Self Charging Bedini-Cole Window Motor

[supermuble]

I was playing around with my motor. It only draws about 1-5 miliamps. The problem is, my window motor is NOT over-unity. However, I installed a small 1600v bipolar capacitor on the main winding. The circuit went into automatic resonance. The strangest thing ever is that it made the battery voltage jump up. When disconnected, the voltage went back down. It appears that I've created a simple self powering circuit. This is a brand new battery, and with a different radiant charger, you cannot even see the voltage spikes in the battery because the battery impedance is low, it is in good condition.

This may or may not be helpful, but I wanted to share this because I really haven't seen any phenomena like this before. I've heard that it is possible to charge a primary battery while taking a load from it, but I can't believe how dramatic the effect was. This effect happens the moment you hook up the battery, before you even spin the rotor, it starts resonating. It appears this can all be done SOLID STATE. Watch the video to see what I mean. Here is the link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssx6VljXnDE

Here are scope shots and pictures. The cap is very small 1600v. I have 640 turns, 40-60 ohms, 23/23/27 gauge wire.

I hooked up the two 23 gauge wires in SERIES configuration, so a total of 100 ohms = 1280 turns on the main winding this way.

The MPS8099/MPS8099 and MPS8599 transistors were delivering the power back to the main battery, even though they aren't supposed to do that with this circuit. Since I was just experimenting, I forgot to install the bridge rectifier and the transistors burned out after about 8 minutes. I don't know why they burned out. The transistors might have been overloaded from other experiments? For those of you who want to replicate this experiment, we can try to use the bridge rectifier as shown in the Bedini-Cole half circuit diagram. I'll build a new circuit and post results.

Use an adjustable base resistor (I used 2.2K) instead of the 10 ohm base resistor.

Here is the circuit:

http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Window-Motor%20JB-RC.jpg

I was so impatient that I built a new circuit using 2N3055's NPN and a TIP42 (PNP). I get the same sharp spikes, but none of the spikes return to the primary battery. I tried a bridge rectifier and everything else, but I can only produce negative voltage spikes in the battery. When I try to hook up positive power spikes back to the battery, the battery doesn't register a thing.... Those tiny MPS8099/MPS8599 appear to have a unique ability to allow reverse voltage. Maybe someone smarter than myself can explain how my first circuit worked??

[supermuble]

It has been several years since this experiment. YouTube promptly deleted the video, and the original video file does not exist on my computer, nor does it exist on any of my memory cards. I hate to be a conspiracy theorist, but I did not delete this video, YouTube clearly took it down. It was the most obvious free energy video I've ever recorded and I would have stood behind it, had I still owned the video.


The above experiment was very significant. I was producing genuine free energy. When I hooked up the circuit, my battery voltage jumped up by 1 or 1.5 volts, from 12.45 volts to 13 or 14 volts, and maintained it. When I hooked up this circuit and saw the voltage on the battery leap higher than it ever has from any charger, I was in shock.

There are many fake videos and people who claim free energy, but after all these years, I'd like to say that I did produce free energy, and I did it with a handful of very inexpensive parts you can purchase from Radio Shack. The circuit would have produced power forever, as long as I hadn't burned out the transistors, but the transistors burned out. I don't know how to replicate the effect and all further attempts to replicate this experiment have failed.

To recap, I did produce free energy. I got to witness a battery that was not only self charging, but a battery that was dramatically overcharging, even though the battery was in very good condition with very, very low impedance. The drive coil was very high ohm, which doesn't usually equate to good charging. The motor also still functioned as a motor, but while running there was a resonant frequency of 212.7 hz, which was the frequency between the capacitor and  the drive coil.

I am posting a follow up to this because this experiment has been completely ignored and I'd like someone to notice this and try to replicate it. If it is really that easy to get free energy, then anyone can build this. But this is not normal radiant charging, this was genuine OVER UNITY - plain and simple. There was a tremendous excess of energy, at least 1000% over-unity or 10:1 COP, since I was only using 5 to 20 milliamps to drive the motor, and the battery was acting as though I was feeding it 1000 milliamps or more.

If anyone would like to replicate this, I figured out the concept.


1.) You have the drive coil, with a capacitor in parallel to it.
2.) The drive coil is driven at the resonant frequency of the coil and the capacitor.
3.) The power input the coil is clipped DC, not AC. The clipped DC input power causes extra energy to enter into the resonant circuit.
4.) Power is returned because it finds a path back to the battery, even if a path isn't intended, the power can force it's way past the transistors, eventually ruining them by over voltage.
5.) Using properly designed diodes, or a spark gap, or some other means of returning to the energy to the battery might be possible...
6.) Other methods might be devised using resonance.


The pictures above are taken from a running motor. I have the same battery, I still own the battery. I have charged the battery all day with a 18 AWG radiant charger and it will not go above 13 volts, even while the charger is hooked up. The window motor drove the battery above 13 volts using 23 awg wire. I used the same voltage meter shown above for 2 years after making these pictures and it never once had a glitch or a problem.


Instead of ignoring this, this needs to be replicated.


How to do it: Drive a coil with a 1600 volt metal film capacitor in parallel, using very sharp magnetic fields created by smashing 6 magnets together in the center rotor - this amplifies the magnetic fields of the rotor dramatically. The plastic disc on the end of the metal shaft, could have possibly had an effect, we shouldn't rule anything out. As far as I know, nobody has ever seen this effect so everything should be taken into consideration.

I also had a PVC plastic pipe which comprised the rotor to hold the 6 bar magnets on using hot glue. BTW (When you spin a 6 pole rotor, the magnetic field stretches about 8" away from the rotor, which is insane considering ceramic magnets from radio shack are not normally that strong!)

Feed the coil and the capacitor which are in parallel, feed it with clipped DC at a frequency between 20 and 5000hz, and wait for a resonant voltage spike to occur, if it occurs.

This was a REAL GENUINE OVER-UNITY motor... it was SOLID state, because even when you stopped the motor by hand it would still continue to produce free energy.... I STILL OWN THIS BATTERY AND IT HAS NEVER NEVER went above 13 volts while running a motor or device.... I still own this motor and have never been able to replicate this experiment. I will continue to try and will report back if I ever do figure it out.

[conradelektro]

@supermuble:

First, I am not talking down your window motor and I am not an expert, but I want to tell you what I would do with your window motor (based on what I have seen in  the OU forums in the last years):

If you still have your window motor in working order, please run it with an electrolytic capacitor instead of the battery (e.g. 1000 µF, 100 V electrolytic capacitor).

You start out with the electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the battery and then after a while, once everything has settled into a stable running of your window motor (including the OU effect), you disconnect the battery and let the motor continue only on the electrolytic capacitor.

Since you are claiming a COP > 10 the little losses in the electrolytic capacitor (which are in the µA range) should not prohibit your window motor to run for days on the electrolytic capacitor.

All so called "OU effects" seen on a battery went away once an electrolytic capacitor was used instead of the battery.

Batteries are tricky components which show many strange chemical effects when used in the mA range. Also the energy stored in a battery (such as the one you used) is huge in comparison to the power drawn by your window motor. So, you would have to observe the battery Voltage for weeks in order to proof OU. Therefore, use an electrolytic capacitor which has little energy stored and shows power consumption (even in case it is very little) pretty soon (because the Voltage will drop pretty soon).

Very well built pulse motors, window motors and Ossi motors run for hours on an electrolytic capacitor with modest capacity (e.g. 1000µF to 68.000 µF), but eventually they stop (which means no OU).

Greetings, Conrad

[ingyenenergiagep]

Hello Supermuble,

try this circuit feed from capacitors. If you get higher voltage on supply capacitor-> overunity.

Hello Conrad,

"Very well built pulse motors, window motors and Ossi motors run for hours on an electrolytic capacitor with modest capacity (e.g. 1000µF to 68.000 µF), but eventually they stop (which means no OU)."

How can run a motor with very small amperage? The losses of motor(bearings) are higher, than the energy input.

[ingyenenergiagep]

We can use 555 IC (with variable mark/space ratio and frequency, find the resonance) and opto instead reed switch.