Joule Thief

[electricme]

@Bill,
ha ha ha, yes, the photos dont lie.

Jim:

435 volts?  Wow!  I really have to make one of these.  Don't want to touch that one with the fingers.

Bill

Just remember, this thing is getting to the stage where everyone will have to be careful with it, expecially if you intend to load up capacitors with it, because it has punch.

Hazens1 bless his soul, and I have both received fair wallops off this circuit.

Now, heres a clue, can yo all figure it out, how to get more out of this circuit?

Bill, your above post is 200v lowerthan my best, 
I have been able to raise the voltage to OVER wait for it, 600volts.     

Do I hold the record so far the highest output from any toroid on the forum so far?
If I dooooo then it wont be long before someone here brakes it in this forum.

OK a pic to proove it, its a little dim as I was in a rush, add 3 more volts to this what you see to see what I saw before I took the photo. 

[electricme]

@Gadget,

Nice to see you again, and that is a lovely looking coil!!! will it work he he..

@All
Hi Guys . I have been very busy and sorry have not posted in a while . i am still on page 551
@Hazen1
     Man you have got to be kidding ! Here is my replication of your 3 - 7- 150 and i only got  2 volts    .. there must be a direction of turns that is missing . . I am Ticked because that was a pain to wind . tell me the directions of turns for 3 and 7 and 150 . mine are all cw .. I am using your exact parts and wire ,

GADGET

Here's the trick to getting some volts out of Hazens1 coil replication, and I'm sure everyone will be interested in this.


Gadget, I did what you did, (I assume that is), I measured the output on my DMM, without the diode and ceramic capacitor in place, I also read a low voltage, like 10v, I didnt think this was cool at all, and thought I had made a big mistake. (but I hadnt).
The transistor and the LED was getting HOT.

It turns out the LED is sinking/soaking up at least 100 volts.

Then I added Hazens1 second part of the circuit, 1N4004 and the pF cap and my volts shot up through the roof.

Try it my friend, I think you will be surprised.

Another thing is to, don't use a electro capacitor, use a ceramic as Hazens1 suggests, a 105k ceramic, I havent got any of them so I (cheated again) and used a 104k ceramic capacitor.

I also (cheated again siiiii) and wound 270turns on my secondary, on two layers.
3 turns on the base coil, 7 turns on the collector coil.
I used a 2N3055 transistor as I didn't have a TIP31 darlington transistor.

I also did something that I shouldnt have (but I did), I joined a second length of same size wire, just solded the ends, then used nail polish (clear stuff called ARTMATIC Nail Enamel Vernis a ongles) to insulate the wire, then used a single layer of black insulation tape to insulate the join properly.Then I wound over the 1st layer up and back to the start of the original wire.



jim
 

[xee2]

@ electricme

To get more vots out just add more turns to the pickup coil and/or reduce base resistor value. However, there is a lower limit to base resistor value after which the voltage starts to decrease.

[gadgetmall]

CW, CCW, should not matter. I can flip my coil over and it goes from CW to CCW.

I wind mine over the top through the hole, under then back over the top CCW usually. This could also be explained the opposite way... Wind under then through the hole over the top then back under CW.

The winding direction is a complete circle starting with the base, then the collector, then the pickup until I hit the base then I go back with the pickup until I hit the collector again and I'm done.

What Transistor with what resistor are you using?

I am hooking up the base and collector coil wires that are in between the base and collector coil to the posistive. The base (Green) goes to the resistor then the base of the tranny. The collector (Red) goes straight to the collector of the tranny.

Also, did you check with the ends of the coils not twisted. Sometimes I end up with a short where they are twisted and it messes it up.

Hope this helps.

I have to say i am stumped . Using ***edit***tip31 and tried 10ohms all to way up to one meg checked for shorts . nope . i untwisted them . o well . i have a bad headache now .ready to see what a hammer does to it :)bet it will spark then . thanks for the reply .

One question .. when you wound the 150 did you go backwards after you hit the end ? . i did . when i ran out of space i just continued the same direction over the and in between until i met the beginning .. I also tried 2n3904 and tip 121 . arrrh . I will try the diode and cap . i am using ceramic caps though ..

Hi Jim !!!!
thanks for the tips .. I can't imagine what the heck .. I have been dealing with low input stuff for so long now its permanent   


Gadget

[electricme]

@all

How did I manage to get 636 volts out of Hazens1 circuit?

When Hazens1 drew it up he placed just 1 x 1N4004 diode and ceramic cap in series, this will rectify the AC and give you the DC, but this is "pulsed" DC, it loads up the ceramic almost instantly.

I got to thinking, there are 2 wires out so if we are rectifying 1 output, then theres a second component that is being wasted.

I then thought, if I put a bridge rectifier across this, then I would get out more, but I held back and did something that others here have not done.

With a AC output, you can configure the circuit to
       become a     POSITAVE HIGH     +
       then have a  Zero or 0 or earth  0
       with a Neg - NEGATIVE LOW      -

eg             (+) to  0  to  (-)    configuration

So I made up the DIODE - cap as seen in the Hazens circuit,
Then I made an identical second copy, and solded the diode - cap with
the cap joined to the 2nd wire output of the secondary.

  0732 = circuit I altered to match up with Hazens1 circuit
  0733 is a closeup of this circuit.

To connect to the output of this circuit,
The Positive is atatched between the top Diode and cap
The 0 point volt is the center tap
The Negative is attatched between the bottom diode and the cap.

There are 3 sets of output power here.
Between the (+) and the (0)    is the     1st Test Point
Between the (0) and the (-)    is the     2nd Test Point
Between the (+) and the (-)    is the     3rd Test Point

Voltages between + and 0      should be the same between 0 and -
Voltages between + and -      should be higher, but under double.

Oh yes, I intend to replace the 2 diodes with 1N4007s because this is approaching 1N4004 ratings.

I appolagise for not using Tiny Cad, someone took all my fancy cymbles away and it's stuck on a blank screen.

jim