URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE

[Michaelpier]

I will try to make the sparks without the relays.
iam thinking to use this instead of the scr  http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=g5ciJ0jwZaFPYkHVnREaNg==

Do you think is going to work?

Michael

[lon92]

I will try to make the sparks without the relays.
iam thinking to use this instead of the scr  http://eu.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=g5ciJ0jwZaFPYkHVnREaNg==

Do you think is going to work?

Michael

In my opinion, 1.2A is too small for CDI application.
Also, it's using opto-mechanism, I believe it would be very slow for this application.
Need someone more expert than me to explain this.

My 2 cents... 

[Shiver]

I followed this thread for the first couple of months, and I want to see the light and sound for myself.  Rather than reading the whole thread I decided to read the panaceabocof summary pdf, and there's a couple of points I wonder if someone could clarify:

1.  If I get the www.aquapulser.com RPG 4700 do I essentially have the same system ready to go?  I'm no expert with electronics, and I have a use for this unit on a scooter in the conventional way even if I can't get it to work for using water so it would be the preferred route for me.  The only drawback being that it goes inline from the coil, and I'd prefer to buy a generator which will likely have a magneto instead of battery/coil.  Rather than reinventing things, it would be good to have a stable debugged basic setup from which to do further experimentation.

2.  It is mentioned that capacitance doesn't matter, it's high voltage that matters, yet reproducing apparently took at least 47uf capacitor to get meaningful output.  Is the idea extensible, in that you can go higher and higher with voltage to get more effect whilst using the same energy? or are there practical limits?

3.  The panaceabocof document mentions Graneau using 3600 joules, which not meaning anything to me I googled a conversion which states that 3600j is 1 watt-hour.  I thought wow that's low, and referred to the RPG4700 page which says that it uses 30watts on top of whatever the conventional system is using.  This makes me wonder if they're dealing with the same thing.

I think I have an idea of how to get useful work out of this, but depending on the nature of the effect would mean some very different design approaches.  The pressure test showing 75psi in water that was preloaded at 36psi suggests that the expansion is around double, which isn't anything like conventional ICE gas expansion, and that when tested in air didn't register.  I wonder whether it still wouldn't register if the air was already compressed at 10:1 or whatever a stock engine happened to be, but it would like it would be low and at the same time the camino from SR1 appears to have similar power to gasoline.  Seeing other references to using the effect for forming metal plates and suggesting potential pressures of 20,000-40,000 Atm's makes me wonder if all these things are the same or not.  The outputs vary from mundane to magical.  I'd hate to play with this and dismiss it because I'd misunderstood a key concept.

Last time (2008) when I made some suggestions of things to try to get a handle on what the phenomenon was I got labelled as an imposter (I said things like try putting a balloon on the end and see if it expands and collapses).  As the only way I'm going to get the answers I seek is to actually do it, I'm just looking to make sure I have all the components that have been proven so that I can focus my time on the areas that still have question marks.

[JuBragg]

I have read about ten hours of this thread including much of the earliest pages with diagrams. I see the goal of producing a plasma and following up with a heavier amperage to more completely burn water vapor in the cylinder.

Has anyone considered that flame is a plasma so if we run on conventional fuel and conventional timing, then introduce the high amp spark in a plasma environment at 35° or so after top dead centre it should not need high voltage to bridge the gap.?

Admittedly this would not be running solely on water but it would be far simpler to experiment on existing engines, and various ways of water introduction could be tried.

Many years ago I ran an old (1918?) Amanco hit and miss governed stationary engine that ran first on gasoline to start with, switched over to Kerosene when warmed up, and then had a water regulator that allowed  water to be introduced via a needle valve that increased the power and let the engine run cooler, without of course any follow up spark.

When "Firestorm" plug details became available, I reformed the points of conventional plugs to form a dome on the central electrode and a cup on the side electrode that covered the dome, and even though the cup was only about twice the diameter of the electrode material the resulting spark was quite different to a normal one.  The spark was reddish, and covered the whole area under the dome.

Tests on a four stroke push lawnmower seemed to show increased power, letting me cut tussock grass clumps that stalled the mower before. Unfortunately it ripped the center out of the cutting disk after an hour or two of that ! Then made a set of plugs for my 1992 1800 FWD Subaru and it allowed me to come up a 9 hairpin mountain road on my usual town route in one higher gear, third.

To convert the plugs you need a high speed hobby drill, a set of diamond bits, a hardened steel Phillips metal screw to make the dome former which is hollowed with a diamond bit  then put in a drill and pressed and moved around on the central electrode to 'spin' and form the dome. A slight depression on an anvil metal piece and a domed end punch and a few taps with a hammer forms the bent out side electrode into a cup, tricky balancing act as you have to hold the punch and plug in the same hand. Then bend the electrode back centrally over the center electrode, gap with wire the right diameter bent to go under the cup as a flat gapper will not work.

Not very scientific I know , but if it helps those with the capabilities of making the ignition set up get to use it on a vehicle and show substantial fuel saving it will be one step along the way.

I'm working on an old (1928) 4HP stationary engine with 18" heavy flywheels for a generator, if I can get it going on mainly water it should rival grid power now at 22 to 28 cents a KWH !

[diehostusxana]

Hello, dear gentlemens,
here some update from my side:
.) the schematics - easy to build, it sparks every 2 seconds, when plugged in
.) some photos (more here: https://picasaweb.google.com/101524908390124389939/PlasmaSpark?feat=directlink )

things to note:
.) to avoid circuit switching with hand, I use gas discharge tube. I understand, it takes some energy away, ok, but I feel it to be comfot-giving option
.) the small copper wire is swinging after the hit with HV flow (? is there some classical physics explanation)
.) the spark is jumping also to reverse-oriented diode (? strange, right, but showcases Aaron's correct, reference: panacea-bocaf water spark plug)
.) I don't get a reason of that side-jump of the bight light (see the picture)


That's it about input.
Now about wished output.
0) I previously posted my enging photo, asking for some comments on how to change it to plasma. If there are some practical tips, I would appreciate.
1) can please somebody, who has checked, comment on pulstar.com plugs? Are they giving the FireStorm equal effect or not?
2) does somebody have idea why the pulstar.com has that bright spark?
3) If I would say, the eather, which binds with electrons, is like "uncompressible gas" and current is like "a little bit compressible gas", and therefore, in gotoluc circuit eather is the first who excapes to the spark gap and gives that bright light. Will I be right? (reference book: "The Free Energy Secrets of Cold Electricity").
4) About aquapulser.com - is it generating the big spark with the same amount of energy or it consuming more than classic spark-plug?

Best regards,
myself