Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[Localjoe]

@all
  here is a link to the store that sells the cotton tubing for use on the primary bare copper wire, i know i posted this a million times but i saw folks asking again.
                            http://www.diyaudiostore.com/
                                                                                       Joe


the bare copper peice in a romex 12 G wire should slip through that nicely  im contiplating getting a fatter grade of copper like 10 or 8 tho the readigns seem to increase the most with the addition of the copper mass as opposed to the iron mass.

[storre]

@andy

I was thinking today if it would be better to use stranded copper wire. I know it would be harder to slip through the silk or cotton tubing but make the increased surface area would increase the galvanic response? Do you think it would? Sort of like the difference between a car battery and a deep cycle battery allowing quicker bursts of higher amperage.

[mthompson]

@mthompson
The way I see the patent. The 2 10 wires are one copper end and one iron end. Is that how you understand it? In that case I would think the make and break would go between terminals 5 and 6. In other words 5-10 is a copper wire and 6-10 is the iron wire.

It's just a very long skinny battery with plates (wires) very long submerged in an electrolyte. That is why it doesn't make since to mess with the 2 ends of the plates (wires). I started to visualize it like a car battery that has a special switch between the terminals (5 and 6) such that when the switch closes and immediately opens and closes again. Repeatedly shorting out the battery 100s of times per second. If these long plates are wound in a coil wouldn't the repeated opening and closing of the circuit create the electromagnetic field which would then be used to operate the reed switch so that closing it opens it which closes it etc. Maybe you are explaining it that way but I got confused when you said to connect the external circuit to the 2 10s. The ext circuit you are referring to is the reed switch?

Much of the confusion lies in Stubblefield's nomenclature (naming procedure). He referred to the copper coil wire as 5, and the iron coil wire as 6. He then referred to the copper and iron ends of the coils where the coil wrap began, as 10. Later he seemed to referred to the copper and iron ends where the coil wraps finished as 5 and 6. One of the best things you all could do would be to agree on a new improved naming convention for these basically simple items so they can be easily referred to. I suggested 5a and 6a be substituted for 10; and that 5b and 6b be substituted for the reference to the 5 and 6 ends at the finish of the coil wraps. jeanna has just used the terms cu10 and fe6; while you now commented above: 5-10 is a copper wire and 6-10 is the iron wire. Like which side of the road the people of a country decided to drive on, it doesn't make much difference as long as everyone agrees, but it is mass confusion until they do agree.

The only real function of a make and break device is for the operation of the transformer. It isn't needed to complete a circuit to tap the current or to create an electro-magnet. However, while it isn't important where you make the connections between the copper and iron if all you want is current, it certainly does make a difference if you want to shape the magnetic fields properly to create the electro-magnet. Just trace the flow of the electrons along the wires and you'll find connecting a make and break device through either end pair will result in the current flowing one way through the copper wire and the other way through the iron, with the magnetic field of the one basically nullifying the field of the other... There's a picture back on page ten that might clear up my comments about how the electro-magnetic circuit has to be wired. 'Internal' circuit is the movement of ions and electrons in the electrolytic solution and the iron and copper. 'External' is the circuit outside the device, which is most probably where the make and brake device would be located.

[jeanna]

Thanks Joe, but I think the shipping would make this way too expensive. Jim could use it, of course. This place is in Australia. maybe california/australia, but I don't think so.

Storre's link is here in US so it is better for me. Still I don't want to load the whole wire first. I will wrap as I go. At least for now.
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@All,

I want to ask a question about the magnetic field. I don't see any change in a compass with the wires shorted and not shorted.

This is the real reason I haven't pursued this direction with much enthusiasm.


Is the reed switch so much more sensitive than a compass or a compass wired with a coil to become a galvanometer?
A while back I wrapped the iron wire with a little secondary which showed the same voltage as the main primary. This may produce results, but I am still not sure. I only did that on 1 coil.
I did this after reading about coil guns and the flash circuit with its multiple secondarys on a single primary.
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I just bought some gauze on a roll. very cheap. .79 for 10 yd and it is 2 in. wide. I cut it 3/4 in wide and will wrap today. Also, Micropore tape. .89 for 20 yd. It is a paper tape that allows air and water through. I will at least wrap the ends of the gauze with this and maybe make a small coil to check out if it works. I mean the tape must be non occlusive, so hopefully...


Thank you,

jeanna

[jeanna]

mthompson,

jeanna has just used the terms cu10 and fe6; while you now commented above: 5-10 is a copper wire and 6-10 is the iron wire. Like which side of the road the people of a country decided to drive on, it doesn't make much difference as long as everyone agrees

yes, I am using Stubblefield's method.

If it is a 10 it is the beginning if it is a 10cu it is the copper wire at the beginning. I think once you are used to it it isn't so bad. The 5.6 are very clear but I usually add 5cu and 6fe just for sure.

jeanna