This device is the real self-running overunity?

[Sprocket]

Unfortunately as has been pointed out, the inventor has been very very sparing regarding specifics!  One point he did discuss regarded rotation of the magnets due to the Lenz effect (as he understood it) - and this I have been able to investigate a little.  Unfortunately (or fortunately perhaps!) I do not have proper videoing hardware but I will try to upload a crappy mobile-phone 3gp file showing my findings.  Having watched it, I can say in advance the quality is really dire!

Anyway, what I did.  Simply, I shorted the coil, marked one of the rotating magnets with some aluminium tape, aligned it to point in a known direction, and from a standing-start slowly increased the voltage to the small DC motor(s) (2 tiny 3.5v motors back-to-back 'cos 1 on its own is too weak) driving the rotor until the main shaft was doing at least 200rpm.  Then slowly decreased the speed again until rotation had ceased and observed the marked-rotors position.  Result: at least at these slow rpm's, the magnets do not rotate, that I'm quite sure of!  btw, at this speed I have no problems lighting LED's.   The result seems the same up to about 400rpm so I'm dubious about the whole rotating magnets scenario...

I also decided to play around with the current-build a bit before moving on.  I've tried driving the motors from 2 * 1.2V batteries and switching the pulse from the coil to alternate batteries every half-cycle via a Reed-sw->D-type Latch->6V Miniature Relay combination - in the hope they might charge.  No such luck...

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=390

[gauschor]

  @ video quality. No problem though, most things I could recognize and thanks a lot for sharing 

Interesting, I got the feeling you are much closer in your attempt to replicate the device than me, therefore I got some questions for you:

1) I am assuming that your "thandar" power supply shows on the left side the voltage drawn by the motor and on the right side the amperage. Therefore your motor draws about 3V and 260mA on about ~400 rpms if I got it right? (just for confirmation purpose)

2) How many windings did your big copper coil have (or if you don't know, then what's the approximate full length of the wire) and whats the diameter of the wire?

3) Did you use any iron/ferrite core?

4) Did you use 1 or 2 coils when powering an LED?

[NickZ]

   
     I would think that if the magnets are not spinning there is  a problem there, unless solved the rest won't work, as I see it.  That was the whole point of this. Spinning magnets or the whole thing goes thump, and stops,  motors are just to get it going, once going you don't need the motor. Right?  The magnets magnetic bearings working properly may be the main key to unlock this door. They have to spin.
                                                                             NZ

[Gwandau]

NickZ,

Exactly!

This isn't about some academically explainable effect overlooked by conventinal science.

This is something totally off the road happening here.

What we know is that there is an unexpected Electro-Motive Force created when the main rotor
reaches a certain rpm.

Look at his videos. He always waits with shortening the air coils until a certain rpm is reached.

This strange EMF related effect may be an intricate electromagnetic vortex geometry manifesting
and resulting in the spinning magnets, or it may be caused by something altogether different.

So I stress again, anyone into the quest of duplicating this discovery has to keep absolutely
rigidly to the original settings, any deviation is bound to result in no effect whatsoever.

And if we don't have the exact parameters needed to construct an exact replica, any attempt will be a waste of time.

First after a successful experiment with an exact replica will there be windows available for deviation experiments.

This is my own experience as a product developer and this is also common knowledge in any type of research.

Gwandau

[Sprocket]

@ video quality. No problem though, most things I could recognize and thanks a lot for sharing 

Interesting, I got the feeling you are much closer in your attempt to replicate the device than me, therefore I got some questions for you:

1) I am assuming that your "thandar" power supply shows on the left side the voltage drawn by the motor and on the right side the amperage. Therefore your motor draws about 3V and 260mA on about ~400 rpms if I got it right? (just for confirmation purpose)

2) How many windings did your big copper coil have (or if you don't know, then what's the approximate full length of the wire) and whats the diameter of the wire?

3) Did you use any iron/ferrite core?

4) Did you use 1 or 2 coils when powering an LED?

Correct on the PSU current, not the RPM's - it's actually half what the tachometer shows 'cos rotor-blades cross twice per revolution, so 200rpm.

No idea of the length, it's basically a full reel of 0.25mm enamelled copper wire I salvaged from an old TV.  The inductance comes to 125mH though.  I did try an iron core with v1 and saw the expected increase in inductance, so more power from the coil.  No ferrite to check with.

One coil.  Just giving the rotor a good hand-twist will cause the led to come alive, so I'm not sure why you are having problems.  I tried full-wave rectification with a FWBR & smoothing cap - works as expected but it's actually more effective to just tie the led directly to the coil (it is after all a diode!)

@NickZ - We have just got Wendell's word that the rotating magnets behave this way.  As I mentioned earlier, short of using stroboscopic lighting, there seems no way he can be so precise about their behaviour.  And my limited experimentation shows no sign of the effect.  Maybe at higher rpm's it manifests or maybe his magnetic bearings are leaps-and-bounds better than mine (which imho aren't bad!) - that's basically the problem, there are too many unknowns about this!  For instance from the very get-go we are told that magnetic bearing are essential, but we are never given a proper demonstration of how good his bearings are!  Personally, judging from the second or so where he spins one on camera, I think mine are at least equal in performance.  And let's not forget about the aluminium-block bearing he demonstrates.  After being quite enthusiastic about this initially and spending several hours testing the idea, imo this is a non-starter - you end up basically with a magnetic brake of sorts...