Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[vrand]

I have tried to use NST 9kv getting low brightness then tried with NST 6kv with better results but not as using MOT.I am back using high voltage ac with 0.1uf in parallel with MOT, connected before the spark gap.All my high voltage diodes destroyed after experimenting different configurations.I have tried different coil types, combination of winding coil like Stefan suggested but nothing like the existing one... yet.
Something is special about the existing coil,I don't know what but so far it works best. Tomorrow I will make another identical one using one 10mm wire for the middle of the coil.

Ok, thank you for checking this out!   

So it looks like around 2kV to 6kV is the "sweet spot" for this coil.   

Coil Q's:
- How many 10mm wires did you have in the middle of this coil? 
- In your new coil, will you also loop the 10mm wire in/out of one end of the tube, as shown on "woopy B" diagram?
- What is the insulation voltage rating of the wires?  600VAC?  Mfg of the wire?

Thanks, Mike

[Pirate88179]

Retrod:

Nice going.  We found out on the JT topic that those tubes can be lit up using mostly volts and the right frequencies and very little mA's.  We light them by exciting the gas inside and not heating the elements which does require power.  I, and others in our group, are able to light two 48" tubes end to end on an AA battery or an earth battery.

I just wanted to point this out in case you were not aware of it.  It is hard to tell by looking at these types of tubes which way they are being lit.  That is a lot of light no matter how you look at it.

Keep up the great work.

Bill

[vrand]

Second attempt. After this mornings smoke test I almost gave up. Then there were some encouraging posts and advice. Here is some progress to report. I noticed on my set-up it works much better with high resistance loads. I started with two 40w light bulbs in series and then thought to try fluro tubes. I am up to six tubes in series with the two original 40w lamps. All the fluro tubes were removed from service a year or more ago as dim or non lighting. It reminds me of when many of us were adding LED's in series working with Dr. Stifflers SEC, what fun!
I have no way right now to measure input current. The voltage out of the variac is 90 volts. The spark has become very quiet with this load. I may post a short video on youtube later.

Thank you for sharing your experiment, keep up the good work!

This is real usable light output vs LED's   

That spark at the SG is interesting.  I would be interested in seeing it on video if you have the time to video it.  The original video from Kapanadze, in the backyard with the buried car copper radiator, showed that tiny spark gap and the tiny sparks powering those 5- 100w light bulbs on the broom stick.

Regards, Mike

[romerouk]

Second attempt. After this mornings smoke test I almost gave up. Then there were some encouraging posts and advice. Here is some progress to report. I noticed on my set-up it works much better with high resistance loads. I started with two 40w light bulbs in series and then thought to try fluro tubes. I am up to six tubes in series with the two original 40w lamps. All the fluro tubes were removed from service a year or more ago as dim or non lighting. It reminds me of when many of us were adding LED's in series working with Dr. Stifflers SEC, what fun!
I have no way right now to measure input current. The voltage out of the variac is 90 volts. The spark has become very quiet with this load. I may post a short video on youtube later.

nice to see people getting there but remember to use your own ground connections, at least one of them must be to the ground not to a water pipe... it make 1000% difference.Using tubes is not going to get you very far.Use bulbs or bulbs with a heater, load the system heavy.I know that normal thinking is not to stress the MOT to much but you should act differently.Trust me, I am not giving advices  for fun, I will be really happy to see many other replications, everyone should share their results, someone failure might help others to progress.

Best Regards,
Romero

[romerouk]

Finally i have to buy a cheap Micro-oven to dismember it so as to conduct experiments!
...

I would  anyone here before starting to open the champagne bottle, to have a thorough investigation IF we are experiencing real OU or we estimate so.
As you can see by Naudin's site with his bulbs experiment (even hough Naudin talks NO about any OU yet- only implies) the bulbs are flickering and not fully bright.

The "not fully bright - but bright" approach is a quite tricky situation for the unexperienced and can easily lead to false conclusions.

...
i have make a draft setup of two light bulbs 75watts of nominal power being connected to 230v mains and video them. A first video shows one lamp alone working at 67watts and a second video shows both lamps working at 44watts.

Clearly in the second case each lamps works at 1/3 of the first case. Easily by mistaking brightness estimation and power usage anyone could be lead to think wrong

http://www.youtube.com/user/baroutologos#p/a/u/1/Ld8XxrpXOMQ
http://www.youtube.com/user/baroutologos#p/a/u/0/Pi6NRmxMs8w

...

I try to play Devil's advocate here, so as to be 100% sure than our experimenters have produced something real and not BS-ing each other.

By no means I meant to discourage anyone and being charged for MIB agent

You don't have an Recycle Electrical Centre there? You can get  MOT's, capacitors, diodes... for little money.
Try connecting 9x100w bulbs in series and connect them to the normal power socket. The bulbs light will be very dim.Maybe I  don't have full brightness but at least 60-70% I have for sure.Considering 1.15 to 1.6 amp at the input multiplied by 240v it shows some gain there anyway.
I will try to remember in my future video to connect all bulbs direct to the socket before then with the 'K' circuit and you can see a big difference.