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Overunity Machines Forum



Working Magnetic Motor on you tube??

Started by Craigy, January 04, 2008, 04:11:39 PM

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vipond50

#1795
January 26, 2008, 12:08:34 AM
Quote from: Bruce_TPU on January 25, 2008, 11:47:52 PM
Hello All,

Well, the good news (for a moment!  LOL)  Was that my machined parts came in.  I put it all together, and started to look for some of the things I had seen on my self built wooden one. 

I notice that my stator magnets simply stuttered as I rev'd up the rotor.  And then I measured the distance from edge of Stator, to edge of rotor.  Distance was 8 mm.  It should be 5 mm.

To make a long story short, they cut Hanks, Jason's and my rotor 3/8" short.  Go figure!   :(

Hank is going to have him recut and resend our proper sized one.

The base is correct, and my stators are great.  N35 magnets.  Bearings for the stators are super precision ABEC 7's.  Very nice feel to them.  Dual rotor bearings, very nice.

Concerned about slippage where the delprin slip over the stator bearing.  But I will wait for new rotor before addressing that. 

So we wait another few days.   ;)

Cheers,

Bruce
Nice rig Bruce, really to bad they muffed the rotor Dee's. Hoping for success for all.

Take Care
Bill

Bruce_TPU

#1796
January 26, 2008, 12:25:16 AM
Quote from: crash_uni8 on January 26, 2008, 12:06:33 AM
@Bruce_TPU

i hate to bother you but could you post a picture of one of your stators....or explain how they are put together
ive been having the worst time figuring out how to make them.... :-[

Hey Crash,

Base is threaded for 4-40.  I use a 1" 4-40 brass screw through the ABEC 7 bearing.  The head holds the inner race of the bearing firm.  A brass nut goes on the other side of the bearing and is tightened.

This then is screwed into the threaded base, until the brass nut contacts the top of the base.

The circular N42 magnet is glued inside of my delpin holder (Great Job on that Hank!) This then is placed on the bearing, which fits snugly into the bottom of the Delprin. 

JDO300 has drawings that show that part.  If someone could put together an assembly diagram, that would probably help some of the replicators, as well.

I hope that helps!  (If I had DSL, I would post lots of pics to assist.  It just takes too long with my dial up)

@ Bill
Thanks.  I too hope for success.  I really think N35's or N38's with better (not heavier) bearings should help.  Have you had any more time to test?

Cheers,

Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

Mr.Entropy

#1797
January 26, 2008, 12:35:38 AM
Quote from: niente on January 25, 2008, 03:08:48 PM
Here's a simple analysis (by using FEMM) of the torque of the rotor covering 45 degrees of the motion (then it repeats itself because of the symmetry).
[...]

Your boundary is way too close for FEMM to give you accurate torque readings.  I think you'll find that the extra torque disappears when you move it far away.

Thanks for providing the source, though!

Cheers,

Mr. Entropy

Bruce_TPU

#1798
January 26, 2008, 01:30:09 AM
OK, I just ordered some 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy, from:
http://www.discountsteel.com/index.cfm/go/main.itemDisplay/itemID/54.htm

I believe that the softer, pure aluminum bar from Home Depot, will dampen too much, (excess of eddy currents, too much braking applied).  The alloy has not just Teflon, but also copper in it's composition.  So the braking effect will be identical as with Al's setup. 

I believe that Sean's test will show a longer run time with the alloy.  (even if not by much, for the wind down test.)

Cheers,

Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

vipond50

#1799
January 26, 2008, 02:05:10 AM
Quote from: Bruce_TPU on January 26, 2008, 12:25:16 AM
Quote from: crash_uni8 on January 26, 2008, 12:06:33 AM
@Bruce_TPU

i hate to bother you but could you post a picture of one of your stators....or explain how they are put together
ive been having the worst time figuring out how to make them.... :-[

Hey Crash,

Base is threaded for 4-40.  I use a 1" 4-40 brass screw through the ABEC 7 bearing.  The head holds the inner race of the bearing firm.  A brass nut goes on the other side of the bearing and is tightened.

This then is screwed into the threaded base, until the brass nut contacts the top of the base.

The circular N42 magnet is glued inside of my delpin holder (Great Job on that Hank!) This then is placed on the bearing, which fits snugly into the bottom of the Delprin. 

JDO300 has drawings that show that part.  If someone could put together an assembly diagram, that would probably help some of the replicators, as well.

I hope that helps!  (If I had DSL, I would post lots of pics to assist.  It just takes too long with my dial up)

@ Bill
Thanks.  I too hope for success.  I really think N35's or N38's with better (not heavier) bearings should help.  Have you had any more time to test?

Cheers,

Bruce
@Bruce

In the middle of a New rig with different Mea's for the radius, of coarse it is base off Al's spec's, So when the time comes we'll see. I'll post  the data regardless of the out come.
Also waiting on parts too ........

HI Ho, Hi Ho off to watch a Movie I go

Later Bill
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