Earth Electrical Energy Datalogging Experiments

[tishatang]

Here is an updated circuit showing the blocking diodes.  These keeps the parallel res circuit from bleeding to ground.  Earth currents can get in, but not out.  Energy is transferred from its iron coil into the copper coil.  As the energy is transferred, fresh energy comes in from the earth to replenish the oscillator.  Its freq is tuned by the variable air cap.  Use germanium diodes here if you have them.  They only drop about .2 volts.  We may not have enough volts to push through a silicon diode?  If only a little gets through, that's OK as long as we get sustained oscillation.  Measure with a high impedance meter or scope across the ground rods.  Be patient and vary the freq slowly.  Leave it on a setting for a while.  Earth currents take longer to build.  Slowly go from close to open on the air cap.  This will start you at the lowest freq and work your way up.  By stretching or compressing you inductor, you can change your freq band.  You can also substitute what ever coil you have on hand and sweep again.  Even try coil of a transformer.  Iron will give you more inductance.  That fact the NS EB has an iron core, means he is probably below 20Khz.  Here we are just proving the theory of a sustained res tuned circuit powered by the earth.  The lower freqs carry more energy.  Remember, the chapter talks about large capacitor plates shown in some of the photos.  More evidence, he is probably using these stacks to work in resonance with the EB.  The larger the components, the lower the freq.

If someone gets oscillation and voltage gain, that will be great news.  If not, it will not be a failure.  We will try and solve the problem.  Also, later on, we can try and prime the pump to get it going.

[electricme]

@ Jeanna

Hi Jim,
Have fun with your bicycle... don't pedal too fast!

jeanna

The bike will save the day, without pedals  ha ha


@ Tishatang
Like always, your drawings are excellent, the electrodes, pardon my ignorance, what would you recomend I try, and the adjustable caps, how many piko farads might they be please.

The below drawing is just a little of the motor I have been thinking of for years.

jim

[electricme]

@Jeanna,

My question below relates to sewing machines and overlockers, none of the fellas here would be able to answer it unless they were a sewing machine mechanic, so you are the best person to ask it.

In my top drawing on the last page, I have 5 overlocking cotton reels, somewhere in the back of my mind I can remember a tensioner screw arrangement is used on sewing machines, but I need to know the reason why.
I get a uneaseing feeling if I don't use 5 of them, (one for each thread), somehow I might get into trouble with it.

What do you think, am I right.

jim

[electricme]

@ All,
I just made a great find for those who carnt find a tuning capacitor, You might decide to make your very own tuning capacitor.

This fellow here http://www.eham.net/articles/5217 has made his own tuning capacitor.
He takes you through each very detailed stage, step by step, with photos, it's a through job and well worth taking a quick look at.

AND here is another excellent one http://www.813am.qsl.br/artigos/teoria/HomemadeCapacitor.pdf this one can handle up to 2000 volts and there are maths to work out the plates etc.

These are worth a looksee.

jim

[jeanna]

@Jeanna,

My question below relates to sewing machines and overlockers,
...

In my top drawing on the last page, I have 5 overlocking cotton reels, somewhere in the back of my mind I can remember a tensioner screw arrangement is used on sewing machines, but I need to know the reason why.
I get a uneaseing feeling if I don't use 5 of them, (one for each thread), somehow I might get into trouble with it.

What do you think, am I right.

jim

In a regular sewing machine, the reason for the screw is to make the knot that is formed stay in the middle of the cloth.
This is mostly on the machines that use a bobbin of thread for the bottom knot.
When there is only 1 thread, the process produces a chain stitch.

The stitch I was envisioning when I looked at your pix, was more like a knitted stitch which is like the chain but 4 to 5  stitches wide and forms a tube.
This is the stitch that is made by those spool knitters, (or sock knitters) and a lot like your drawing.

The wire would feed down the center of the spool and 4 or 5 nails would be evenly spaced around the edge.
To start it you would make a slip knot over 1 nail,  then wrap the thread around all the nails 2 times.
Then you would take a hook and move the lower thread over the upper one and on over the top of the nail and leave it.
Then you would continue around and around bringing the bottom thread up over the top thread and over the nail.

As you progress, you continue to wind the end of the thread to the top side so there is always a thread to go over.
In this design, you would be keeping the wire going down the center too.

I personally think wrapping it in a long thin piece of silk or thin cotton cloth is easier even if you end up sewing it in place.

There have been knitting machines to do this for about 150 years. Socks are made on these type of knitting machines.
But these machines are finiky.

This is the reason I was not surprised when mw383 said the cotton covered wire was 50 cents per foot. I say, 'And, no doubt well worth it.'

That is a big answer. I hope I answered your question in all that.

This is a good enough explanation from youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIk4ZwMnuH8&feature=related

As you watch how she pulls the thread through the bottom remember it would be the thread and the wire together.

jeanna