GENERATOR- YOU DO THE IN/OUT POWER MATH

[DeepCut]

Thanks Airstriker, good advice.

Unfortunately (or fortunately) this single-magnet rotor does 12,000 RPM so i can't use ceramic bearings

@Mark and Bruce i got a couple of 10k resistors today, couldnt get a 4.7k, they had them but seems like someone isn't filing resistors away properly ;+}

Am making new assembly now then will report back on load test.


Gary.

[magnetman12003]

Hi Guys,
I am going to put all of the links in this thread as I have them scattered all over the place.  I am waiting on my hyperfast diodes and a 450 volt cap to make my DC rectifier.

This whole idea might have some overunity merit but I dont  have a scope or expensive equipment to see if it pans out.  Hi frequency AC "CURRENT" is difficult to measure as you are aware.  I hope someone out there gives it a try using better equipment than I have.   If they do I hope they post their results.  Note the 12 Volt automobile L4 Relay in the Bedini/Davro circuit. That relay keeps the circuit current in the milliamp range. I deliberately use 6 DC volts/ milliamps LOW POWER to spin the magnet. The spinning magnet then delivers its own (hopefully HIGHER) AC power which is harvested by the coil around it. Now if the spinning magnet does deliver more power then what it takes to spin it we have overunity.

Remember it takes a blasting cap to trigger a stick of dynamite.  No laws of physics are broken.

I like your idea about double windings Bruce but unless the coils can be seperated the magnet inside one coil could not be accessed or adjusted with the coils wound over each other.
  My pickup coil is 4 inches in diameter, 2 5/8 inch center hole, 2 3/8 inches tall.  3,200 feet of #30 AWG magnet wire wrapped around it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3Cpv4Lxdyw&feature=player_embedded



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj388d43Ufo&feature=channel

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RX84X8DIA

Tom

[mscoffman]

Thanks Airstriker, good advice.

Unfortunately (or fortunately) this single-magnet rotor does 12,000 RPM so i can't use ceramic bearings

@Mark and Bruce i got a couple of 10k resistors today, couldnt get a 4.7k, they had them but seems like someone isn't filing resistors away properly ;+}

Am making new assembly now then will report back on load test.


Gary.

@DeepCut;

OK...you can create 5K by putting two 10K resistors in parallel. I wanted 5K
anyway but they make 4.7K and 5.1K. (yes there is a reason)

Use ceramic bearings...RPM's will only be a problem at between 20K and 30K RPM
Don't forget they rate the bearings for things like mechanical shock loading
which are probably not occurring in this application. They are not like a capacitors
WVDC ratings...they have some margins you can operate beyond. Cermanic bearings
are better for high RPM's because the rollers have less mass for centrifugal force
to operate against.

Often any factory supplied lubrication needs to be cleaned out of the bearing
and you should apply some Teflon based fluid lubricant mixed with some
3-in-1 oil. Very small viscosity lubricant. Often they apply grease at the factory
which is much too viscous for this application. Don't use too much oil or you can
imagine what happens. This oil also helps the bearing damp out vibrations too.

---

Your diagram is very nice looking, but the connections are not correct! You
want to connect only one side of the potentiometer to the minus like you
have it but the positive wire should be disconnected and put where the meter
red positive lead is. That is, the pot's variable wiper center connection. Leave
one far connections to the pot unconnected. They way you show it the pot is
a voltage divider with only the meter as the only load. Don't forget that in
one direction a pot's R becomes =0ohms!

Once you get the connections correct. You know if you want to measure the
"current" you have to break the circuit and insert the meter probes. So you would
remove the positive wire connection to the potentiometer and attach the meter
black lead to the pot. The positive wire would go to the red meter probe and the
meter dial setting goes to dc A(amps) or ma.

Note that Ohms law really does work so you should be able to measure resistance
with your DVM resistance scale (highly accurate), voltage with your DVM voltmeter
scale (highly accurate), and current with the current scale. Then apply them to
Ohms law E=I*R and see how accurate they are versus the calculations in total.
Make sure you use the correct zeroes and decimal point.

---

22Gauge and 24Gauge solid plastic insulated wire is "household utility wiring" wire.
26Gauge and 28Gauge solid plastic insulated wire is circuit "hookup" wire.
30Gauge AWG solid plastic is "wire wrap" wire.
The same Guages are available as "Bare" wire for running ground lines
and coating insulated wire for coil winding.

Take your time, Don't feel we are putting pressure on you to finish any experiment.

:S:MarkSCoffman

[DeepCut]

Thanks a lot Mark.

That's the kind of specific info i needed, me being electronically illiterate and all ;+}

I will try ceramic bearings in the future.

The diagram is from allaboutcircuits.com 

And no worries about pressure - i'm obsessed, all the pressure is coming from me i'm just frustrated at my lack of knowledge. I've worked in IT for 20 years and computers are easy compared to all this.

But i'm loving it. I hope we don't discover free energy because then i'd have nothing to do in my spare time ;+}


Gary.

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi Guys,
I am going to put all of the links in this thread as I have them scattered all over the place.  I am waiting on my hyperfast diodes and a 450 volt cap to make my DC rectifier.

This whole idea might have some overunity merit but I dont  have a scope or expensive equipment to see if it pans out.  Hi frequency AC "CURRENT" is difficult to measure as you are aware.  I hope someone out there gives it a try using better equipment than I have.   If they do I hope they post their results.  Note the 12 Volt automobile L4 Relay in the Bedini/Davro circuit. That relay keeps the circuit current in the milliamp range. I deliberately use 6 DC volts/ milliamps LOW POWER to spin the magnet. The spinning magnet then delivers its own (hopefully HIGHER) AC power which is harvested by the coil around it. Now if the spinning magnet does deliver more power then what it takes to spin it we have overunity.

Remember it takes a blasting cap to trigger a stick of dynamite.  No laws of physics are broken.

I like your idea about double windings Bruce but unless the coils can be seperated the magnet inside one coil could not be accessed or adjusted with the coils wound over each other.
  My pickup coil is 4 inches in diameter, 2 5/8 inch center hole, 2 3/8 inches tall.  3,200 feet of #30 AWG magnet wire wrapped around it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3Cpv4Lxdyw&feature=player_embedded



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj388d43Ufo&feature=channel

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RX84X8DIA

Tom

Hi Tom,

You can easily add the second coil to where the coils can be seperated!  Here is an idea... Take and measure the length diameter you need, to "slip" at 90 degrees over your existing pu coil..  Measure out some Card Stock to the width and length you need to make your desired bobbin.  Cut out several, identical, and glue one on top of another, to get the stiffness you desire for coil form.  Next, simply spray with some good spray adhesive, and then wind your magnet wire (or stranded wire as I prefer in this case) around the form.  At the end of the first row, use wax to start next row, spray again an wind second layer.  Continue this for as many layers as you want.  Slip coil on at 90 degrees and you are good to go!  If it only puts out 1/2 as much power as your other coil, that is okay, you are still up in power output by 50% !!!   

Cheers,

Bruce