Roll on the 20th June

[ThothTheSecond]

as for thoth, if you've never heard of it then i am sure you know why you do it, please enlighten the audience.

Not quite sure what I am supposed to enlighten everybody about, but since I know relatively nothing about magnets or gravity (just started learning a couple of months ago thanks to this site and to you Mr. Quinn) here goes.  Having been a drywaller (not sure if that is what you would call it in Oz, perhaps wallboard or something like that) for a few years, and having a brother who has been doing it for 25+ years.  Drywall cannot be applied until inspectors have approved framing, plumbing & electrical.  Once drywall is complete & finished, painters do their initial coats (sometimes, at this stage they WILL cut in after the fact like you said).  On the final, or finishing, coat cutting in will ALWAYS happen first as the brush will leave a different texture than the roller, so it is beneficial to the final product to use the roller last to eliminate the brush marks.  I've never seen a professional using masking either, because well, they are professionals and know what they are doing, so those links provided by (can't remember who) didn't really make the point.  So my answer is.....depends which coat you are talking about, but finish coat always cut in first.

If anyone else wants to learn more about drywall I could start a new thread, .... just kidding.

Still a supporter of your wheel AQ, always have been, no matter how you paint.

[ThothTheSecond]

@AQ

Actually, after re-reading your initial post on the subject, I stand corrected.  Yes, professional painters do paint the door and window trim after the fact.  This is because when they are painting the walls the trim has not been installed yet, in new house construction anyways.  I assumed you were talking about "cutting in" corners and ceilings and such, my bad.  You could not paint the trim first because it doesn't exist yet, and you can't wait for the trim to be installed before you start painting anything or you would be there forever after the fact doing unnecessary detail painting on primer and initial coats.

OK, I think that is enough about painting.

I sure miss the plethora of videos that were being produced weeks ago by everyone playing with the array and wheels and such.

[exxcomm0n]

I mow 1/2 the yard and come back to such wealth (I should stay away more often for longer periods I'm sure you'll say ).

So anyway..........

@ Thoth

I knew there was a reason I liked ya!
Ya ever rub shoulders w/ that Moses fella as he gots the best of the best in Egyptian training and tutelage cause of them self same reed boats (I'm sure he "ventured into the unknown" using a few as well )?
Then the ungrateful bastige goes away, comes back, denounces his upbringing, and proceeds to eat the high priests serpent/staff with his own while giving ultimatums to the Pharaoh!

Cheeky Bastige!

On the 3-D software that's free, I only found 1 (educational/student cripple-ware variety):

http://www.ansoft.com/downloads.cfm

In the SV Downloads.....uhhhg it takes membership creation to get to it.

This'll take some time.....you owe me....

And the clickable membership email is taking forever with my trash email acct. so I'll just go on and look for updates below.

@bullsnbears

Good video and exciting stuff!

I like the linear ramp effect, but for more of a slingshot effect, embed the off-shoot array track deeper into the primary  or entrance one (this is just a thought and NOT a critique!) to see if it smoothes the transition.
See how that reacts backwards as well.


This makes me want to make a double ramp (1 for roller, 1 for array) and just slowly ramp the array track away from the roller (on the downward side as using gravity to advantage never hurts).

Lemme see if'n I can draw up a quick sketch.......

Well....that's sorta it (and it sorta looks like a modified Dirt Devil.....Yeesh!).


DING! Fries are done!

Got the email and the link to the software, and it's BIAG! 77Mb

I have to finish the lawn now.

TO them that have emailed me, thank you for your thoughts and I'll be replying soon.

[therealrasta]

My current progress. Enjoy

[The Eskimo Quinn]

Having been the painter on many multi million dollar properties, and likely at least in ausdtralia the single largest residence in the country, In hamilton in queensland the old german consulate buidling where the first ever davis cup tennis match was played was converted to flats, then into a 90 square house, for the guy who design Sancturay Cove on the gold coast. that's 900 square metres of just house no gararges. And i have never in my life seen anyone do frames first. why should you tell the builder you will only come in after everyone is finished excepting ligt fittings and floor coverings?

Speed, a new house can have the glass quickly covered and any fittings, like switches etc are unscrewed and zip lock bags put over them.

undercoat is to airless spray everything from cieling to walls and frames, the same agin flat white oil for ceilings "never water based flat" physics !!! oil and water do not mix, you want those fucking yellow stains on your ceilings? use water based paint. the stains are usually moisture or water washing the timber colour of the trusses and possums and rat piss.

Now the frames, enamel only ever, water based paints are ten times the thickness in micrograms and willl tear when your dorrs stick, your windows will not close, and it is easily damaged. frames cop the most abuse from wear and tear.

so why the order? simple, if you paint the walls first, when you cut the frames any flicks of paint or slight wobble for whatever reason (usually a fucking rouge hair on the brush and you hit the wall, you cannot wipe enamel paint of an acrylic wall without destroying the surface of the paint, it will always have a flat spot whre the turps was wiped over it, or the turps from the paint. any flicks and spots you have the same problem, and if you don't seem them until later on when dry it is even worse, you cannot do spot touchups on rolled walls.

Additionally when your roll the walls the frames all have roller spray, so you have half a day sanding frames again.

But if you do all the frames before the walls, a bucket of water and a soft cloth, you can wipe enamel frames and the water base paint washes of no marks, and it is faster to cut straight ahead of your, that to the side trying to cut the frame. never use tape as a cutting method, if you can't paint pay someone who can.

so the only cuts in the whole building are to the ceiling and to a door or window frame that can be wiped clean with water, no sanding roller spray of the frames, no shitty flats spots on the walls and 30 percent faster. So you get the same money as others for 30 percent less time, and you don't use that to cut quotes, beause your finish will be better, so your talent and knowledge should pay you at least what the shit painters get.

My g'tee on a paint job in enamel is 5 years, if you want it done in acrylic, the g'tee ends when the brush leaves the wall.

OIL AND WATER DO NOT MIX, water based paint you will always have problems, additionallly the biggest claim to fame it has, is is biggest problem, it stretches in the heat and contracts in the cool, whre as enamel shatters like glass. when you cut an arclyic oat of paint on a frame or exterior wall the weather gets underneath because it wont break, and in the end, you can tear it off in sheets, have done it many times. it is plastic so you cannot sand and feather it on a repaint, it just melts and rolls into little balls rather than powder.

Got permanent markers on you walls? forget that shit stain spray, always have a can of silverfrost or aluminium paint for any stains that bleed through, spray wait a day or so, undercoat over with oil based undercoat or primer, and the after a few days repiant with water based paint, if enamel walls paint as soon as dry.

physics has a use in every field of endeavour. I have done marble effect finishes that no one could pick no matter how close they look, because I am not stupid enough to think you can paint marble lines like on a handyman show, the effect is chemical induced and the lines and patterns form themselves.

It is actually good money, but the state i moved to has the world shittiest weather excpet for 3 months of the year, even in winter when sunny, you can only paint outside between 10am and 2 pm because of fog and dew. waste of time trying to make a living here doing that.

The hardware guys are not old school and belive what the reps tell them, because the paint companies make shitloads on water based paint, and not much on enamel. Like Dulux used to be the best 20 years ago, no the enamel is like coulord varnish, no more single coat finish for dulux crap. in Australia use Taubmans trade paints, not only cheaper by half, but better paint.

as for the cut lines on walls if you cut then roll and cut the roll each wall, you will eleimnate this, not a painters trick, just physics, if the cut line dries, you have sealed that spot, wehn you roll you now have two coats on the overlap, that is why the colour is always stronger, when wet, they will bleed together.

Use lambswool roller covers, expensive but hardly any spray, and give a brilliant finish.  a good brush cost between 30 and 100 dollars.(in aus the best are Purdy brushes)

Ok back to the wheel