Joule Thief

[resonanceman]

@Gary

I think that since the first is a regular battery , copper to iron galvanic action , in a coil way to take the magnetic pulse from the other coil . The galvanic show has ac and dc on meters , so Dr we got a pulse send it to the outer coil and third one iron takes electricity but react magneticlly inducing more power in both galvanic coil , it feed it self.

Mk

I agree   

I think that  the back emf  from the  field of the secondary  collapsing  will  be partly  rectified by  being  attracted  more to the iron than the copper ........


gary

[jeanna]

EDIT
see below for confusion here.

@Jeanna,
Ok, so I redid the circuit in that config and the led goes out, and I strung a third coil into the circuit and used it to light the led, which does work, but tanking the led doesn't work in either case.  Not in my circuit at least - i can put a small cap on the circuit, but doesn't seem to do much.

I may just need to go larger all together.  Thanks for the tip about the tertiary coil.   

Very nice, Jadaro.

I also found that the basic light goes out. I was encouraged to not let it bother me by MK1 who said just pull it out.

This is true. That light that is drawn into the basic jtc takes full energy from the system, however the light produced by the secondary (you called it the tertiary) is a free ride. It is here that I got 30 leds to light for the same juice. I could have lit more. I ran out at 30 leds. (And I stopped clocking them at 12 hours and the battery still had plenty left.) This is a very surprising configuration and very exciting.

You have now started to show that the ferrite may not be necessary.

Earlier, we were discussing the importance of having the right kind of ferrite. Perhaps the right kind of ferrite is a copper wire! 

Thank you for doing this test. I appreciate it a lot.

I am not sure what you mean by tanking the led?? I meant to make a tank circuit at the base of the transistor to the coil, and not at all to the light. ??

I only put the cap into the drawing of yours because you had it nearby. Gadget used the resistor at the base as a variable resistor and took it to almost 20k. His cap was 68pF. These 2 ie the resistor and small cap seem to be tuners to this part of the system, He is the one who used them as I re-drew your drawing.

Thank you,

jeanna

edit
I almost forgot this cool part.

This is a 4.86k resistor i'm using.  In the latter config, it's drawing 3.75ma.

add another light -or 30  - on your breadboard parallel to the first one and see if it isn't as bright. If it isn't add it in series.

Also, could you give me the turns count on all 3 coils, please?

thanks again,

jeanna

[Goat]

Hi All

Well I tinkered around with the transformer from the Fuji circuit instead of the toroid and it definitely has different properties see: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6933.msg161635#msg161635 , it can run a CFL and can light a neon on only one output wire!  Don't those take like 80 -90 VAC to light?  Anyway Jeanna you're right about the placement of components like the diode you mentioned where it has a decremental effect on the circuit, it's all about placement of components and tuning.

Edit:  I have achieved lighting a neon with 1 wire before and it was because of RF so I was told, I kind of agree but why only 1 wire and still enough voltage to light the neon?

Regards,
Paul

[jadaro2600]

Very nice, Jadaro.

I also found that the basic light goes out. I was encouraged to not let it bother me by MK1 who said just pull it out.

This is true. That light that is drawn into the basic jtc takes full energy from the system, however the light produced by the secondary (you called it the tertiary) is a free ride. It is here that I got 30 leds to light for the same juice. I could have lit more. I ran out at 30 leds. (And I stopped clocking them at 12 hours and the battery still had plenty left.) This is a very surprising configuration and very exciting.

You have now started to show that the ferrite may not be necessary.

Earlier, we were discussing the importance of having the right kind of ferrite. Perhaps the right kind of ferrite is a copper wire! 

Thank you for doing this test. I appreciate it a lot.

I am not sure what you mean by tanking the led?? I meant to make a tank circuit at the base of the transistor to the coil, and not at all to the light. ??

I only put the cap into the drawing of yours because you had it nearby. Gadget used the resistor at the base as a variable resistor and took it to almost 20k. His cap was 68pF. These 2 ie the resistor and small cap seem to be tuners to this part of the system, He is the one who used them as I re-drew your drawing.

Thank you,

jeanna

edit
I almost forgot this cool part.
add another light -or 30  - on your breadboard parallel to the first one and see if it isn't as bright. If it isn't add it in series.

Also, could you give me the turns count on all 3 coils, please?

thanks again,

jeanna

I stated in a previous post that the fluctuation in the copper toroid type would be purely mathematical based on current and wouldn't need to take into account variability in the ferrite ( paraphrasing, that is ).  This just seems logical - to have the voltage collecting coil surround the current in such a way that the collapsing field yields a voltage and any current flowing in it induces the needed shut-off opposition current to create oscillations in the circuit. 

Some of the earlier versions of my circuit did in fact use only copper wire ( http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6123.msg160711#msg160711 is one version of the circuit with copper only and this is the other http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6123.msg160678#msg160678 showing a closeup of that type of toroid. ).  If you read down the page a little on the second link, I've got this toroid lighting LED's in different places.

The one I've tested at your request is using a ferrite core.  I'll have to wind another toroid in order to fill your request - but happily - ...I'm apt for experimentation on this, it's the only circuit I seem to be able to get to work.  I didn't count the number of turns on the most recent one, I just went by length - the current carrying wire is half as long as the two other wires, one which is freely wound around the toroid  lighting the light and the other which is going to the collector.

If you look at these images, the circuit is different than the one most recently built.  I will be making a new toroid - one with an inner 'loop' around which will be two other loops ( to test the most previously assembled setup without using ferrite )  If all goes well, I'll post my results - including the exact number of windings, wire length, etc. for base reference.  I will be needing more LED's ...

Perhaps I misspoke - I meant tanking the resistor.  I the most recently wired circuit, tanking the resistor had a negative effect - here is a photo of this device.  Pin-outs on the toroid are hard to see, I'll avoid this in the future.

[xee2]

@ Goat

Edit:  I have achieved lighting a neon with 1 wire before and it was because of RF so I was told, I kind of agree but why only 1 wire and still enough voltage to light the neon?

The Fuji transformer will also light a small fluorescent tube with one wire (but not very bright). This was posted previously in this thread.