NEW GUY HERE!

[h2ex0rz]

  Hello everyone! I'm the new guy on the block and did'nt know where to introduce myself! This site is HUGE and there is MASSIVE amounts of information that I already spent days reading over! Like today I spent ALL NIGHT until 8am today READING gobbs of posts! I still have'nt caught up, lol!

I'm hoping I won't get deleted and this is an okay spot and not get moved? I've got tons of questions to ask you guys and its been months since I found this place and I'm the only person around myself, lol, that can bounce any ideas off of because no one else understands or is'nt interested!

If you guys don't mind I'd like to do a run down of questions, because I too 'am contemplating on building an on demand fuel cell. Although, its overwhelming and I dunno where to begin! Please be polite and answer my questions as I'am thirsty for KNOWELDGE! Most of my questions are based off of my own ignorance and I'd like someone to hold my hand and walk me across the street, lol!

1. Is VOLTAGE or AMPERAGE the key to hydrogen production?
- I'm kinda on the amperage side, but without facts to support it, besides watching some videos, I can't say why.
2. Why stainless steel?
- I know stainless steel is good for corrosion and all, but it is a resistor, why has no one used aluminum or gold plated steel?
3. How is anode and cathode arrayed to produce HHO?
- Could I not just stick a + to one plate and - on another plate next to it and alternate? I see some people do an array like +---+----+ Whats the benefits? It would seem as though that this is only because the hydrogen is made on the - side, but if there is'nt enough +'s then would'nt it lose efficiency?
4. How come tests are done in small scale and not cranked up in high voltages or amperages?
- I realize the water is heated during the process, but if you were to crank up the juice, would you not see more production or is there a peak or something that outweighs efficiency? I'd like to run test with an alternator that can generate 210 amps DC and run at 12 volts. If I were to pass that much through the cell, what would happen? 

Cause in my thinking by doing so, production would be more than nominal to sustain an engine to run. Although all the wiring would certainly be beefy to support that much amperage!

5. I see that heat is an issue. Howcome I have'nt seen anyone try and pump the water mix through a radiator with a large PC fan or something?
- By doing so, you would effectively cool it and keep the cell from overheating, would you not? Although using a thermostat as well you could keep the cell hot enough to maximize production, but not burn anything up, right?

6. Can you not pass the HHO mix through a water dryer/seperator to make "pure" H2?
- I figure that if you pass it through a seperator that the gas is virtually water vapor free and you can deliver just HHO to the engine? I realize yes, if you have steam than your doing something wrong but I'm sure it will happen no matter what?

7. What is the most efficient electrode array to produce HHO?
- IMO, I would think that either using SS "mesh" or plates with holes in the plates would yield best results. There is surface area for HHO production, and yet enough to allow HHO through the plates to escape? Keep in mind I would orient them in a horizontal fashion...

8. HHO production under vacuum...
-Does it really increase production or what? I'm not too sure I understand why a vacuum is good for it?

9. I'd like to build a cell, but I dunno what the best material is? I was thinking of 1/2" plexiglass, but how do you secure the panels together to make a cell? In alot of pictures I don't see any screws or bolts to hold it together, what gives?

10. PWM; I understand the function of it and what it does, but why?
- The thing I really don't get about it is that I see that people are using it to create more hydrogen with less juice. Then I also see that its also about resonant frequency to produce HHO? Is this different than trying to take a tuning fork to find out resonant freq. of water?

SORRY for all the dang questions, but when you have NO ONE to talk to about this, it gets all bottled up and I NEED TO KNOW!

THANK YOU for all the effort to educate me! I hope to really put this all into play soon! I have more questions for you guys but I feel its overwhelming enough already!!!

[electricme]

To New Guy
Welcome the the happy world of Free Energy


WARNING, if you do yourself an injury, I am not to blame cause I dont know you nor have I spoken to you, but my good nature wants to help you, so only do what you need to when you know what you are doing, and as I carnt b there to tell you if you are doing any thing wrong, then be careful, but Im not to blame for any silly stuff if yo do anything wrong.


1st off I'm not going to answer every question you have put up here, there are far too many, but I have begun by putting to bed a myth about hydrogen and will let others answer the rest for you.


The only ones grinning are those who have succeeded or are trying to find a way to use or develop another fuel.
There are thousands (should be read millions and millions) of people who are complaining about the cost of petrol, diesel and gas.

So why are there hundreds, if not thousands of people trying to work out a new technology? like I said, its the cost of energy.
If the cost of fuel had been pegged low, then the rush would not be on.

OK that having been said, I can see you (New Guy) have not been sitting on your lorals, but have been crusing the net and have read up on alternative energies. HHO is just one of them but I think running an engine on water is cheeky and way out, it is green energy also, so, if you are a new bee who has happenned to pass by, read up, study and study and study, soak it in, search and search and you will succeed.

If you are a petrol head and are splitting your sides laughing, we dont mind, we got thick skins, go ahead, when the petrol is priced out of your reach, you wont be laughing then.
I also expect theveing of fuel will become a huge problem very soon, imaging if they syphon out just a tank of water,,,, ha ha

OK making hydrogen od HHO, is the process dangerious? yes, if you dont readup and do it properly, I leave it unsaid what will happen if you light up a smoke when HHO is flowing and you dont have a bubbler in line. You just dont get to hear anything for a while (or ever).

Debunking a mith generated when the hinden burg crashed, what happened?
Ohhhh the media got involved and said it exploaded, they were wrong, hydrogen on its own wont explode, you need two more things, oxygen and a spark. If the airship exploded, wreckage would have been thrown all over the country side, an explosion by its very nature tears apart objects, the gasbag frame wasnt scattered all over the place, it stayed in one piece. The hindenberg burned, it did not explode. Why did it go down on an angle? because it was top light and bottom heavy, 99 persent of the heat energy went vertical. OK (again) dont take my word for it, go and research, check it out for yourself.

OK

If you still want to make HHO, readup on it, visit U tube and see the success and failures, they are there.
What can HHO be used for? your car, a plane, a boat, a lawnmower or to power your house with it.

First you need to make a test setup, use stainless steel, it lasts the longest, stainless is used for connecting voltage and internal framework. Use a bubbler to halt any blowback.
Dont store HHO, you are asking for trouble.
Make a test setup to gain experience, mistakes made are more forgiving this way, than boldy setting it up in your shiny chariott and going POOF in public causing you embarassment from the petrol heads.

Feed the HHO into a stationery B&S 3 to 5 HP engine,
Retard the firing, as HHO burns faster and harder than petrol, it keeps the conrods stright and the bearing surfaces circular.
When you get more experienced with the process, move forward with applying frequency to the water and voltages.
Once a gain, dont take my word for it, check it out for your self.

Best advice I can give is study up first, print out what you read up, web sites are not around forever, study, study study.
When you do start for the first time have a mate around for safety.

New Guy, you sure ask a lotta questions?
lol

jim

[h2ex0rz]

electricme, thank you for your time and informative response!

Although, I was actually already aware of what you said! I just have'nt indulged into my own experiments yet and don't have any experience, just the book smarts for the moment! 

Are'nt I under the impression that you cannot change timing on the small 3-5 HP engines?

I want to get into the PWM, but its either I develop one myself or I buy a module from someone. Does anyone sell one? I dont have an oscillascope, and don't look forward to buying one! lol!

I'm actually more interested in the works of water arc energy, and what Stan Meyers did with his spark plug design!

[electricme]

@ New Guy

A long winded reply follows

OK, timing on a B&S 5 hp engine....
You need to keep your valve gear timing as they are, don't mess with that, it is the electrical spark timing you need to adjust.
There are a couple of ways one can achieve this.

The first would be to examine your current ignition points setup, take note of the exact position the points open and the point gap, you need to move the ignition points so they don't fire at top dead centre. Take a photo of it and print it out.

99 percent of engine crankshafts (small 1 cyls) rotate clockwise, if looking downwards at the starting pullrope, so one needs to "retard" the firing point so when the points open at the correct position.
.
You need to remove the ign points and reset them up again so the spark plug fires when the piston is just beginning it's downward power stroke, I haven't done this but it will work, if you decide to go back to petrol, just put the ignition points back in their original position.

I can't tell you how far the piston will be from the top of the cylinder, as the length of the conrod and the conrod "crank" distance from the center of the crank all have a bearing on this, (every model is different) so if you go to a mechanic and ask him (he will think you are nuts) 

Another way to achieve the same thing is to do this.
Most small single cyl engines have a removable collar (lobe), I noticed the "rover mower do" there is a key way or slot which has been machined into this small round shaped piece, you cannot alter this as there just isn't any room to do it, so you need to dismantle the engine, then take the crankshaft to a machinist and ask them to "cut" a new keyway in the crankshaft, at what ever position you feel works for you. (a fraction behind the original keyway) Of course once again,he will think you are bonkers ha ha.

Some crankshafts have a flat area ground on the side of the camshaft, it is a simple case of welding up the old area, and grinding a similar flat spot just before the old flat spot, and smoothing off with a file.

If your crankshaft has a fixed raised lobe, (and you cannot alter the "keyway" or the ignition points, you could take the crankshaft to a crankshaft grinding shop, tell them what you need and why, and ask them to rebuild the cam lobe in the position you choose.
I'm suggesting 10 degrees retarded, because It is the recommended one, I have not done any of these as I haven't got that far myself, so if you or anyone has a prob, sorry.

If a cam lobe can be rotated, then another way is to drill and tap a small hole in the side of the crank and use a tiny allenkey locking screw to secure the cam lobe, but you will have to remove the "key" from the normal "top" dead center firing position, to allow this to occur. Use locktite

A rough as guts approach would be to work out the position to put the cam lobe and "tack" it in position with a bead weld, but then you would not be able to replace any bearing etc etc later on before removing the bead weld.

Any purists reading this, please understand that I do know it is butchering, and is well off the "normal" way of modifying, and it is just to find out the best way to setup a firing position for the spark plug.
But it is not a usual or normal situation.


OK PWM.
Making a working electronic doodah from scratch is a big thing, and I take my hat off to anyone who attempts this.
That said and done, there are many pitfalls, electronic components are easily damaged, by heat, incorrect positioning, too much current or voltage, wrong component used, the list is endless.

Remember, parts run on smoke, let out the smoke, and it wont work, and I not know how to put de smoke back in 

I suggest you leave this to someone who knows how to solder, and has done this for some time, they in all probability will be able to fault find also, if you do decide to tackle making the PWM, then by all means, but take it from me, if you don't know how to solder or fault find in electronics, or be able to "read a circuit", you are waisting your time and will get very disappointed.

There may be someone who has a PWM "kit" designed for the Stanley Meyer unit, made up and ready to go, if anyone reading this does know, please post the web address or suggest where one could be pointed to.

OK New Guy, good luck



tisme

 

[electricme]

@ newguy
Found a circuit for you, head accross to
http://www.rolls-royce.150m.com/car_on_water/meyer_lawton_en.pdf
This might be able to help you