First electrical power output from a Pyramid

[skywatcher]

In the Video TT posted two years ago, the fan he was using as load was running with one side of the pyramid being uncovered.

[Gustav22]

I think I made a mistake and I have to bring up a problematic point before more people make the same mistake.
Please note Thomas' original instructions for V6:

...Mittels Kupferrohr ca. 12mm wird ein U-F?rmiger Korpus hartgel?tet.
2 T-St?cke verbinden diesen Korpus an der Oberseite....

Here TT says, that the tubular copper frame has to be hard soldered

The German speaking builders can look up the difference between normal 'l?ten' und 'hartl?ten' here:
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%C3%B6ten

The English speaking may want to consider this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing

In short:
When we use normal electrical solder, then this solder, which is made of tin and lead, will probably run into the tubes and contaminate them, unless everybody takes the utmost care to prevent this.

You have to decide yourselves if you think this is relevant.
But I see in in the photos of the V4 (this is how TT calls this version in the old video) on the first page of this thread, that the lower pipe elbows of the tubular frame practically show no sign of tin solder.

[MT]

the pipes for the converter are regular 1/2 inch copper pipes what has a inside diameter of 12.25mm, thats what TT has described.

I think he meant pipes which have an outside diameter of 12 mm (inside: 10 mm). If you build the converter using these pipes, and using the measurements of 100 mm (width) and 120 mm (height) then the proportions look slightly different. But maybe this is not important for the functionality. Also, in the original plan, the coils should have an inside diameter of 25 mm, so they are NOT wound closely around the pipes, but have about 6 mm space to the surface of the pipe.

This is my converter ('classic' construction with wire outlet on the sides   ):

Thanks @sky thats what I meant (tube has 12mm outside diam), my converter dimensions looks exactly like yours only I'm not soldering (just candle wax-ing) and T parts are oriented upwards. At the moment it is not important for me to get V6 or similar I just want to replicate the effect @walter sees. Maybe that was TTs V1.

@Gustav22
Thanks for info about hard soldering.

have nice evening everybody,
MT

[neptune]

@MT I too noticed the reference to "hard soldering. " I took this to mean silver soldering which is used by model engineers to build steam boilers. II cant see why this would be necessary, as no high temperatures are involved. Not sure what MT means by contaminating the inside of the pipes. Soft soldering is used in domestic plumbing, although modern plumbers solder in the UK is "lead-free".
         I cant do much to my project at the moment due to family commitments. I keep looking at the V$ version, because at least we have a photo. It is a bit confusing because I believe we have a reed switch on the left side which is operated by a magnet. We now know that both reed and magnet are not needed. On page 2 of this subject, someone has drawn a diagram of the circuit of the v4. This shows one end of the main coil connected to ground.Can anyone see this ground on the photo?
       A lso, on the photo we see the 2 drain holes for the saltwater. These have been blocked by solder or glue. This suggests the presence of saltwater, and more than likely, sand and graphite as well. The strange thing is, that the 2 rods seem to be connected together as I previously said. Would anybody like to attempt a circuit diagram of v4 now we have a better idea what is inside it. Nother strange thing [unless I missed something] is that on the video, you cannot see if the fan is turning or not. All comments welcome.

[Walter Hofmann]

hi guys,
yes thats right in the picture and video it shows the lower portionof the U is not soldered just rivet. I only use siverbearing solder without lead.
maybe there is something to it with brazing I will try this tomorow we just can try. it is shame that we dont have a actual picture from TT's V6 version we could take much more out of it. I think the pipe diameter is not so much importand because TT sayds approximatly 12mm what is 1/2 inch. the outside measurements are pretty much the same we are talking a few mm difference it is maybe importand for max output bu to bring it to work at all should be not so importand, maybe I am wrong. will see.
I got another question for all who are so far did anybody see by filling the higher side with saltwater some coming out of the other side? I did not see it and it would mean the whole pipe has standing water, but htis would after TT description be a failure . I dont know.
maybe someone had some experience with this
greetings
walt

the pipes for the converter are regular 1/2 inch copper pipes what has a inside diameter of 12.25mm, thats what TT has described.

I think he meant pipes which have an outside diameter of 12 mm (inside: 10 mm). If you build the converter using these pipes, and using the measurements of 100 mm (width) and 120 mm (height) then the proportions look slightly different. But maybe this is not important for the functionality. Also, in the original plan, the coils should have an inside diameter of 25 mm, so they are NOT wound closely around the pipes, but have about 6 mm space to the surface of the pipe.

This is my converter ('classic' construction with wire outlet on the sides   ):

Thanks @sky thats what I meant (tube has 12mm outside diam), my converter dimensions looks exactly like yours only I'm not soldering (just candle wax-ing) and T parts are oriented upwards. At the moment it is not important for me to get V6 or similar I just want to replicate the effect @walter sees. Maybe that was TTs V1.

@Gustav22
Thanks for info about hard soldering.

have nice evening everybody,
MT