Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[romerouk]

@Romerouk: 3 straight questions:

1)  What kind of ground cable did you use? Something like in the attachment?
2)  How deep did you sink the rods into the ground?
3)  What is the capacitance of the red 3kvDC cap across the load?


This would have 3 hard (not stranded) smaller wires inside


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The ground cable is stranded wire (i think about 20 small wires) 2.5mm thick, I have used 3 cables in parallel (total 7.5mm thick)
The copper pipe is about 60cm deep.
The capacitor across the load is 0.05uf.If the load changes(more bulbs) I had to change the capacitance too.

[romerouk]

@baroutologos
I am still working on the project. Lately we had rain here and I couldn't do much work  also I am busy with some other things. Business is slow at the moment and requires more effort to keep it going. If I have something interesting I will post it here right away.It takes a lot of time to try and change configurations, high voltage at that level is very dangerous too. I am used to high voltage shocks but every one has a critical point.I don't want to find out where my critical point is, I have a family which is very important for me.
I am also working to change from 2 ground connections to only one.
I apreciate the help and support I get on this forum but I try to keep my mind disconected from all this info or most of it. I am working based on my intuition, trial and error is the best way I found so far. I have been working with electronics since I was 10 and at that age I didn't have  knowledge or books to learn, still I was able to fix radios, tv's and other devices of that time.I am 41 now. Sorry for my possible writing mistakes, english is not my first language.

All the best ,
RomeroUK

[flathunter]

@baroutologos
I am still working on the project. Lately we had A here and I couldn't do much work A also busy with some other things. Business is slow at the moment and requires more effort to keep it going. If I have something interesting I will post it here right away.It takes a lot of time to try and change configurations, high voltage at that level is very dangerous too. I am used to high voltage shocks but every one has a critical point.I don't want to find out where my critical point is, I have a family which is very important for me.
I am also working to change from 2 ground connections to only one.
I apreciate the help and support I get on this forum but I try to keep my mind disconected from all this info or most of it. I am working based on my intuition, trial and error is the best way I found so far. I have been working with electronics since I was 10 and at that age I didn't have  knowledge or books to learn, still I was able to fix radios, tv's and other devices of that time.I am 41 now. Sorry for my possible writing mistakes, english is not my first language.

All the best ,
RomeroUK

Im an english teacher (also living abroad), and your level is undoubtedly advanced - well done.

In addition to this I agree and sympathise with every word you wrote.  Practice makes perfect - leave the theory to the armchair philosophers of imaginary wisdom 

Now everybody - Back to work!

[aether22]

Within reason the wire isn't so important. 3 core flex mains wire can be used or even thick RG213 coax for the earth wire or central core.  (kapandze used coax on his earth and everyone thinks its "special" to use coax...NO its a cheap way of finding thick cable. Even makes a decent pair of car jump cables)

Or use European earth wire as Kapagen. Or bundle several thru centre to handle the current.

Basically anything close to kapagen will work unless you get silly and try to make it using 28awg magnet wire:) The thicker the wire the lower the resistance the MORE amps it will handle.

Earth rods im sure he used 1/2 inch copper heating pipe and just banged it in the ground maybe a couple of feet.  If you are really drawing heavy power then lights will get a tad brighter every foot driven deeper. Its not that critical.

Cap across the load don't matter its an HF smoothing cap anything you have will help filter out light flickering bigger the better.

Good investment to buy GDT's if it save you money in blown bulbs! Use 250 Volt Europe or 130 volt US.

Bolt, you really do assume far too much.
The this stuff isn't as simple as you think, if you can successfully replicate Smith then please do so, but you have not done so.

Overunity is not seen or is apparently not seen in the vast majority of circuits and even many replication attempts fail despite copying a successful design.

You see strictly speaking we are going after something that isn't possible electrically, it requires changing the (normal) rules and that is done by employing something that has different dynamics than electromagnetism of which we have a pretty good grasp.

And so even if you are right that electrically it does not matter what kind of wire is used all that much in this case, it might still matter on an aetheric level and indeed different types of wire effect the aether differently.

Now I'm not expecting to talk you into believing in the aether, but the point is that unless you are all knowing or have experimental results showing this or that isn't important you are just making an assumption and might be wrong, and as they say to assume you make an ASS out of U and ME.

FE is a mysterious thing and what seemingly should work often doesn't, that is because we don't see the whole picture.   What do you think the overall FE replication success rate is? 1% would be a very generous figure, it might be 1 in 1,000 or worse.

[aether22]

@aether22,

The HV oscillator came from a USB plasma ball:
http://www.thinkgeek.com/geektoys/science/964e/

I moved two green capacitors from the top of the pcb
to the bottom to make room for a heat sink on the TO-225AA
size transistor. I then added a heat sink.

The plastic tubing is 50mm outer diameter. It has 77 turn with
PVC insulated multistrand wire. The wire is approx. 2mm outer diameter.
Then I insulated the coil with 7 layer of yellow transformer tape. Each
layer can take approx. 1000 Volt. My two turn coil is 2mm enameled
copper wire. The two turn coil is approx. 15mm outside the first coil.
I did use some cardboard and tape to get the coil insulated from the first coil.
My spark gap is two 3mm bolts mounted onto two aluminum L shapes.
I can adjust the distance between the two bolts. The L shapes are mounted
onto two nylon distances 50mm long above the aluminum bottom plate.

Groundloop.

I'll try and replicate, I've got a 12v powered plasma globe so I'll try it first, if that fails I'll get one of those sent.

If you can do so safely (without frying scopes for freq counters), I'd like to know what freq your plasma globe power supply outputs.

Good work!