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[Light]

tropes, Low-Q
I agree with you. It’s open source, and everyone have rites to speak. They yelling “eureka” and “selfrunnind” based on nothing. I’ve built all these concepts and designs and none of it is FE or OU or SR (selfrunning), but just regular transformers and pulse chargers which one can find on stores’ shelves.
But if it makes them happy, why to argue?
Just do your own stuff…

[nievesoliveras]

@gadgetmall

You and @pirate are truly good friends when a friend is needed!!!!!!

@lowq
thank you for your participation on this thread.

@tropes
Thank you for your participation on this thread.

@light
thank you for your participation on this thread.

I want to say something.
I was asking myself why a forum member named Dr. Stffler was so mad.
Now that I have attained some level of success I know why.

Are you aware that I can lock this topic and nobody can post in it?

From now on, if you are not replicating my work or contributing with constructive ideas the only answer you will get is:
@Your name here:  thank you for your participation on this thread.

Jesus

[nievesoliveras]

@ nievesoliveras

Today I am trying to replicate your great work but I am having some difficulty with the coil, which is the heart of your design. On the schematics I see that you have a 16 turns and 13 turns. Is the 16 the one with the aluminum and the 13 with the enameled wire? and Is the aluminum going to the collector and  and the base of the transistor?

Yes, you got it right!

Is the enameled connect how?

The enameled wire 13 turns of it in my case is wounded as a single winding. The two legs of the wire go to the rectifier.
It is not really needed. But it helps.
What I did was what @jeanna did with her joule thief coil.

You turn the motor with the joule thief circuit and the 4 charging batteries in place. Then you take 16 inches of enameled wire and with the ends already sanded, introduce it through the toroid coil and attach a meter to the sanded ends. If the ac output is less than 2v,  disconnect the meter and keep winding the enameled thread thorugh the toroid. Measure again and when you get between 2.5 and three volts stop and connect the diode from the rectifier to the charging batteries positive.

Remember that is the way I did it.  You could try to wind the enameled wire for a higher voltage output. It is up to you.

I only see on the schematics one wire but where is the other wire going? I could not figure it out looking at the pictures. Would you be able to take a very close picture of the toroid please?

Many thanks in advance,

Fausto

Just do what I explained first.
If you have problems ask me again.

About the close up of the toroid coil, the closest I can get without it becoming a blur is those photos posted.

Jesus

Edit:

Respect to the 13 turns that I made it to no higher than 3v, it was because I was using it initially with a diode directly connected to the 1.5v source battery and I did not want that a higher output voltage connected to the battery could damage the battery. Then I notice that the connection was not working properly like that and I connected the diode to the charging battery instead. That is why it is optional.
But to use it as a charger for the charging batteries the turns should be made on a way that the output voltage exceeds the battery pack voltage.
so a good output would be around 7v. Even though it is not needed because the toroid coil gives out 38v.

[plengo]

@nievesoliveras
I like the fact that you can lock the thread, we need that if it looses control.

I am a little bit puzzled now about the coil still. I got that the second 13 turns is optional. Now, I thought that that 13 turns was the one that goes to the center of the coil on the schematics. Look at the picture modified. I understand by looking at it that you have the terminal 3 and 4 connected together making the whole coil a 3 ends coil.  Is my modified picture correct (green arrow) ?

And is this the cable you used: http://cordsplus.com/pages/vga_cables.html  ?

Many thanks again.

Fausto.

[nievesoliveras]

@nievesoliveras
I like the fact that you can lock the thread, we need that if it looses control.

I am a little bit puzzled now about the coil still. I got that the second 13 turns is optional. Now, I thought that that 13 turns was the one that goes to the center of the coil on the schematics. Look at the picture modified. I understand by looking at it that you have the terminal 3 and 4 connected together making the whole coil a 3 ends coil.  Is my modified picture correct (green arrow) ?

And is this the cable you used: http://cordsplus.com/pages/vga_cables.html  ?

Many thanks again.

Fausto.

It does seem correct. Just remember to take one bare wire from one side and one covered wire from the other side and join them. That is the joule thief center tap. There should be one bare and one covered left. It is just as a bifilar joule thief toroid coil as your drawing.

That cable you show on your link is not the one I used but if it has bifilar strands inside it can be used.

The one I used was taken from the cable that comes from the source power of the house to a monitor. When I opened the discarded monitor there was three aluninum wires around a long toroid and I saw that the cables were comming from the cable mentioned.

That was what turned on my inventor's mind. I asked myself, what would happen if I built a toroid coil with it, and the rest is history thanks to @pirate's counseling about the battery conditioning needed....

Jesus