First electrical power output from a Pyramid

[duff]

You may be right regarding the point that also the upper section of the converter should be filled completely with sand.
This makes a lot of sense, and i will try it this way.

But i think with 'fill holes' he meant the small holes for filling the water into the lower part of the converter.   

For practical reasons, i will do it this way:

1. converter consists of two sections: the lower part (U-shaped section) and the upper part (double-T shaped sections)
2. both sections are soldered, but the junction between the two sections is not soldered to allow disassembly
3. drill the two filling holes in the lower part of the U-section (at different niveaus, as specified in TT's spec)
4. fill the lower part of the U-section with sand, up to a few mm above the lower end of the graphite rods
5. connect a small piece of copper wire to the top of the graphite rods to allow further contacting
6. stick the graphite rods a few mm into the sand, in the middle of the tubes, so that they can not drift away
7. fill rest of the sand into the U-section, always controlling that the graphite rods remain in the middle of the tubes
8. put together the U-section and the double-T section
9. install the coils and solder them to the graphite-rods (use the 10 mm holes on the top for soldering, see my pictures above)
10. close the right and left openings where the wires enter it, using plastilin or hot-glue
11. fill the rest of the converter (upper section) with sand using one of the 10 mm holes on the top (the other hole should be closed before)
12. close the last hole on top of the converter using copper foil and adhesive tape.
13. install the central capacitor and connect the coils
14. install the converter in the pyramid
15. fill salt water into the converter using the small holes at the lower side of the converter, according to TT's spec

BTW, in the plan made by 'Acerzw', which has been approved by TT, the sand is only in the U-shaped section of the converter.   

When I said fill holes for the sand I was referring to drilling small holes in the top of the horzonal piece, which Thomas does not mention, but if the unit was already hanging then he had to have used additional fill holes.

It appears that Thomas was not very attentive to details - Yes that bothers me also. I noticed it numerous times in the forum. Maybe he was preoccupied or pressed for time.


-Duff

[neptune]

@ Tigrotto. You seem to constantly remind us that we are wasting our time.I remember that you once said that as a physicist, you had some theoretical understanding of how this might work. If you have this understanding, then you must have some idea where this energy comes from, and how to demonstrate its presence. If this is true, then it would be a good idea to share it with us. There is only one thing more boring than wasting time. And that is watching other people wasting time.
If you REALLY believe we are wasting time, why do you keep visiting these pages? No offence, I am just curious.

[Walter Hofmann]

Hi all,
maybe here is something encouraging. yesterday and Today I used a big so called "booster capacitor "like they use in car stereos with ! Farad 16/25V and connected them instead of the big plate capacitor with the original V6 converter but there was nothing happen no higher voltage. then I changed the whole setup to similar what I think is V4 what means both graphitew rods connected together and the beginning of the left coil and the end of the left coil with the beginning of the right coil, the end of the right coil with one pol of the "middle capacitor" and with the pos.pol from the "booster capacitor"and the DVM. the negative pole of the booster capacitor and the DVM connected to the pyramide frame. the pyramid frame is now on three side's coverd with 1/4 inch drywall ( rigips) and the result was that the booster capacitor was going from 0.035V start within 4 hours up to 0.735V.
I think thats something like a proof.
I have attached a picture sorry the mess it was just made as a quick test .
what do you guys say?
greetings
walt

[skywatcher]

@walt:

When i look at your picture, i see that both coils are left-handed.

One of them should be left-handed, but the other should be right-handed.

In TT's spec, the left-handed coil is on the side where the shorter graphite rod is.
(don't know if this has any significance)

Please look at Reply #752 on page 51 (by duff) there's a picture how it should look like.

Did you use the capacitor (charge and discharge) shortly before making the experiment ?
Sometimes capacitors are building up charge without getting any input from outside.
To be sure, it would be best to use two identical capacitors: one for charging, and the other (disconnected) as reference.

[Walter Hofmann]

hi skywatcher,
you are right with the coils now but I had to change them for the new setup what realy brought something up. sure I did discharge the capacitor for many hours with a 1 ohm resistor.
You know now after all this tests I believe like a few just mentioned too that TT did not really look in to his description especially in the details and that some points are maybe missing or interpreted wrong.
you are good you know what one of this booster capacitors cost??? hundrteds of dollars and this is to much for my shoestring budged.
Oh by the way here is a picture 1 hour later and the voltage is allready up to 0.774V
greetings
walt

@walt:

When i look at your picture, i see that both coils are left-handed.

One of them should be left-handed, but the other should be right-handed.

In TT's spec, the left-handed coil is on the side where the shorter graphite rod is.
(don't know if this has any significance)

Please look at Reply #752 on page 51 (by duff) there's a picture how it should look like.

Did you use the capacitor (charge and discharge) shortly before making the experiment ?
Sometimes capacitors are building up charge without getting any input from outside.
To be sure, it would be best to use two identical capacitors: one for charging, and the other (disconnected) as reference.