Thane Heins Perepiteia.

[Kator01]

Hey Thane,

these fiddlers are great, I like this.

Well, concernig your proposal of starting a new thread : Who would moderate this ?
Usually I would only moderate a topic I am involved in on a practical side, meaning that I would explore this topic practically - building the electronics myself etc.
Here a person must have some experience in this old-fashioned design.

But this is not possible at that time as I have to look for new project-work in my field of business (it-consultant ).

I will focus on involving some very well versed professionels in your findings - especiallly the implementaion or better integration of your coil-setup in the old magneto-technique.

There is another document I will upload here in the file-section which could be a good starting-point for whoever dares to get involved into this saturable-reactor-thingy.

Look for the file named : "MagneticAmplifiersPrinciplesAndApplications1960.pdf"

The role here- as i experience this here over the last months - is a bit different, thane, its hard to explain.
I am connecting dots and doing basic research.

Regards

Kator






and co

[i_ron]

@ iRon,

I have a couple of extra MOT's that I can give you for free, if you are interested. ( I seem to recall you live near Coquitlam.)
All windings are fully functional, but you can use them just for the cores if you wish.
Just let me know if you want them.

That would be great derricka... only problem is I am over on the Island, Victoria to be exact.
Not over to the big island very often but if you are over this way or know someone who is coming over?

Thanks,  Ron 

[i_ron]

KEEP IT IF YOU THINK YOU WANT TO MAKE IT BETTER.

CHEERS
T

I am disappointed, I was trying to twist your crank and you never went for the bait, I must be slipping!

Good news on the Lexan success.  In the new LV catalog they show just what I was on about...
Magnets with a plastic surround, See, the OD is 1 1/4". I wouldn't recommend these though as
the magnet is only 15/16ths AND THEY HAVE A HOLE right through them... if you use a STEEL
bolt through this type of magnet you effectively SHORT out the flux, right?  I hope you didn't use
a steel bolt on the KJ magnets... you have to use a non magnetic stainless steel bolt. You could
use a brass bolt but your strength is way down and doesn't compare in strength with Grade 8
Allen bolts that I will be using on the "cup has the counter bevel" model.

This is from the January 2009 Lee Valley catalog... if you look closely you can just make out the
magnet, a plastic ring, then the steel cup. In the old style, which unfortunately I have ordered for
you because thats what you have been using, the cup comes right up the side of the magnet and
acts as a short.

Ron

[CRANKYpants]

I am disappointed, I was trying to twist your crank and you never went for the bait, I must be slipping!

YOU ARE NOT SLIPPING - SINCE I AM HAVING ANOTHER STEEL ROTOR WELDED AS WELL - SO NOW I WILL BE TESTING;

OLD STEEL ROTOR
YOUR NEW I_MANAL ULTRA BALANCED STEEL ROTOR
LEXAN ROTOR
LEXAN MONO-POLE ROTOR

Good news on the Lexan success.  In the new LV catalog they show just what I was on about...
Magnets with a plastic surround, See, the OD is 1 1/4". I wouldn't recommend these though as
the magnet is only 15/16ths AND THEY HAVE A HOLE right through them... if you use a STEEL
bolt through this type of magnet you effectively SHORT out the flux, right? 

YOUR THEORY COMES UP A BIT "SHORT"
I BOUGHT SOME OF THESE AND THEY WORK FINE AND YOU DON'T SHORT OUT THE FLUX YOU INTENSIFY IT'S STRENGTH WITH A STEEL BOLT. THOSE MAGNETS HAVE A PULL STRENGTH OF OVER 60 LBS WITH THE CUPS AND AROUND 30 WITHOUT. ALL THAT BEING SAID I STILL USED STAINLESS STEEL #10 BOLTS BECAUSE THEY ARE EASIER TO DEAL WITH.

This is from the January 2009 Lee Valley catalog... if you look closely you can just make out the magnet, a plastic ring, then the steel cup. In the old style, which unfortunately I have ordered for you because thats what you have been using, the cup comes right up the side of the magnet and acts as a short.

Ron

THE MAIN PROBLEM WITH THESE MAGNETS IS THEY ARE ALL MOUNTED THE SAME WAY IN THE CUPS - I.E ALL NORTH POLES SO YOU CAN'T GET AC WITH THEM.

I NEED TO GO BACK TO AND FOLLOW THE TRIED AND TRUE FORMULA OF CHANGING ONE PARAMETER AT A TIME SO SAME STEEL ROTOR WITH WORKING MOT CORE, THEN NEW CORE MATERIAL AND SO ON.

THEN WHEN YOUR ROTOR GETS HERE I WILL HAVE A GOOD IDEA OF WHAT WORKS AND WHAT DOESN'T.

T

[i_ron]

THE MAIN PROBLEM WITH THESE MAGNETS IS THEY ARE ALL MOUNTED THE SAME WAY IN THE CUPS - I.E ALL NORTH POLES SO YOU CAN'T GET AC WITH THEM.

T

It was a lesson in what a "proper" cup looked like. Yes the holding strength is increased but you are
not after holding strength. You want a maximum flux transfer to the coil core. This does not happen
if the sides of the cup are in contact with the magnet. All I was saying is, this is how I build my cups...and lee vee has 'finally' caught on as to how to build a proper cup!

Here is a pic of progress, your rotor is the ugly one, mine is shown on top... with the home made
cups. The magnet with the plastic around is from the old rotor and is too long for these single
magnet cups. I have to make new plastic rings yet and drill extraction holes through the rotor and
cup...It is static balanced and might even get to give it a run up today... no coil core for it yet either.

Ron