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Overunity Machines Forum



S1r PDF coil description and discussion !!!!

Started by xbox hacker, July 08, 2008, 03:20:41 PM

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hydrocontrol

Quote from: boke on July 09, 2008, 10:10:57 AM
hydrocontrol:

He didn't remove the carburetor. He removed the float bowl from the bottom of the carburetor.

The float bowl is filled with gas from the gas tank. It has a shutoff valve that stops the gas flow when the bowl is full.
With it removed there would not be enough gas residue to fire the engine over more than a couple of cycles.

The air intake for that particular carburetor is on top. He does appear to be putting the water line into the air intake.

I agreed it was only the float bowl that was removed and not the carburetor.

Skeptic mode back on  ;)
What puzzles me is how the water bottle with the hose behaves. There should be a steady stream of bubbles all the time if there is no valve on the end of the hose to restrict flow but your only see bubbles when the engine is running. I looked up the Briggs 18hp engine to look at pictures. The air cleaner area is large enough to hid a small bottle dripping gas to run the engine for a short period of time. I am not saying that is the case here only that it is possible.
Skeptic mode off.

Okay. Enough being skeptic.  I have a Briggs 7hp electric start engine. Time to start playing.

bumfuzzled

Quote from: nightlife on July 09, 2008, 02:34:41 AM
bumfuzzled,
If that is true, where is the ground wire for the light bulb? Where is the bulb getting it's ground from if only 3 wires are being used?

From the motors power generating source.

But there are no wires coming from it's charging circuit into the tin can either. If you look closely at video one there's a couple wires running into/underneath the bottom of the motor from somewhere around the starter. They are grayish in color. These could just be going to the solenoid on the starter from when it was on a lawnmower or it could be something else, like 12v from the jumper cables hooked to the starter to the tin can from the backside of of the can, hidden. Personally I think he's trying to throw us a curveball.

Lakes

I would suggest instead of speculating on the coil, wait until S1r shows the video of how his coil is built and then try to replicate that.

Fast

Hello all

I finished the coil and going to give it a try, however I'm running an 6 Volt CDI system so I really dont know what to expect.

/Fast

Shanti

I personally like tinkering around. Otherwise I could just sit in a corner and wait until sombody modifies my car... ;D

I just thought about the statement of S1r, that he needs to use a bat charger for the 12V LV otherwise it would not work, and that he would disclose this later...

Well, if the circuit works as I intended before, then the HV Spark has to be positive. But as far as I know most ignition circuits are made, so that the coils fire negative...(is that correct?)
Well you could just exchange the wires to the coil, but then you have an additional problem: If your coil has fired, the coil has no more connection to gnd, but only to 12V. This means, that in the worst case your battery gets the whole surge...
This could only be circumvented if you are as consequent and also wire the engine so, that the whole engine block gets an exchange of 12V and Gnd. So that now, the "Plug GND" is also on 12V...
But then you could not use the lv discharge, for 12V to 12V wouldn't do anything...
Therefore you need an additional isolated 12V source (eg. second bat or a bat charger...) for the lv discharge, where you connect the gnd of your second source to the 12v of the first source.

Hmm, OK maybe this was too much tinkering...I think I shouldn't post so much anymore in here, it will just annoy other people... I will try to stop myself more in the future...