux in a given space, which results in a break-down of the devices function at high RPM's. The induction rods collapse the flux back to its original position around the magnet as it approaches the stator. These rods allow the device to continue steady operation without going out of synch as the device approaches (or exceeds) the terminal velocity of the flux range. They are not necessary on a low RPM device, and the terminal velocity has too many factors for me to determine what that is, aside from discovering it for particular device your have built. i assume in the future we will be able to further fine-tune the device by making our induction rods a specific size for our design and .

I suggest you have your room mate pack you another one smoky and toke that one down .. i will look forward to hearing what gibberish you come up with next .. are you related to Bearden by any chance ?

[zapnic]

this look cool
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_43fb2Kf3M

[sm0ky2]

i cant understand a word hes saying, but the video says enough. i like the spring idea to "reset" the stator.

[sm0ky2]

Zero gives an awesome demonstration of this, with a bit different design, check this out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHy_OeS8qVE&feature=related

he has a bit of a critic's take on the subject, but the interaction of the rotor/stator is the same showing that this can be varied to virtually any degree.

[FunkyJive]

So we need concentrically-magnetised stators, not diametrically-magnetised? I did try finding magnets with one pole on the inside and an opposite pole that ran all the way around the outside, but no joy. Can anyone suggest a supplier please?

And if we're using diametrically-magnetised rotor magnets then that's probably where we're all going wrong. So... why could no-one come right out and say this before I headed out and bought a bucket load of diametrically-magnetised bars for the rotor and painted them black one end?

Incidentally, as my rotor is 19 inches across and hard to turn, could this be something to do with the car wheel bearing I used and will this stop the motor from working? (thanks in advance).



FunkyJive