Window Motor Doubles Voltage At The Power Supply [Overunity ?]

[DadHav]

Tinu, I'm not sure about that either. As the voltage and current reading goes up, the motor also speeds up and develops more torque. When running at it's highest level the motor is much harder to stop by grabbing the shaft, even though it is drawing only 200 ma. If I put a large capacitor across the input it will charge to to 42 volts rather quickly. I'm trying to get a schematic for the supply as well as talk to someone at Lambda. I can't try some of the other mentioned tests because this only happens with the power supply. I can test some other supplies to see if it does the same thing. We all know what an important part impedance matching plays as it pertains to Bedini patents and I think this is what I'm experiencing here. My coils are 400 turn 400 ft long so the impedance would never be close to match up with a battery, at least with respect to my understanding. I'll continue figuring out whats going on or to get the setup to work with a battery but I have to admit I'm tiring  out a little bit and feel a need to build something else while giving this more thought.
John

[gyulasun]

Hi John,

Thanks for coming to this forum and adding further details on your findings.

Normally power supplies do not like loads like a pulse motor and they can be especially sensitive to inductive current loads that appear and disappear suddenly.

I understand you start tiring out a little but maybe you could do a simple test.

It needs a diode like 1N4001 or similar normal rectifier diode (no need for a fast one or for a Schottky type but of course they are also ok if  they have a decent 50-60V reverse voltage rating and you have just like that in your precious 'junkbox').

You could connect this diode in series with the positive output of your power supply, its anode would go to the + output and its cathode would go to your + wire of the motor so that when you run the motor without the feedback, it would work as usual, the only loss being the forward voltage drop across the diode (0.7V for an Si diode).

Now if you switch on the feedback, this diode will surely block any DC voltage that is higher than the supply output (less the 0.7V), and the inside control loop or whatever circuit in the power supply will not be fooled.
And the increased supply voltage (if manifest any) AFTER the diode that feeds the motor may still get added to that 20V value.

I hope it is understandable what I suggest: with the series diode you can simply separate the two voltages; the one coming out from the power supply and the one you feed back to it from the diode bridge.

rgds, Gyula

[DadHav]

Gyula, I wish I'd thought of that myself. It sounds like a simple quick test that will show us something. I have a shoe box full of diodes. Hmm as I think about that further, it might present a load on the motor that will just slow it down. Well who knows, we'll see. I'm slightly out of town at this moment enjoying a visit from my sister and brother-in-law. I will however be traveling back and forth from our cottage to home for mail. I should have time this week to try a few things. I really appreciate the ideas. You never know. Sometimes you might only be missing success by the smallest amount of help or advice.
Take Care
John

[gyulasun]

Hi John,

Yes it may present a load to your motor because whenever the voltage level tends to be higher on the + motor wire than the output of supply voltage, the series diode will block the supply voltage and the motor current will load the diode bridge's output,  a situation a snake wishes to byte its own tail... 

rgds, Gyula

[DadHav]

I'll keep my snake byte solution very close at hand. (The current limiting knob on the supply)
Cheers
John