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Overunity Machines Forum



Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

Started by Pirate88179, June 27, 2009, 04:41:28 AM

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NickZ

 @Pirate:
    Wow, that is good news.  I was just comenting on another thread about how magnetic energy is nice and not so electrifing. Great work.  You might want to check the Block wall thread and see what is going on there. I mentioned to GK of combining the Jt with a TPU set up to make a big brother JT, so we'll see how that goes. If it works out I have only you to blame.
                                                         NickZ

retrod

Quote from: vrand on June 11, 2010, 07:51:51 PM
Thank you for sharing your experiment, keep up the good work!

This is real usable light output vs LED's   ;D

That spark at the SG is interesting.  I would be interested in seeing it on video if you have the time to video it.  The original video from Kapanadze, in the backyard with the buried car copper radiator, showed that tiny spark gap and the tiny sparks powering those 5- 100w light bulbs on the broom stick.

Regards, Mike
I created this short video before I saw your comment http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDW5nZyXBWo   About that spark gap, it is strange. SOMETHING is forming on the outer electrode (both sides). The first time I broke it off and then it quickly reformed (with the circuit in operation). It actually looks like it may be partially bridging the gap. Another odd thing I just noticed is a few minutes ago when I started the circuit I must have turned up the voltage to fast and I saw a flash in one of the 40w lamps. I guess this is the flashover Romerouk had mentioned. Well, the circuit continued to operate with a portion of the filament missing and a very bright green plasma closed the gap. I kept it going about five minutes and when I shut it off it would not reignite the gap, so now I need more lamps.

callanan

Quote from: romerouk on June 11, 2010, 08:02:25 PM
You don't have an Recycle Electrical Centre there? You can get  A's, capacitors, diodes... for little money.
Try connecting 9x100w bulbs in series and connect them to the normal power socket. The bulbs light will be very dim.Maybe I  don't have full brightness but at least 60-70% I have for sure.Considering 1.15 to 1.6 amp at the input multiplied by 240v it shows some gain there anyway.
I will try to remember in my future video to connect all bulbs direct to the socket before then with the 'K' circuit and you can see a big difference.

We need to understand series versus parallel connection of the load bulbs. If they are rated at 240V and that is the utility supply voltage for your country, then connecting them all in parallel and then powering them only from the wall will yield the full brightness and power consumption of the load. So if you have 9 x 100W lamps, when connected in parallel and plugged into the wall they will use 900W of your house power and light at full brightness.

When these same 9 x 100W lamps are connected in series and powered by the wall outlet they will light very dimly and use little power. This is because you now need 9 x 240V of voltage across them to make them light at full brightness and consume their full load. So you will need 2160V across the series lamps to light them at full brightness and they will only then consume 900 watts.

Now when considering putting a A between the wall and the lamps you now have boosted your voltage to about 2000V as the output from the MOT. This will light the 9 x 100W lamps in series just fine without anything else as long as the transformer is rated at 900 watts. Most smaller and more common microwave ovens are rates at 700W. So directly powering 9x100W series lamps will almost fully power them but the MOT will start to get warm after some time.

If you now try and put 9 x 100W lamps in parallel across the output of a MOT, the resistance of the lamps will be too low and severely load down the MOT. The lamps will only light dimly because of this and the MOT will get very hot and trip any circuit breaker on the wall outlet end. This is like placing a short circuit across the output of the MOT. The MOT needs to see an impedance/resistance equal to it's own output impedance for full power transfer. It's output impedance is composed mainly of the resistance of it's secondary HV windings which are very many turns of very thin wire.

Only when we begin to understand all of these basics and more, can we start to understand the input power versus the output power relationships and start to determine if our system is capable of overunity or not.


romerouk

@callanan
Thank you for your suggestions.I understand fully everything you say and at the beginning I was thinking the same, thinking that I am actually using the power I put in the system.The only thing is that the amperage is much lower that it should be for that load and MOT is not getting hot, just little warm.The only hot part is the spark gap.I am working on a special spark gap now, no air but liquid.
As I have no instrument to measure the output I can only guess what I get.
I am already working to adjust the output to around 200v.In the mean time I have ordered a proper multimeter to get correct measurements.Looping the system will prove if we have extra energy there or not.

slapper

Quote from: romerouk on June 11, 2010, 09:03:37 PM
The only hot part is the spark gap.

So not only do we have light but heat as well.

Quote from: romerouk on June 11, 2010, 09:03:37 PM
I am working on a special spark gap now, no air but liquid.

This is good. Have you a sense as to what parameters your are looking for with this liquid?

Thank you!

nap
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