Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[wings]

You should also have a look at these videos regarding sparkgap quenching:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwVvHgbJdzA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtLlAljKQ4g

Very well done videos with great narration and explanations.

I hope he can join into figuring out the Kapanadze circuits.

Regards, Stefan.

with two magnets and a sparkplug:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reuxKGuLNYA&NR=1

or circular magnet

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLyI5HAIUu8&feature=related

[e2matrix]

Hi all a lot of testing today

1- same set up as yesterday with spak plug and no cap no diode. This morning it draws more than yesterday (it rained all the night) perhaps the wettness of the floor can influence but it draws 4.6 A. (4,2 yesterday)

2- same set up but i put a third ground line, from the basement of the MOT to different mean of "plating" at about 8 meters distance. exactly in the middle of the 2 main ground . the current draw did not change.

3- i measure the current draw of the comparison bulb which is directly connected to the house grid , it draws  0.41 A that is 0.41 x 220 volt =90.2 watts lets say 90 watts. That is to say that my bank of 10 same bulbs at full brightness needs 900 watts.

4- I installed the cap and diode but keep the spark plug . and the current draw goe down to 3.55 A the brightness is good but flickening, and the RF in the radion is very small. The electrode in the SG did not heat too much.

5. i installed the tunable SG and try all sort of electrode. and tried different opening, the current draw is very different dipending of material. Sometimes the brightness of the bank is much higher than the test bulb.
for instance with the copper electrode the spark is green the current is strong and the light is very high i have feared to fry the bank.
i made a comparison brigtness between the test bulb and the bank of bulb and as you can see they are very similar

6 i tried also  to put a thin soft steel plate under the wooden bord under the mot and connect it to the third ground line but no A decrease.

After sometime testing the MOT temp was 60 degree celsius for the primary and 70 degree for the secondary, When the MOT is hot the A draw is also bigger

OK for today  the best A draw is 3.55 with MOT cold  and the bank brightness identical to the the test bulb  , But no chance yet with the outer third grounding.

And the cap and diode greatly improve everything but be carefull with your finger !!

Any idea or suggestiion for the "plating" ?

regards

Laurent

Nice work again woopy.  I couldn't quite tell from your pic.  Did you wire the diode across the MOT output after the cap or in series with the output as originally was being done.  JLN's latest schematic and as shown by ossie has that diode across the MOT output.  I found verification that this does indeed make a sort of voltage doubler circuit.  It seems this may lower current draw also.  So output from this could be in the neighborhood of 4000 volts up to around 5500 volts depending on your MOT. 
     
   With that in mind it seems limiting input to the MOT's current may be a good idea as bolt and others have mentioned here by using either a cap or even another MOT primary in series. 
    I just picked up another MO today at a garage sale for $5 all working and in good shape.  Already had several scrapped out but I figured I needed at least one more MO Cap and diode.  So many good parts in those MO's not to mention you really have the essence of a Faraday cage when your are done pulling everything out of the shell. 

[flathunter]

OK, before you all make fun of me, remember this is just a 12V battery on my shoddy Kapagen 

I'm pleased im not the only one who finds this intriguing - seems to me that we all get results from either woppy A or woppy B, though perhaps JL Naudin gets a better result because of his wind?  Have to check and see i spose...

Tried measuring my ampage of the 12 V battery, and surprisingly my digi ametre worked for about 20 seconds, and was reading 0.5 amps.  Very unreliable nonetheless as afterwards it remained useless.  Any ideas??  I dont have an analogue metre.
I hope I am just using 6 watts to get those bulbs alight 

[flathunter]

Kapagen for the poor man:

[hartiberlin]

Also many thanks to Ossi and Jean Louis for providing
the new circuit diagram from Jean Louis and the additional tips
and also many thanks for the other users, who have joined in testing the
Kapanadze circuits.

Well I wanted to post a To-Do list,
what has not yet been tested so far:


1. Does it also work with just 2 coil, one High voltage coil about 60 to 100 turns
and the other low voltage output coil with 6 turns. ( so the third coil could be spared..)

2. What does this rod (or multiple wires all put together)
in the center of the coil have for an effect on the circuit
and does this "bifilar magnetic field canceling" back and forth grounding make any sense
and does it help to produce more output ?

3. could it run also with the same input and output power relationship
just with 1 ground line only ?

4. What does a fullwave graetz bridge rectifier at the High Voltage
side of the MOT have for an effect on the input and output power ?
Will it work more efficiently ?

5. Is it impedance wise better to put all the bulbs at the output in series
as it was done by JL Naudin and the replicators or wouldn´t it be
better to place all the bulbs in parallel, as the 6 turn output coil
should have a pretty low impedance ?

6. What will a sparkquenching at the sparkgap with a Neodym magnet get us
in efficiency raising when the circuit is powered by High Voltage DC ?

7. Will it have any benefit to use an additional output coil through the center of the tube ?
(A real coil, not a magnetic field canceling bifilar coil !)

8. Is it true, that a copper-graphite spark gap works best in efficiency
or is there any other dissimular metals pair, that will work better ?

Okay, maybe a few experimenter can try to find this all out ?

Many thanks in advance.

Regards, Stefan.