Magnetic "Free Energy" designs released - finally!

[PaulLowrance]

Hi,

If you want to do this again, you have to supply some heat. In an experiment with an Orbo, currents of air in the room could easily provide enough heat to reset the material so that after a short while it could repeat the Sv transaction all over again.

I'm not sure what you're referring to there. Perhaps a different design? In my designs there's no requirement of heated air. A field from the coil is applied, which causes the material to magnetize, which releases energy in the form of heat and various other areas such as due to magnetocrystalline anisotropy. This is due to MCE. Lets say the net field in the material is 5000 Gauss. No more than 1/4th of that field is caused by the coils current. When the coil field is removed, and when the other magnetized rod moves into place, the net magnetic field is greater than 5000 Gauss. The amount depends on the exact design, but is typically anywhere between 1.7 to over 2 times. If it's 1.7 times, then the net field in the core is 5000*1.7 = 8500 Gauss. It is well known that when the magnetic field is removed, the core temperature drops because it requires ambient thermal energy to increase the disorder-- MCE. Since the field is 1.7 times higher, it requires significantly more ambient thermal energy to break the ferromagnetic bonds due to the increase field to increase the disorder.

PL

Edit: Changed a bunch of stuff.

[PaulLowrance]

Here's a thought. Perhaps hairspray will do a great job at coating the MIG welding wire. Hairspray is flexible, tough, and dries almost instantly. Oh well, this method of pre-cutting the welding wires and lining them up to be sprayed/coated will waste a small amount of MIG wire because once the wires are coated, then they will need to be bent to form the core, placed into position, and trimmed.

Should I recommend scented hairspray. 

PL

[resonanceman]

Question on coating metal wire:

Someone was asking a good, but simple method of coating the MIG welding wire. The welding wire comes copper coated. After a bit of thought, using a spray can of paint would work, but it's a bit awkward in that the wire would have to be pre-cut and lined up for painting. It would be nicer to have a brush or sponge, and then simple bush/wipe a coating on the wire before cutting the wire off the spool. That way, the coated wire could be positioned inside and then cut to correct length. If the wire needs to be cut before hand, then it will need to be cut extra long because once the wire is positioned into place it needs to be cut to exact length.

In short, spray can method would waste some wire. So, what kind of liquid would work best in coating the MIG wire? Some sort of a varnish?  Or perhaps acrylic paint? Or a stain? Something that is found at a local hardware store is recommended.

Also, this method should be quick drying because the person needs to make hundreds of small MIG wires to form the core.

Thanks,
PL

Paul

I have been thinking about ways to coat wire .

Building a wire coater   is on my to do list .

I  have a motor that is out of a microwave ,.......  it  is the one that  turns the  plate .

I am not real sure that I can explain  how to make the coater  but I will try .

starting  with 2  cylinders  that are  just big enough to fit into the center of  the coil of wire to be coated 
The  cylinders should be mounted horizontally at least  5 or 8 ft apart ..... they  will  both be driven  by  a shaft  that is  connected to the  microwave  turntable  motor

The  shaft  between the  cylinders  should  be  around 6 to 8 inches   above the cylinders

The  cylinders  should  be mounted on the insides of   support  beams  ......the  cogs or pullys  driving the   cylinders  should be on the outsides of the support beams .

The  coil of wire  will be  placed on one  of the cylinders .
Both  the cylinders  will  be rotated .
The  wire  will  " roll "  off the  inner  edge of the cylinder .
A  set of wheels or something  will have to be used  to keep  the  whole coil  from  sliding off the  cylinder .
I am planning on using  roller blade wheels....

As  the cylinders  are rotated ........ the  wire will roll  past the  roller blade wheels   still keeping  its shape ......it will be like a rolling slinky .
Just  after  the  end of the first  cylinder  there would be a small  trough of   what  you plan on coating the wires with .
I plan on using  shellac for the most part ......but paint would work too .

As the cylinder rotates  the  wire "slinky "  will rotate through the  trough of  paint and then  droop down

It can be  ran  just hanging  there a short time  .........then a sting needs to be  attached to the end ....The end  of the wire must be  bent to  the center of the  " slinky "   if it is to continue to rotate smoothly .

The  slack  in the sting  will need to  be  taken up  every few minutes ........untill  there is enough " slinky " coated  to reach the sencond cylinder .

The cylinders  should be rotated slow enough and the  cylinders  should be far enough apart so that the wire has dried by the time it gets to the  second cylinder .

The  end of the  wire should  be attached to the  outer edge of the  second cylinder .
The skateboard wheel  will catch the  wire as  it  rotates past 

Once the  end of  the wire is secured  the whole  coil should simply rotate from one   cylinder to the  other . .....
The only thing to watch for is   running out of  what you are coating  it with and  the end  of the wire   falling  off the  first  cylinder and hitting the ground  while it is still wet .


When it is all  done you  will end up  with a loosely wound coil of  coated wire slightly larger in diameter  than what you started with.




Some of   my knowledge of  how this  can work comes  from  running a wire draw machine  years ago .
We welded  the wire  up to the next coil  as the machine  ran ......the  weld  went through the machine  and  started the next coil  without stopping      Of course  you  have to make sure that  the end  hasn't  slipped under another  loop  of wire .....if it did  you end up  with a knot .

I have  coated a little bit of  wire by  rotating  it by hand through a  trough  of  shellac 
Because  the  wire is rotating   while it  dries  the coating is  pretty smooth .......unless  it  touches  something  before it  is dry
.

gary

[PaulLowrance]

Thanks for wealth of info Gary. That's an elaborate design. The only thing is it needs to work for steel wire, so it's more difficult to bend. For steel, it may be easier just to dip the wire by hand, unless one is going to be making a lot of "free energy" devices.

Thanks for telling me about shellac. A little reading at wikipedia shows this is a good choice. I wondering if hairspray has any shellac or something compound. Do you know how fast shellac dries?

PL

[resonanceman]

Hi Gary,

I'm not a big fan of HV, unless absolutely necessary because in order for it to be half way efficient one needs to use relatively thick electrically insulated wire with HV breakdown. Also, more windings equates to more parallel capacitance. Maybe I'm wrong, but I prefer high current over high voltage. MOSFET's are our friends.   If there's too much losses in one MOSFET, then place two MOSFET's in parallel, or three, or four, until the losses are low enough. Just make sure the MOSFET's are properly driven and it will be great.

Can you tell, I love MOSFET's. 

PL

Paul

My  ideas  were geared  toward  flyback  and  radiant  energy .
In my opinion   high  voltages  and  what  Tesla called disruptive  discharge is  required for radiant energy .
I think disruptive  discharge   would  be very difficult to achieve with low voltage .

gary