Fueless Friction Heater Manufacturer Found

[Cap-Z-ro]

Thanks Bill...I have already alerted the fraud section of my credit card company, and the Att. Gen. in Missouri.

Next I have to find out how to contact his web server.

I intend to link this thread to his name and that of friction or fuelless heaters through 'tiny url'.

Too bad for all the honest people selling products over the net...these low life scammers ruin it for everybody.

I have also a local machine shop building a better unit...plus I may get one from the older gentleman I mentioned earlier.

Here is my next email to the scam artist:
...


MY ANSWER HIS EXCUSES ARE IN [CAPTIONS]



Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 19:22:36 -0700
From: drivingcomfort@udrivesafe2.com
Subject: RE: Heater
To: nodcam@hotmail.com

Hi Don,

LIARdakis === Sorry about my slow response. I strained my foot badly and the first 2 days my foot was not happy at all. The actual shipping of the 1H/P ac motor is $59.00 and you should have it by Wednesday.

LIARdakis ===  Please see below answers about the questions. The person you took the unit to, shouldn't ad anything to the drum. [ It was known when the unit was shipped that the only way that drum would turn would be to raise it with a "removable" bushing...if the implication is that the machinist damaged the unit.]

LIARdakis === The drum turns fine Don, You just have to Adjust the cover at proper high so it doesn't contact the inside steel drum.

[If the drum turned, as intended, its walls would not have been breached by grinding away at the bottom outer edge to stop it from scraping bottom, as it does.]

It seemed the drum was scuffing on the bottom of the outer cylinder which was evident by the scuff marks when I removed the drum.

LIARdakis === Maybe the bottom of the steel drum went hockey because of the vibration during the shipping.


[ The only evidence of damage to the drum was from grinding through its wall. ] 

LIARdakis === The fix is to tie the lower shaft of the drum on a vice and pull out. This will end the scuffing and with the heat (the heat will keep the bottom of the drum expanded permanently)  it will never happen again.

[ As stated in my letter both ends are bowed inward...making what you are suggesting impossible. ]

I noticed that a nickel had been inserted into the round hole which housed the ring bearing and where the bottom of rotating drum had been ground in obviously efforts to alleviate the scuffing.

LIARdakis === The nickel is there to support the Bearing. For the time being the bearing do not touches the nickel. After the first run of the Heater the Aluminum cell will expand and the bearing will settle up on the nickel

There was a noticeable gap where the two ends of the aluminum ring forming the under part of the lid met, where an attempt had been made to weld the ends together.

LIARdakis === The gap is normal Don because of the strip's thickness.

[ If the gap was 'normal' an attempt would not have been made to 'hot' weld the aluminum...2 machinist's said it should have been 'cold' welded. ]

Both ends of the ring bent downward and away from the under part of the lid, to which it was riveted numerous mis-measured holes in around the circumference of the rings were also apparent.

I took the unit to a local machinist for an assessment.

He determined that reason the drum was striking bottom was due to the fact that the bottom as well as the top plates of the drum were both bowed inward causing the outer wall of the drum to make contact with the bottom of the cylinder instead of the center aspect of the drum resting on the bearing mounted on the bottom of the cylinder as intended.

After adding a bushing to raise the bottom of the drum clear from the bottom of the outer cylinder so that the drum would spin freely on the bearing, he placed the lid on, and noted that the upper aspect of the drum was also scraping against the inside aspect of the ring which forms inner aspect of the lid on one side.

This problem was caused by the fact that both the top and bottom bearings were not properly centered in the bottom of the cylinder or the lid of the unit, causing scraping on the one side and a gap of nearly 1/2 inch between the drum and opposite side of the cylinder wall of the unit.

LIARdakis===The upper shaft goes through a special closed bearing [the heat will not dry this bearing]. The person you took the heater to should ad nothing on the drum. A simple [vice pull] needed only.

LIARdakis===The unit is properly centered Don.

[The unit is not properly centered...he measured it in front of me. ]

He [the machinist] also questioned the reliability of the heater due to the breach in the wall of the hollow drum chamber.


[What about the breach in the drum chamber   The unit is ruined because of that alone.]
...

[resonanceman]

Capt Z    sorry to hear that you  got  scammed .

The guy sounds like a real jerk .



I have been  wondering  about  trying to make a small version of these heaters .     

I was  wondering about using  disks in place of the inner  drum .

I was thinking of  using  disks from  hard drives if I can find a source of  old drives . 
I have  a couple of them but I would need  dozens   .

not  sure what I would use  for   the outer  housing .    I don't  have  much  of a shop  so I can't  machine  anything to size .  I have to find something that fits .   


You may  have seen this already     
This site   has alot of  stuff .......most of it pretty general
http://free-energy-info.co.uk/PJKbook.pdf

Pages  706 to 709  has several  different designs .
I like the idea of  a tube near the  outer edge of the  disks or drum .....going to a radiator.   

gary

[infringer]

Threaten to turn him in for knowingly defacing government property if he does not refund you.

Admittance of the nickle being there is admittance to knowingly defacing money which is a federal crime.

Case and point match the thing does not work either so threaten to turn him both for fraud and defacing federal property.

[Cap-Z-ro]

His lawyer would successfully argue that the Federal Reserve is owned by corporate bankers and therefore their money is not government property.


@gary,

The disc method has been tried successfully.

For some reason my server is denied access to you link...can you paste the info here ?


The term jerk doesn't really do this guy justice...there's more, read on...
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RE: Heater‏
From:   Themistoklis Liardakis (drivingcomfort@udrivesafe2.com)
Sent:   September 15, 2008 11:24:11 PM

Hi Don,

The fix is to tie the lower shaft of the drum on a vice and pull out. This will end the scuffing and with the heat (the heat will keep the bottom of the drum expanded permanently)  it will never happen again.


ME... [ As stated in my letter, both ends are bowed inward...making what you are suggesting impossible. ]


LIARdakis === It's the normal fix to do. Pulling the lower end of the drum with the help of a vice solves all the problems. The steel drum's lower end went inward because of the vibration. The top end of the steel drum is ok to be inward.

Best Regards
Themistoklis

[resonanceman]

@gary,

The disc method has been tried successfully.

For some reason my server is denied access to you link...can you paste the info here ?

The  link  doesn't  work for me now either.
I tried  posting it here but  it is to big .
I can't seem to  cut and paste sections  of it


I will look at it again tomorow


gary