Joule Thief

[MrMag]

I haven't been posting much here but I have been following it very carefully. I have also made a couple of jt's out of some old flash units I had laying around. I also want to try to make one on a little larger scale. I'm not sure if it will work but I will let you all know when I start on this.

The reason I am now posting is to kindly request IS to stop posting his crap on this thread. If you have something to add or help please do. To post that people are transmitting and receiving is crap and only serves to confuse some of the posters. It is a joule thief not a transmitter. Please keep these kind of comments or riddles to yourself.

[Mk1]

@timmy

Always check ac en dc reading this will help you understand faster, i am pretty sure you ad 1.5 vac before adding the diode.Also connecting led in series lets you how powerful your unite really has.In parallel you don' need more then 3 volt to light multiples.

@all

I have made some jt with germanium transistor and got switching at lower amps, therefore decreasing current taken from battery on each cycle
adding longevity to battery.

[amigo]

@all
I just thought what would happen if I switched the Green LED on instead of the RED LED.

The Frequency Counter showed me a drop from 236.87  MHz for RED LED to 198.00 MHz using the Green LED.
A diference of 38.87 MHz

The oscillope waveforms alter only very slightly, there is almost nothing between them

0184.jpg = closest I can get at .1uS    (micro second)
0184.jpg = at 0.5 uS
0186.jpg = at 1.0 uS
You get the idea now.

0190.jpg shows the Green LED ON the connections of the Frequency meter and the Cro.
0191.jpg shows the frequency of 198.00 MHz on the digital display.

I havent a Orange LED handy to compare but I will look out for one in the next couple of days.
   

@electricme

I have not been following this thread religiously but I do check in from time to time...

I'm confused about these measurements, are you sure you are seeing MHz ?!

Back in the days when I played with the Jule Thief I could not get it going higher than maybe few hundred KHz, how is it possible that yours run at MHz level without the use of VHF transistors?

@all

Someone mentioned milliamp gains and currents in general, let's not forget that you are impulse running LEDs here which are semi-conductors and behave differently than normal light bulbs. Why doesnt' someone try to drive incandescent bulbs - find some that are of similar voltage rating to LEDs (3v) and see what happens?

[timmy1729]

@timmy

Always check ac en dc reading this will help you understand faster, i am pretty sure you ad 1.5 vac before adding the diode.Also connecting led in series lets you how powerful your unite really has.In parallel you don' need more then 3 volt to light multiples.

@all

I have made some jt with germanium transistor and got switching at lower amps, therefore decreasing current taken from battery on each cycle
adding longevity to battery.

@MK1

I haven't tried multiples simply because I wanted to get one working first 
I read somewhere that lighting LED's in parallel is a bad idea, but that taking strings of LED's in series and lighting those series in parallel is ok. Any idea if that is true or not?

I'll have to see if I can find some germanium transistors around here. This town sucks when it comes to finding parts.

[Mk1]

Incandescent bulb will not light on any circuit on this tread fuji or not there is not enough amp to do so and the bulbs need 120 volts bipolar .
The circuits now experimented are are not working in that mater they are making high voltage spikes useful for fluorescent lighting led work well with it as well, my main interest is in how fast they charge caps with those high voltage spikes then you make a bigger on running from the caps going higher and bigger each time.Then making it run from aluminum and pennies voltaic pile, or recycle beer cans battery.
earth battery could work but would need at least 400 mili amps so you would need a huge number of them in parallel to get that.

Also my explanation of high voltage neg spike(simple experiment should help you understand) as you put current in a coil it excites the copper
into moving electricity but when you stop the voltage abruptly it creates a vacuum effect copper rushes back (in vortex like fashion)in place with greater strength and speed then needed to move it in the first place, to make a truly efficient this needs to be part of equation.
   
@timmy
i use led as my eyes to see potential on coil winding to show me what the meter cant see.And if you really want a flash light you got the best,
that being said make sure the the 2 coil lead that go to battery positive pole are wound in opposite directions.