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Overunity Machines Forum



First electrical power output from a Pyramid

Started by hartiberlin, January 18, 2006, 05:32:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 16 Guests are viewing this topic.

Walter Hofmann

Hi all
I forgot to mention that all my tests are done without covering the pyramide frame.
greetings
walt

MT

Quote from: Walter Hofmann on December 12, 2007, 05:10:55 PM
Hi neptun from frosty england we have 28 degree C here,
my tablesaw has plastic caster is also insulated from the floor and between the cast isorn table and the pyramid frame is thick cardboard another insulation.
I had another expierience I did wana try to adjust one of the rods to fixate it and brook it but I did not realiese it right a way and then I took measurements  and I can tell you the rod was broken about 40 mm from the top and had no connection to the other part of the rod and the DVM still showed the fluctuating Voltage of 0.23 to 0.45V. but the other side rod was perfeckt. I also used a analog Voltmeter to find out if the DVM shows the right value and it did show the same even if it is hard to read with this jumping of the needle
OK maybe somebody ca try something of this and confirme or not
greetings
walt
Hi
very interesting what you see together with magpower. I'll certainly try it just dont have pyramide yet, still buidling it (doing base with screws need it flexible), problem is time I'm traveling this weekend and will all preparations I cant finished it now. I estimate to get back to building next tuesday  :(
Anyway this could be proof of principle. So you get this fluctuating voltage and if you take that copper frame out of pyramide then voltage effect stops?
Having pyramide I would try to just cut short piece of copper tube close it on one side put sand + salt water and rod. then measure voltage from rod to pyramide frame and try different positions of it within and outside. I would also make photos or better video. But thats what I would do maybe you have better ideas.
If you can please dont go silent I dont know what to expect from internet anymore.
have a nice day,
MT

Gustav22

I have also build a pyramid and a V6 converter.
Unfortunately I can not yet observe a voltage rise when I place the converter in the pyramid.

I connected each graphite rod to the upper end of a coil and then I connected the lower end of each coil to opposite face-plates of the capacitor.

So my converter basically consists of three electrical  units. These are:

- short graphite rod + coil A + capacitor plate A
- long graphite rod + coil B + capacitor plate B
- tubular U-frame

After adding the salt water I read the following values (regardless whether the converter is inside or outside the pyramid):
- capacitor plate A to capacitor plate B: 0.01 V
- capacitor plate (A or B) to tubular U-frame: 0.1 V
The U-frame is always negative. I find this remarkable. Does anyone have similar values?

- capacitor plate A to apacitor plate B: 70 kOhm
- short graphite rod to tubular U-frame: 10 kOhm
- long graphite rod to tubular U-frame: 2 kOhm

I don't know:
- which part of the converter should be grounded (i.e. be attached to the grounded pyramid frame) ?
- which part of the converter should be floating (i.e. be neither connected to ground nor to the load) ?
- which side of the pyramid can best be left open during testing (N, S, E, W) ?
- should the converter be mounted so that the plates of the capacitor face N and S or should they face E and W ?
money for rope

Walter Hofmann

Hi gustav,
like I said I did not have the coils or capacitor connected to the frame . this comes next. maybe you got a short in the capacitor. I would recommend disconnect the coils and the cap and then measure the voltage inside the pyramide and outside and you should see inside the pyramide at the center about 180 to 220mm high insulated from the pyramide a fast fluctuating voltage of about 0.2 to 0.4V the voltmeter connected negative to pyramide frame and pos to ether one of the graphite rods. outside the pyramide there is pretty much nothing max was a had was 0.04V.
the converter should not be groundet at all that one mein issue. I have the u-frame facing north better 5 degree NNE what means the capacitor should face the same.
I would say the south side should be left open for first check but I have not coverd my pyramide fvrame jet and when I cover it I will put hinges on this seite to find out if a totally closed pyramide changes any value. but first I will test all components without a cover.
just check the voltage on the tubular frame to each of the rods tubular negative and ether rod to positive ther should show something like 0.4 to 0.7V.
maybe this helps
greetings
walt


Quote from: Gustav22 on December 13, 2007, 03:31:44 AM
I have also build a pyramid and a V6 converter.
Unfortunately I can not yet observe a voltage rise when I place the converter in the pyramid.

I connected each graphite rod to the upper end of a coil and then I connected the lower end of each coil to opposite face-plates of the capacitor.

So my converter basically consists of three electrical  units. These are:

- short graphite rod + coil A + capacitor plate A
- long graphite rod + coil B + capacitor plate B
- tubular U-frame

After adding the salt water I read the following values (regardless whether the converter is inside or outside the pyramid):
- capacitor plate A to capacitor plate B: 0.01 V
- capacitor plate (A or B) to tubular U-frame: 0.1 V
The U-frame is always negative. I find this remarkable. Does anyone have similar values?

- capacitor plate A to apacitor plate B: 70 kOhm
- short graphite rod to tubular U-frame: 10 kOhm
- long graphite rod to tubular U-frame: 2 kOhm

I don't know:
- which part of the converter should be grounded (i.e. be attached to the grounded pyramid frame) ?
- which part of the converter should be floating (i.e. be neither connected to ground nor to the load) ?
- which side of the pyramid can best be left open during testing (N, S, E, W) ?
- should the converter be mounted so that the plates of the capacitor face N and S or should they face E and W ?

Walter Hofmann

Hi all,
did anybody allready try to use one  of the air variable capacitors like the was in the old radios used for tuning ? they come in different values up to 500pF what should be somehow in the range of the copper capacitor.
I dont have one but I will find one and try this I am just courious if somebody has try it jet.
greetings
walt