Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[FatBird]

Greetings, I just discovered your great thread & find it all very interesting. I notice that you are getting a different meter reading on AC than on DC.

I am wondering if that is due to your Coil TRYING to tap into the AC Aether Vortex (about 100 KHz AC), rather than plain Galvanic DC action. Here is a way to determine if it is AC:

1. Make your Coil with insulated wire, NOT bare wire. Magnet Wire is fine.
2. Wind the Coil on a non metal core, such as cardboard or plastic.
3. The larger the diameter (at Least 3" or 7 mm), the HIGHER the Voltage.
A round cereal box (like Quaker Oats) is great.
4. Try placing a Plain, Non Polarized capacitor in SERIES between your meter & Coil.
A Cap will pass AC, but block DC. A Plain, Non Polarized Cap does NOT have a + or - markings.
5. Turn your Meter to AC Volts.
6. Try placing the Coil in different places, such as a hole in the ground, in a plastic bucket of water, etc.
7. Give it AT LEAST 30 MINUTES in each place to maximize the voltage in each place.

Floyd Sweet just had a rotating Aether Vortex spinning between the 2 flat magnets. Edwin Gray had it spinning inside his special tube. Hubbard had it spinning inside his circumference of pulsing electromagnets. The TESTATICA Device has it spinning inside the two large cans. SM had it spinning inside sequentially pulsing control coils arranged in a Toroid. These are just different ways of accomplishing the same thing.

It is entirely possible that your Earth Battery Coils are TRYING to tap into the Aether Vortex Spin?

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FOR THE NON-TECHNICAL:   A Non Polarized Cap can be inserted either way, as there are NO + or - Markings on it. This is what I am recommending here.

Caps with a + & - are called Polarized Caps & they DO have + & - markings on them.

As for value, I recommend a .01uf or larger value..

[resonanceman]

Gary,

What happens when you hook it up the way Tesla invented. He said it was a great improvement over the previous way.

Make the inside copper wire longer enough to attach to the outside iron wire. Then I guess you will be left with just 1 pair of leads.(makes things easier for me  ).

Tesla said what he was improving was the self dampening (I chose that word) effect of the pancake coil. I am assuming there is a similar dampening with this bifilar pancake.

I promise to wind my own    , but I would love to know the difference sooner.

jeanna

Jeanna 

Here  are  some  pancake stack  #s

These  readings are taken with my little pancake on top of my big one.


Parallel   .425  V DC    no  AC    1.395 mA  DC  no  AC

Series   .8 V DC  no AC   1.077 mA  DC   no AC

Tesla       .002  V DC no  AC    no current 

My  guess    is that by  connecting  it  Teslas  way  we are connecting the  10s and destroying the nature of the coil



gary

Edit      connected Teslas  way my big  pancake   by itself  had   0 v and  0 current

[Pirate88179]

Gary:

Wow!  4.25 vdc is a good number.  The mA seems a little low on each set-up but, I believe this will be higher when either larger wire and/or more windings are attempted.  Good job.  In comparison to our NS coils, even hooking both of mine together in series does not up my volts all that much, and it greatly lowers the mA's.  So, with more mass, maybe this pancake idea will get us where we want to go.  I would like to have about 4 volts and maybe 100mA's or so.  I think we could really do something with that.

Just for the heck of it, you might want to try the 5% distilled white vinegar option.  To see if it also improves this style coil as well.  It jumped my mA's from about 20 to 60 and above.  Also, when you put one in the ground, the numbers seem to go up as well from the inside numbers. (as far as amps go)

My idea for this is to attempt to find cotton cord about the same diameter as my two wires and wind using the "side guides" as you suggested. (Possibly two phonograph records side by side on a center pin spaced with a gap only as wide as the wire diameter.)  Once wound, if I can take one side off without it all going to hell, I might be able to stitch using cotton thread in enough places to hold it together.  Sounds like a 3 beer job with possibly a lot of swearing involved.

One more thought.  I think all of our better numbers come from one wire, to the core.  I know you don't have one, but maybe if you did, a reading from the core to the wire might give way higher mA's.  I can't wait to try this.

Bill

[jeanna]

One more thought.  I think all of our better numbers come from one wire, to the core.  I know you don't have one, but maybe if you did, a reading from the core to the wire might give way higher mA's.  I can't wait to try this.

Bill

Bill and Gary,

I know it is early for this but as a preview, I actually have 1 coil that gets lower voltage to the core and it does it consistently. It is around 10% lower where the others are all higher.

Now that one has a cheap iron spike for a core. no zinc galvanization just iron. I don't know how to tell if it is what is called soft, but maybe.

Anyway the amperage is 13mA which makes its descending curve to about 1.3mA and slides on forever.

Bill,

The one that is made of pipe, and I was told?? that this is what soft iron is, but it does have some zinc on the surface...

this one pulses the amps when the 10's are touched together and the probes are on the 5,6. Then if I put one probe on the core and touch the 10's the amps drops like a rock.

This one is very interesting.

I wanted to ask you about testing amps when touching the 10's. I don't have the resolution in the meter to see much acvoltage, but this one coil gives out the cyclic look in the amps.

Am I doing this right? do you ever see amps go down then up to the wires or to the core?

BTW the tree is puny. I got sap on my lead and only 200mvdc that dropped to 45mvdc. maybe it didn't like it so it pulled down the energy. The woodpecker had made the hole, I was just using it for the probes. They were different. Some only had 30 or 40 mvdc to start then some holes started higher. but all ended up at around 45mvdc eventually. (I guess this belongs on koen's thread.)

jeanna

[FatBird]

I have read almost every possible article on Aether Cold Electricity.  The unaminous opinion from experts is that you can't measure Aether Electricity directly, without a RESISTOR as a LOAD.  Nor can you see it on a scope without a Load Resistor.

Therefore, I recommend a Load Resistor with a starting value between 100 & 1,000 Ohms.

Without a Load Resistor you will not be able to measure any AC Voltage.  It will APPEAR that there is NO AC present.



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