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Overunity Machines Forum



DIY Tesla Switch Guide

Started by geotron, March 05, 2010, 01:23:11 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Groundloop

@geotron,

I have tried to use the same component types as Mr. Bedini did use in his circuit. That is the
reason for using the MR852 diodes. The circuit drawing from Mr. Bedini did not say what type
of diodes that was used in the output rectify part of the circuit so my thinking was like this;
If the MR852 is fast enough for the circuit then the same diodes must be fast enough for
the rectify part also.

The mF is often used to label a capacitor as micro Farad, I use the uF label and it is the same.

If you want one of my printed circuit boards then you can have one for free. I will get the
boards in two weeks time. (Gyulasun if you want a free pcb also, let me know.)

The circuit drawing I posted is made by Mr. Bedini and Mr. Brandt. It was published in a pdf
document. My circuit drawing is a direct copy of that document. My goal is to try to replicate
the Bedini circuit as close to the original as possible. I have built and tested other variants of
the Tesla switch and they all have one thing in common, they did not work. So this time I will
stick to the Bedini circuit because I think that this is the right thing to do.

Groundloop.

geotron

What a day! Transistors, transformers, diodes and
capacitors...  Here is my current progress. I'm going
to see how much of it I can source locally -

In case anyone has an assembled version of this
circuit, a catalog framed photograph would hit the
spot, but if not I guess I'll find out soon enough.

~ Thanks for the awesome help so far everyone ~

geotron

I'm currently in the process of figuring out how to
connect the SG3594 in a proper fashion to the timer
input lead... a bit confusing - my best guess so far
is pin #7.

pese

Jou can Proper configure the IC  as in PAGE 10 of linked PDF (this book)

BUT YOU WILL FORGET ALL NOW+
Read the following:
G.P.
-------------------------------

pleas forget all this nonsense
If follow all this "s named" kromrey bedini circuit.s
And IF I SEE ONLY this circuit here in Overunity.com
-i am surprized, that the folks will follow this.
This can not work. If cou see the "electrical Parametere
and use of components. i can not work.

I am no looking the SOURCE of "ONE of this "NONSENS",
and you can -also-  downoard this BOOK FREE here.

Mueller.pdf !  -  that say all (?)
http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf

If you see to page 4.
ERRORS made in the showned Polarity of Diodes+

Page12
Is is not possibel that Collector to battery flow 4 Amp
and from Emitter to (another Battery 5 Amp !!
(It can only flow same curret - at same time this way!)

On Page 10 you see the same Circuit (fully connected
with driver IC)  with 2N3055H  (Hometaxial Typ of 2N3055 made
by RCA (and Siemens) - made 20 years ago-

Page 15  same Circuit with MJ802 (for more Amp).-
Ypu can also use 2 or 3 2N3055 in parallel.
BUT This basic Circuit can NEVER WORK.


If you think only that the bases of this
transistors MUST BE driven with about 5 to 10 Amp
POWER (with about 3Volt peaks), you will ask you
-Can the IC this do ?  I will not open all this papers.
If you see that driver transoformers are used
8 Ohm to 1000 Ohm. (From transistor radio ?) you must
"scratich you head because you need mor than 100 time
more current to driving the base of all transitors !!
(you have seen th "flyback diodes 1n914 ? =
that are fpr about 200ma workable!)

- So you must "turn" the transformer ???
The the current , is OK  BUT you need 100 time mor
voltage to the input of the transformers (time 6!)

that say 100 x6 for 3 Volt  this is more than 1000volts

FORGET to do this.


IF YOU WILL TRY, the SYSTEM of this Circuit. MAKE FIRST
the SIMPLY USE with RELAIS.
Use 3 pcs 30 to 100Amp Relais (Switch)  (or all in one)
an connect THIS like in Page 14 (Draw.2)

So you have an fine circuit WITHOUT all the LOSSES.
in Transitors an Diodes. that are OVER 3 Volts in this
Semiconductor Circuits, that are ONLY USED, to
"save/replace" the Relais !!
You can now SWITCH "by hand" this circuit with 3 to 5 time
WITH normal breaker (unprofessionally" by hand.

AND NOW follow with voltage-test instruments . IF YOU CAN FIND ANY
FREE POWER that come INTO the batteries !!!

Only IF you find them ... than you can think about an
"Automatic" that can "replace your hand"..


"THINK SIMPLY" , and test "Simply" before you will construct
sucht "nonsens" that is written to do "instructable work",
that you will not mor work longer with "free - overunity - ideas"

And all this "not to understand writings" that follow from page
17 to 33 , you must not try to understand. THAT say nothing over
all this errors that is made also in ALL pages before.

Sorry my english, dont know the fully volume of usable words,
but i think you will find my meaning.

Gustav Pesé
http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf


---------------------------------

Some links in german and englisch
tha i have collected since 2002 you
find here
www.alt-nrg.de/pppp/
GP
Skype Member: pesetr (daily 21:00-22:00 MEZ (Berlin) Like to discussing. German English Flam's French. Special knowledges in "electronic area need?
ask by messey, will help- so i can...

gyulasun

@Groundloop

Thank you very much for offering the PCB but I do not need it.

@geotron

Quote from: geotron on March 06, 2010, 09:50:34 PM
Concerning the 1N914 rectifier diodes, GroundLoop - I see
the one you have listed is a 200V 3A 300ns, while the specs for
the 1N914 are 100V 4A 4ns.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N914virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-1N914 


Though Groundloop answered your diode question, I refer only to a mistype: the 1N914 diode does not have 4A, only 0.2A continuos forward current. The 4A is the max surge current, and for the MR852 the 3A is the continuos forward current and it has 100A max surge current, ok?


Quote
Additionally I will need a board for all of these things to
reside on, and was considering the selection over at AllElectronics.com
again. They've got a small range of different sizes to choose from,
most being about 6 x 4in -
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/455/Perf-Boards/1.html

Would one of these provide enough space by itself for the
Tesla Switch circuitry and Timer, or should I get a smaller
board as well for the latter? 

I think Groundloop also offered to you a free PCB?  It is true it covers the schematic in Page 10 here http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf but Groundloop also precisely has given the schematic on his own url if you have seen it?    This answers your Pin 7 question of the SG3524 how to connect it to the timer: no need for figuring it out because it is included in the schematic by Groundloop or by Page 10 link.  (Otherwise Pin 7 would be a wrong choice because it needs the timing capacitor to adjust the frequency.  See Page 2 in this data sheet for the SG3524:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/texasinstruments/sg3524.pdf  and one possible output from the SG3524 to the Tesla switch input would be Pin 14, your top left hookup point. But this would involve a 6th hookup point on the timer: it is Pin 8 of the SG3524, the negative ground, is to be connected to the ground point of the Tesla switch circuit. (Any output pulse from the timer circuit comes out with respect to Pin 8 of the IC.)

rgds,  Gyula