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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 41 Guests are viewing this topic.

Mk1

@Cap-Z-ro

You seem to have problems with disclose.tv .

I am not sure there is anything i can do , it looks to be working for others ?

Disclose is a great site not yet bias or censored.

Keep the good work , you make Canadian proud !

Mark from qc

Cap-Z-ro


I do hope my isp is not selectively blocking sites...requires some inquires on my part it wood seem.

Thanks for your supportive words Mark.

Regards...


resonanceman

Quote from: jeanna on September 17, 2009, 04:29:07 PM
I wonder if the 4 groups are in parallel. I mean 4 sets of 22 leds each in parallel.
If this is what they are using, and from watching the behavior of some of mine, I think this is likely, you can very easily and right now make a 90 led array which is only using  a very little voltage. My general electric yard lights use a chip and not a toroid too. A timer chip is all you need for 1-4 lights. If 4 lights is replaced by 4 sets of 22 lights each set in parallel, it is easily explained.

Is your light made for 3 volts or more? I know you described it before, but I forget that part.



Jeanna

The  4 sets of LEDs  all  have  one  common  connection in the center of the  array ......so they  have to be in parallel

I do not  know   the  original  operating  voltage .
I should  have  checked it  but  I did not .
The  original  voltage for the  60 LED array  is  84 V    it is  divided  into 2 sections  with  one  connection in  common.


Quote

Stubblefield showed that it can be done with a hunk of iron, but the material and shape of the toroid are so much more powerful, I keep on using them.
I did use a (non-galvanic) Stubblefield coil as a joule thief and it worked splendidly, so it is not necessary to use an actual store bought toroid.

I am now beginning to think that there must be very complex waves and powerful inductance (=energy) when you make a bifilar spiral of iron around an iron core. It may be the essential part of the stubblefield coil and not the galvanic  part. In fact, it may be just fine to leave the galvanic part out??

Sometimes this kind of thing keeps me awake at night! And kind of belongs on the bifilar specs page too!

jeanna

Jeanna

I  have found   that a JT can be made  with almost anything .....or even no core at all.

I do agree that the  Stubbfield  configuration might   have some special  properties that  might help  it  work as a JT .

As far  as  I can see .....the only reason to  use the galvanic  side of the  Stubblfield coil is to  demonstrate OU ,. ....  it can  be self powering .

In my opinion   the  galvanic  effect should not  be used  in  a long term  OU application .  The  galvanic  effect will slowly  consume   the  iron in the  unit making it unstable in the long run .

I do not  remember  reading about your  Stubblfield JT     did  you  use  the iron  winding  for one of the   JT primarys ? 

I did not save  a " normal " stubblefield  coil
I did  try my bifilar  pancake  coil as JTs
They did  work .......but  I could not  get much  interaction between pancakes .
I had hoped  that I could use one as  primarys and another as pickup .



The  more I think about  a Stubbfield  battery  as a JT the more I like it 

:)

In real life  it would  be much like  my LM coils ........except    you can build   the  core into the  unit anywhere   you want to put  the  iron  and  copper bifilar windings.

Was  it Gadget  that said there was more  power  with the core on the outside?

With  a heavy  iron  core in the center ...... then the  secondary   and  a bifilar  primary  on the outside .....the  flux just might  jump  back and forth  between the  main  iron core and the   outer  core made  of the iron  wire .


gary

jeanna

Gary,
I found it. I did this back in june.
The first pic shows the led in the basic spot lighting (I think basic)
The next is a scopeshot off the secondary.
You can see a ring on the scope shot the peaks are both made up of rings.

My notes say (I assume off the secondary cuz I only ever do that)
3.63v with the bjtl
10.73v no light

then I removed the core.(I had made these non galvanic types on a bolt which was inside a straw, so I could remove the core.)
4.5v -- no core
Then since the wire in the pic makes this a step down I tried something YOU told me about and I stuck a spool of red mag wire around the bottom... just to the other coiled secondary. The volts were
35.9v -- no core.

I think this is pretty cool.

I didn't put in my notes how I connected the wires. I assume the end of one to the beginning of the other like a normal jt.

jeanna


electricme

@ Gary
Quote from: resonanceman on September 17, 2009, 04:12:45 PM
Jim

If you have a few minutes  can  you check out  this  scope  for me ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170361338511&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching

I want  something   with  reasonable  input voltage .......... 
Reasonable  speed  ........
2 channels  is nice .


For  these things  it looks  like  with  most scopes  I would have  to pay  close to twice the price to get them all  at the same  specs



Am  I missing  something?

gary

Edit

One  possible  negative  of this particular link
When   I clicked on  Optional  battery ........  it  downloads  the  USB  manual .

On  another  site   a  similar scope  with the same   numbers  but  EDU  in front  of  the numbers     had  an  option  for the  scope  with  a battery .   it was about $100 more .
Kind of  expensive for a  battery .

Hello Gary, I took a look at this web site link you provided, it seems to have what you are looking for, and should be suitable.

The battery link does point to the pdf on the scope, but there is no reference to the battery as you pointed out.

Seems you could use this on a USB main PC and could use it on an older laptop, the screen resolution (pixels) 640 x ? is a bit on the largerish side but would display the waveform OK.

I like the idea it can be battery powered, as you could take it to the work in the garden, unlike me, I just ran some extension leads to my scope.
One thing lacking was a utility to "null out" 50Hz or 60Hz, but mabe scopes dont have this, but sound jockies can get these things to stop mains hum from being a problem. Hmm now you got me thinking.....

I like the idea of being able to record the data in a databank, and being able to display it on the PC screen, top idea that.

Give these people a email and ask them to answer any questions you may still have, perhapse they could "software" some solutions also.


Anyway Gary, the final decision is yours, and price can be the key in many instrument purchases.

jim
 
People who succeed with the impossible are mocked by those who say it cannot be done.