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Overunity Machines Forum



New HHO Cell Help 500ml 90sec

Started by rtsurfer, March 18, 2008, 09:18:29 PM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

darbee63

Ramset, my opinion is DWWB (for your application), do what works best, thats kind of the cool thing about the web and sharing info:) I prefer brute force.
My alternator is 105 amp and can handle it, albeit very taxing and I don't like to see the system work so hard. The only system I've seen that comes close to what I've built for production is daddyo on you tube, but even his using a neutral plate configuration and a PWM I believe  hes in the 30-40 amp range, the same range I'm at without neutrals and a PWM.
The experiments I've done with neutrals was pre-PWM and the production wasn't near what I get with straight +/-.
If you can get get 1.7 liters......kudos and please post the amount of plates and amperage. I test with inches of water coulumn. With plates and a PWM I get about 10 inches, with straight power about 15 on flat plates, so I felt no reason to test further with PWM on straight plates and went to a tube configuration.
My straight plate configuration with a PWM is pretty good but no where near my 6-5 tube set up for production.
I call it darbees gatlin. 6 tubes with 5 tube in a tube set-up. I start out with 1 1/2", 1 1/4", 1", 3/4"and 1/2". With the 1" and 3/4" being my positive.All 6 tubes silver soldered together on the exterior to make 1 common - bond. With a 1 1/2" tube in the center it makes a perfect circle that looks like a gatlin gun......hence the name "darbees gatlin".
The positives I feed from the bottom, and silver solder together, the neutrals from the top for safety reasons and being the hydrogen atoms migrate to the negatives are silver soldered like wise. The tolerance between them is 1/16th of an inch. (Talk about a chore silver soldering that tight of a tolerance on staggered tubes in your garage)
My PWM will produce next to nothing with the tube configuration and a straight sine wave, not sure why but some how I think resonance upward towards the negative plays a big part.
So it seems to work well. I haven't measured LPM because I've been using inches of water column since a torch was my ulimate goal. I'm at around 25 inches no where near what I was getting out of plates or with a PWM.
The housing is an aluminum cappacinno heater for cooling purposes and to prevent distortion from the heat.
My O2 sensor project is in the works now, Madscientist I beleieve has a pretty good set-up, I'm in the process of building a dual vu LED indicator, that'll measure incoming and outgoing millivolts. (Hate driving with my voltmeter on my seat).
But time and work are against me, so until I test further with multiple differant LMs and comparators that'll be a while.
My runs have all been short mileage runs to date, because of space confinement under the hood, I'm still deciding which way to go. The system I described above is great and my vehicle tends to like it with water coming out of the exhaust within minutes. But space seems to be an issue. The smaller units I've built don't come no where near the production (kind of why like I mentioned earlier I think the tube resonance is a factor in my production)
So I'm going to have to keep trying differant options and alternatives.
I'm truly interested in the higher voltage/frequency issue.........but thats kind of been my problem to date. Everytime I stumble onto something differant I wander off on yet another prototype.
Kind of one of the reasons why I haven't posted what I percieve as the holy grail yet,....like all others I'm still testing.
But by all means share your info, I'm new here so forgive me if you already have.....thanks

Darbee63


darbee63

rtsurfer, you tube has a lot of videos showing the pros and cons. Myself I've found brute force works best on my tube configuration.
I was under the assumption based on your drawings you were feeding from opposite ends.
What I found that makes a huge differance on flat plates is both the positive and negative being fed from the bottom and a negative going back up to the top and connecting the negatives.
The production seemed to be pretty even, this was with a straight + - set-up.
But then again it could just be the riser/smokestack effect making it appear to have even production.

My PWM on this particular set-up produced almost the same as brute force,.....again no where near the tube set-up, but that all depends on exactly how much your satisfied with producing................to me .......more is better.
Hope that helps :)

Darbee63

Randohr

I get mpg gains with using brute force (no neutral plates) single cells with a 225w 1 ohm resistor in series with my cell.  The more the cell surface area the better.

http://www.newark.com/28K6256/passives/product.us0?sku=multicomp-mc14642

It's such a simple design.  14.7 v / 1 ohm +_  = 14 amps.  The circuit creates a voltage divider network that drops the cell voltage down relative to it's ohms.  I'm currently running @ 3 volts at 14 amps with my set-up.  (at the cell)  My 9v battery powered efie is set to + 250 mvdc bias.  I'm averaging about 40% gain in mpg.  I also removed all check valves, I didn't find any that worked well enough.  I no longer get my bubbler sucked dry from the cell cool down.  I've ran my current cell for a couple hours and had very little heat gains.  there's good and bad in that. 

professor

Quote from: rtsurfer on March 18, 2008, 09:18:29 PM
Help me with this a little. It seems the cell produces high HHO in the middle and very low HHO on the outside. Here is an Image of the set up.

Now I am not sure why this happens and it is not an exact replica of the smacks booster but from what I see the positive around the middle 4 negative cells produce the high HHO.

I checked the flow and it is 500ml in about 90sec hot.

Here is the car view.



The plates are about 11" high sanded down SS plates using teflon bolts and PVC spacers at .08"

The HHO Cell is 4"PVC and stands 14" high.




If I understand you right, you are worried about Heat meaning that you draw lots of Amps.
What kind of Water do you use?,do you use any chemicals? If so, maybe try to dilute your water.
If you are using PWM  you can try to vary your Pulsewidth.
If I misunderstood your Plight forget about my answer.
professor