First electrical power output from a Pyramid

[duff]

@Walter

I have not completed the V6 but I have posted pictures of my progress in the photo section of the yahoo group.

When complete it I will post my results and if anything significant or successful I will post all my notes and pictures with a video in ONE post.

In the V6 white paper he does refer to sketches and we have all but sketch 1. I think sketch 1 was of the frame.

We do know that Thomas was upset on Dec 14 over the discussion here and something had been misinterpreted. So something is WRONG with the implementation as is was talked about in the discussion.

We have to determine what in the discussion upset Thomas. If we do then is will probably lead to a successful replication.

I think time would be better spend working on V6 rather than beginning work on another version. If we consider that the V6 white paper is correct because this is what Thomas released to protect himself, then if our implementation does not work we have to assume we've done something wrong. We have to try to determine what it is.


@neptune

Yes, I agree with you. Materials in different countries are manufactured to different specs. For example I had to use 3/4" (19.05mm) tubing on the frame because 20mm is not available here.

But I think for us to make major deviations on our initial build is a mistake.

Ok - here is one of the things I think upset Thomas.

It was the discussion over sand fill level. Actually I think neptune had it right.

Thomas states:

The energy pick-up tubing must now completely (however loosely!) filled with quartz sand

This is my personal opinion and it may be WRONG.

When he said completely, I believe he meant all the way to the top of the entire U-shaped structure including the top horizontal piece.

Why - because look at the construction steps that were laid out.
   1. Install left graphite rod
   2. Install left 2.5 mm (#10 wire) coil
   3. Install right graphite rod
   4. Bore fill holes for salt water solution
   5. Install right coil
   6. Install capacitor
   7. Hang unit in center of pyramid
   8. Fill with sand

Assumption: So he must have created small fill holes and allowed the sand to trickle in like an hour glass.

If this is true he has no way to determine the level until it is completely full.


@Gustav22

Are you referring to Thomas' statement that the graphite rods should be able to move and be hung up in a way so that their position is not fixed?

Thomas states:

On the opposite side put likewise a graphiterod (2-3mm diameter pencil rod) freely hanging into the tube.

As I approach this in my own construction I'm thinking this is what he meant. This would put less stress on the rods as the sand was put in but it might also allow the to move left or right. So some kind of restraint  needs to be in place so it can swing but not move right or left.


@skywatcher

I realize that there may be better ways to implement things but usually one establishes a basic working unit before one starts extrapolation.

I also have concerns over the accuracy of what Thomas released mainly because English was not his native language but I think he made an honest effort to share what he had discovered.


@all

I don't have the answers and I don't usually post much but I felt this effort was starting to loose some direction. I want us all to succeed and between everyone there is a lot of talent here.


-Duff

[neptune]

@Skywatcher. In your discussion about graphite and pencil rods, you refer to "motor coals" By this, I assume you mean the graphite electrodes used in DC electric motors to connect the supply to the armature via the commutator. In Great Britain, and also I believe the USA , we call these things "Carbon Brushes "  As a washing machine engineer, I use them every day, but have never seen any of suitable shape to be used for this converter.
           I am still studying the v4 photo. There are at least 2 places where the circuit looks like it may connect to the copper tube. One is just below the T piece at top left, and the other is the bare copper wire that seems to emerge from the capacitor [lower left corner] and go towards the blue thing. The hardest thing is trying to find the 2 output wires of the central capacitor. Your views would be very welcome.

[starcruiser]

Has anyone read this info on Les Brown? It may provide some additional insight. He (Les) mentions that the Pyramid must be built with exact dimensions relating to the great pyramid to get the best results. Also I read that the quartz sand is the storage medium for the energy and if this is accurate the graphite rods are taps to that energy. also the Pyramid base must be grounded to channel the energy from the apex to the collector/converter. If this is true then the collector is the storage unit (capacitor) and the work (voltage) is extracted from the connections to the converter and the ground.

It is/was also mentioned that the energy in the pyramid should be tapped otherwise it will discharge it self when it reaches a certain charge level then start over again. So I would assume this means a load should be connected to continue to draw energy. Just some of what I ran across.

I do plan on building a pyramid but want to do a bit more research to get several different perspectives on the building and operation.

Hope this is of some help in getting some results.

[skywatcher]

Thomas states:

The energy pick-up tubing must now completely (however loosely!) filled with quartz sand

This is my personal opinion and it may be WRONG.

When he said completely, I believe he meant all the way to the top of the entire U-shaped structure including the top horizontal piece.

Why - because look at the construction steps that were laid out.
   1. Install left graphite rod
   2. Install left 2.5 mm (#10 wire) coil
   3. Install right graphite rod
   4. Bore fill holes for salt water solution
   5. Install right coil
   6. Install capacitor
   7. Hang unit in center of pyramid
   8. Fill with sand

Assumption: So he must have created small fill holes and allowed the sand to trickle in like an hour glass.

You may be right regarding the point that also the upper section of the converter should be filled completely with sand.
This makes a lot of sense, and i will try it this way.

But i think with 'fill holes' he meant the small holes for filling the water into the lower part of the converter.   

For practical reasons, i will do it this way:

1. converter consists of two sections: the lower part (U-shaped section) and the upper part (double-T shaped sections)
2. both sections are soldered, but the junction between the two sections is not soldered to allow disassembly
3. drill the two filling holes in the lower part of the U-section (at different niveaus, as specified in TT's spec)
4. fill the lower part of the U-section with sand, up to a few mm above the lower end of the graphite rods
5. connect a small piece of copper wire to the top of the graphite rods to allow further contacting
6. stick the graphite rods a few mm into the sand, in the middle of the tubes, so that they can not drift away
7. fill rest of the sand into the U-section, always controlling that the graphite rods remain in the middle of the tubes
8. put together the U-section and the double-T section
9. install the coils and solder them to the graphite-rods (use the 10 mm holes on the top for soldering, see my pictures above)
10. close the right and left openings where the wires enter it, using plastilin or hot-glue
11. fill the rest of the converter (upper section) with sand using one of the 10 mm holes on the top (the other hole should be closed before)
12. close the last hole on top of the converter using copper foil and adhesive tape.
13. install the central capacitor and connect the coils
14. install the converter in the pyramid
15. fill salt water into the converter using the small holes at the lower side of the converter, according to TT's spec

BTW, in the plan made by 'Acerzw', which has been approved by TT, the sand is only in the U-shaped section of the converter.   

[skywatcher]

@Skywatcher. In your discussion about graphite and pencil rods, you refer to "motor coals" By this, I assume you mean the graphite electrodes used in DC electric motors to connect the supply to the armature via the commutator. In Great Britain, and also I believe the USA , we call these things "Carbon Brushes "  As a washing machine engineer, I use them every day, but have never seen any of suitable shape to be used for this converter.

Yes, carbon brushes is the right term. I think he meant to use raw material which is being used in workshops for making custom carbon brushes. This raw material has d diameter of 6 mm, and must be turned down to 2-3 mm, which is a very dirty business and also has the risk that the rods will break. I have tried it with thick graphite pencils i bought in an art-shop, and they broke every time.