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Overunity Machines Forum



Real OU-Effect to Share with everyone!!!

Started by Magnethos, February 02, 2009, 08:37:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 7 Guests are viewing this topic.

nievesoliveras

Quote from: duff on March 13, 2009, 08:23:41 AM
With reference to the above drawaing: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6734.msg162581#msg162581

I did some initial testing of the circuit with poor results. The battery voltage fluctuates wildly (mostly negative). Putting a scope across the battery shows 20+ volt spikes, both positive and negative in the same instant. I think the fluctuation are due to the load placed on the battery as the three brushes hit the shorting bar. I varied the motor speed between 300/800 rpms and  did not observe any charging effect.


The commutators were made of a 3/4" copper plumbing coupling, filled with JB Weld and then drilled & threaded so as to screw onto the motor shaft. Three channels were then cut so as to isolate the brush from each other and a shorting bar left intact so the three brushes connected when crossing. For the brushes I used #24 copper magwire with the ends bare (copper to copper contact).


With reference to the wire in the circuit that  seemingly shorts the capacitor ( In the drawing its the middle brush). I already made comments about it in two previous posts but as it turns out it does NOT prevent the capacitor from charging (obviously the circuit works) but I found that totally non-intuitive.


-Duff


What do you think about adding two diodes to rectify the electricity going in and out of the capacitor?

Jesus

Zigis

duff, what you mean with poor results? Do you can't charge cap to high voltage, or charged cap can't charge battery?
Maybe try to separate both steps first.
I ask, because I try small relay, and cant repeat hand hiting result, cap simply not charge.
I think, maybe all three contacts not need to be perfectly in one time, maybe ground disconnect first, and cap and coil small bit later? However this is only my speculation.
Zigis.

duff

Quote from: nievesoliveras on March 13, 2009, 10:52:17 AM
What do you think about adding two diodes to rectify the electricity going in and out of the capacitor?

Jesus

@Jesus

I tried putting one diode as you show at the negative terminal of the battery but that did not seem to produce charging. I will try a  second as you have shown at the commutator tonight.

These are just preliminary results.

Quote from: Zigis on March 13, 2009, 11:19:26 AM
duff, what you mean with poor results? Do you can't charge cap to high voltage, or charged cap can't charge battery?
Maybe try to separate both steps first.
I ask, because I try small relay, and cant repeat hand hiting result, cap simply not charge.
I think, maybe all three contacts not need to be perfectly in one time, maybe ground disconnect first, and cap and coil small bit later? However this is only my speculation.
Zigis.

@Zigis

I can charge a cap to 340V using the technique demonstrated by NRG.

I don't yet know if the commutator is producing the same results.  I do know the commutator is not charging the battery. So, by poor results I mean it is not charging the battery.

I've got to simplify the setup and determine if the commutator is producing the same results.


@all

Here is a little bit more info about my setup:

The shorting bar was a calculated length based on the RL time constant and angular velocity, so  varying the speed effects how the inductor charges.

Also, I'm NOT using an loosely wound inductor. I'm using a  trifilar with two of the winding connected together. The third is not being used. The core is 3/4" in diameter and made of welding wire. Since I got the capacitor to charge using the hand tapping method I went ahead and used it in the initial test.


-Duff

PaulLowrance

Quote from: duff on March 13, 2009, 12:49:49 PM
I tried putting one diode as you show at the negative terminal of the battery but that did not seem to produce charging.

Quote from: duff on March 13, 2009, 12:49:49 PMI can charge a cap to 340V using the technique demonstrated by NRG.


You need to make sure your diode has well over 340V reverse breakdown. Not too many diodes can handle that much voltage.

PL

poynt99

Close SW1 so that it always remains connected to the metal plate. Insert a diode as shown (becomes SW1 in a sense).

Now again perform the hand switching action with the remaining alligator lead SW2 to the metal plate.

I will venture to say that you will get similar "good" results, but they should be more consistent.

.99
question everything, double check the facts, THEN decide your path...

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