Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of this Forum, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above
Thanks to ALL for your help!!


Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 7 Guests are viewing this topic.

timmy1729

@All
I have to report some success! I got an LED to light using my small JT powered by my Earth Batteries. Notice I used the plural because I had to use two earth batteries in parallel. Right now I have two copper pipe and galvanized spike batteries and one copper pipe and magnesium battery. I had to hook one of the copper/spike batts and the copper/magnesium battery in parallel. The copper/mag produces 1.35vdc, but only like 2mA. The copper/spike would give only .3 or so vdc but approx 90mA. I seriously think I'm doing something wrong with my batteries, because there are others that have gotten way better results with just the copper/spike setup. The small JT made the LED light, although not very bright. It was just a regular red LED from a big multi-pack. I need to wait until the ground dries a little to play around with the position of the magnesium. I need to try this with my big JT with the Darlington on it before I put the TIP3055 on it.

@Bill
What material wire did you use to come from your magnesium? All I had available was copper wire. I used it bare so it would make contact. What do you use to come from the carbon rod? I need to just suck it up and buy mine so I can get some juice  ;D
Then I will have your setup. Carbon rod & 3 magnesium fire starters, correct?

innovation_station

Quote from: xee2 on January 27, 2009, 02:26:31 AM
@ ist

I think that your last scope shot (both_coils_bigger_spikes.jpg) shows best what is happening. The spikes are the voltage when the LED is off (same as open circuit). When the LED turns on the voltage across it will be limited to the forward drop of the diode (about 2 to 3 volts).

EDIT: a diode does not obey ohms law.



i thought those spikes are well beond 2 to 3 v   but at a better look they are not...  :)

but it is all good

i did lite 4 leds np from that unit but they were  not as bright as the jt   i think there easyer ways to get there than all the resonant tuneing and stuff like that  but who knows ...   when i did hook the high self inductance winding  to the low one through the diode input wave changed ...  as well did the out put the spikes grew ...  why?

well as i see it it was because the 2 coils of equal mass but diffrent inductances ..

here is another 1 of my projects im doing .. and i wondered if i could get a little help with it  ;D

i want to switch pos and neg but i want diodes on both sides so ...  what could i use...?

im not a big electronics guy ...  so i do not know thease things ...  but is there a diode for neg??  meaning only allowing neg to flow out of the diode and block all  else that tryes to return to it .. 


basicly i want blocking diodes both ways ... hummm 

the only reason for this is so some of you can build it  :)

i really do not need diodes ...  but it will make it quick and easy for everyone ...

i have a bunch of diodes but they must be the wrong ones ..  or i cant get them hooked up properly for my job

can some one let me know ...   

i will draw a pic of what i want to do but i need help with the correct parts...

thanks ..

ist!

now i have come up with another way to do the same ...

i will explain it now ...  but i want to use dc to do this ...  so the only way i can come up with in my mind now is this ... i have not given much thought to this ..  but i will fire away any ways.. 


ac and a bridge rectifier ...  this way we convert the real ac ... to dc and pulse .. as i see it can never return to source through the bridge ... any other way it seams to be trickey

i have a varryack

this is not for kids....  this will HURT YOU ... so dont be dumb...

as i remember sm had to use a bridge on the input side ...  b4 the transformer ...  probally to block it ... so it was forced to look for the next path .. this is my thinking bout this it is not a question of if it works ....  i know it works ...

and i have a unit i made long ago that does this but  the supply has an over load in it so it blocks the return this is how i figured this out ..

when it over loads the bulb is SUPER BRIGHT  I MEAN SUPER BRIGHT  video does not do it justice ...   yes i know it is only a 7.5watt 120 bulb and the power supply was 19v 4 amp ...   but point is it can not lite the bulb ... dirrectly from the supply it is really dim

just a few more ideas ...   

this seams to me to be similar to the jt....   where the input cant power the load alone ...  ;)

i will add 1 more pic...  ;D

To understand the action of the local condenser E in fig.2 let a single discharge be first considered. the discharge has 2 paths offered~~ one to the condenser E the other through the part L of the working circuit C. The part L  however  by virtue of its self induction  offers a strong opposition to such a sudden discharge  wile the condenser on the other hand offers no such opposition ......TESLA..

THE !STORE IS UP AND RUNNING ...  WE ARE TAKEING ORDERS ..  NOW ..   ISTEAM.CA   AND WE CAN AND WILL BUILD CUSTOM COILS ...  OF   LARGER  OUTPUT ...

CAN YOU SAY GOOD BYE TO YESTERDAY?!?!?!?!

innovation_station

this unit apears to charge a battery at a good rate...

but im useing power but as i beleave... more is returned....  than what is used ..

agin i may be wrong ... 

ist!

in the unit that charges batteries ...   i used 0 diodes only what ever is in the supply wich i have not taken apart yet ..

and the battery was hooked to the secondary of the mot  :)

you can watch it climb with every pulse ...  the battery ...
To understand the action of the local condenser E in fig.2 let a single discharge be first considered. the discharge has 2 paths offered~~ one to the condenser E the other through the part L of the working circuit C. The part L  however  by virtue of its self induction  offers a strong opposition to such a sudden discharge  wile the condenser on the other hand offers no such opposition ......TESLA..

THE !STORE IS UP AND RUNNING ...  WE ARE TAKEING ORDERS ..  NOW ..   ISTEAM.CA   AND WE CAN AND WILL BUILD CUSTOM COILS ...  OF   LARGER  OUTPUT ...

CAN YOU SAY GOOD BYE TO YESTERDAY?!?!?!?!

sparks

@Inno


    The scope shot on the input is a voltage shot.  You want the voltage across the input as high as you can get it.  Take your input from the pwm and take a look at it with no load on it.   This is what you want to see when your unit is operating.  High as you can go the better.   You want voltage high or impeded by the primary.  Just pulse that input coil until the voltage is just as high as when the coil wasn't in the circuit.  Now short out your secondary with a lightbulb or lowohm resistor.  Readjust your pulse to get it back as high as it will go.  Now as Yucca suggested if you want you can feedback the ouput winding to primary winding and disconnect the pwm all together.  Put another winding like the primary on the torroid to get it excited and pulse it again adjusting the pwm to it's highest voltage.  Put your load parallel to the hv and the primary parallel connection and see if you can lightup the bulb.   You smell something cooking it will be best to put a fuse in there because in theory you will be able to shutoff the pwm and everything will stay running in the mains.  Like Yucca said kinda TPUish.
Think Legacy
A spark gap is cold cold cold
Space is a hot hot liquid
Spread the Love

gadgetmall

@All
I did some searching and came up with a small circuit using a new  o volt Fet Osc .. This thing is capable of oscillating at voltage as low as 0.16 volts indicating it could be used to drive a Joule thief by hand or body power alone ! I am going to get one as soon as i can sell something ..
Visit www.sunpowerwindpower.com For Gadgetmall fugi Completed unit,low powered Joule thief Kit's AA Fugi Kits,   rainbow R G B Joule theif kits completed housed units. NEW E-LIGHT AAA PERPETUAL LIGHT Runs for ?EARTH BATTERIES NOW ON SALE !  MAGNESIUM AND CARBON RODS ALL SIZES CARBON RODS 1/2" to 6" in Diameter 1 to 4 feet long & 650FARAD2.7VOLT ULTRABOOSTERCAPS THE MONSTER ,Instructions. Vintage Germanium Transistors run on low volts(0.20Vdc-some lower!)  Solar Cells 5VDC80ma,   BLUE BURNING LASER KITGreen laser pointer SEE Gadgetmall Kits link !