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Overunity Machines Forum



Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

Started by Pirate88179, April 09, 2008, 09:43:54 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

resonanceman

Thanks for posting the  brochure jeanna


gary

jeanna

Quote from: jeanna on May 15, 2008, 04:20:55 PM
Now,

Here is what happened when I tested connecting 1 inner with 1 outer and looked at the compass.

First, with the cell moist there is a voltage across any pair of cu and fe wires. In this case around 0.7vdc

Now, I test with a compass. near the center of the coil when there is still no connection the compass needle points mildly toward the cell.

As soon as I connect 1 inner cu with 1 outer fe the compass needle sslooowwwly goes to normal N. Now, this does make sense. When the cu and fe are connected all voltage goes to zero. It follows that the magnetism would also go to zero.

I may be turned around, but this says to me that NO is what we want.

Switch Open - current makes mag field.
mag field closes the switch connecting cu and fe wires
closed switch means voltage stops
no voltage - means no mag field-
no mag field means switch opens

back to the top


jeanna

I am no being allowed to modify my last post because there now seems to be a time limit to edit my post.

So, I am sorry for the extra pagelength.

Anyway,
I tried to repeat the compass reading thing and now, I cannot.

I even got away from the fridge which moves the compass needle.

I still think the logic is what I posted, but without some way to see what it is (other than with a dmm, that is) I am at a loss.

I agree with was it Gary? there is too little of anything going on.

AND within 24 hours any coil I make goes down in voltage at least 0.1v. I left one in a jar of water last night and this morning it is down that much. Not to the core, just the wires.

This means to me that the wires are getting corrosion

any other ideas??


jeanna

Pirate88179

I hooked up my wires as described and tried it both ways.  I tested with a small iron wire and could not see any magnetic effect at all.  I tired both 10's and once each of 5 and 6. (one to the 10 and the 5, and later one to the 10 and the 6)  Nothing there as I can detect.  I have two cases to work now but when I get a chance, I will try jumping from the core to each wire and see what I can get as far as magnetic effect goes.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

storre

Quote from: jeanna on May 15, 2008, 05:38:42 PM
I am no being allowed to modify my last post because there now seems to be a time limit to edit my post.

So, I am sorry for the extra pagelength.

Anyway,
I tried to repeat the compass reading thing and now, I cannot.

I even got away from the fridge which moves the compass needle.

I still think the logic is what I posted, but without some way to see what it is (other than with a dmm, that is) I am at a loss.

I agree with was it Gary? there is too little of anything going on.

AND within 24 hours any coil I make goes down in voltage at least 0.1v. I left one in a jar of water last night and this morning it is down that much. Not to the core, just the wires.

This means to me that the wires are getting corrosion

any other ideas??


jeanna

I really think the switch needs to be NC. I just heard and interview with Thrapp where he said the same thing. This is just a standard battery if you remove the reed switch. The fact that the electrodes  are wires instead of plates makes no difference. It is just simple galvanic action. He winds them up to create a magnetic field JUST to activate a make and break so as to pulse itself. It's this pulsing that makes the ions quickly flow from one metal to the other and then snap back so the battery does not discharge itself like a normal battery would.

Your battery is going to zero just for this reason like any battery of this type would. Once the ions have transferred from the anode to the cathode it's dead unless you recharge it and force the ions back. Then after many times the corrosion will over come and the battery is basically dead.

So I see it like this:

The first state even though it is only for an instant is:

1) closed reed switch since that's it's normally state with no magnetic field present. Magnetic field will start to be created as long as switch is closed.

2) this closed switch basically shorts out the battery and causes the ions to run from the anode to the cathode and because the anode and cathode are round in a coil, it creates a magnetic field (assuming of course the battery is big enough to make this noticable) Other important point so the magnetic field of the iron wire doesn't cancel out the magnetic field of the copper wire is to connect the reed switch to the opposite end of each electrode. So 5fe to 10cu OR 6cu to 10fe. Doesn't make a difference. Just so the magnetic field is running in the same direction. Once the magnetic field is strong enough to OPEN the reed switch then the magnetic field of course shuts down and?

3) reed switch closes back to it's natural state

wash, rinse and repeat ;-)

I also see no reason just for testing that we can't put a standard aa or whatever size battery necessary to the coil to just give it more amps to create a stronger magnetic field. Just put it in line like this drawing. If the reed switch is switching on and off then the 9v battery and the coil battery should not discharge. Well they would but many times per second and at the same time recharge many times per second.

Bill, I think there should be no connection the core. The core is just to make a stronger magnetic field as in a normal electromagnet.



jeanna

I was wondering if all the layers must be producing galvanic reaction in order for this generator to work.

I have some 100 ft wire, but it is telephone wire and plastic covered.

Since I don't have any NC reed switches and the weeds are whaked I am thinking again.

I think I will make a 100 ft coil. I will wind the first row with cloth around the copper wire, then continue making many layers with the plastic covered copper.

I will guess how long the copper should be and strip the wire that much then continue with the wire as it is.

If this works, I should get enough voltaic to start up the magnetism, and then all the turns should give some real voltage that can then be transferred to a secondary.

Any ideas about this? Is this another dead end?

Think I should end up with some more voltaic too?

I will start with only the innermost coil cotton wrapped then I will see about the outer, I guess.

jeanna