The Bucking Magnet Motor

[z.monkey]

I've finishing up the relief cut adjustments while I was waiting for the magnets to arrive.  Also, added a more weight reduction holes.  I got the magnets on Monday afternoon.  This morning I started the process of drilling and tapping the holes to secure the magnets.  The stator disk can be drilled, and tapped from the outside (easier).  The driver ring has to be drilled, and tapped from the inside, which will be a lot more tricky.  I got a 90 degree drill chuck attachment to do this.  Got two magnet mounting holes made so far, only 42 more to go...

[loosecannon]

Zmonkey,  following this thread with much interest.  very cool build so far!
cant wait to see more.

i am curious about something.  i noticed that you are using bolts to locate/hold the outer driver disk in place.

are you concerned about interaction between the magnets on the stator and those bolts?

i am very much a newb when it comes to magnet motors, so please excuse my question if it is not an issue.
LC

[z.monkey]

Howdy LC,

The Driver Ring Pins are steel, and yeah there is a interference possibility.  The magnets are spaced around the entire periphery, while the driver pins are a comparatively small area of the total periphery.  Its an experimental device so anything is possible.  And there have been many times already where I have had to employ spin control, er uh, kludge on the fly.  I can make the Driver Ring Pins out of non-ferrous material like Brass if I need to...

When I make the next one I will probably change the Driver Ring mounting holes to the corners of the plate, like on the DiaMag6 mounting plate (large 1/2" bolts used for feet).  This would get the Driver Ring mounting holes away from the magnets, allow us to have more material (stronger) around the Driver Ring, and simplify the fabrication process.

[z.monkey]

Back in the Metal Shop...

I am marking the Stator Disk for the magnet holes.  The magnets are going to be snug in the corner of the cant and the relief.  So, I want the holes centered in the plate, and a quarter inch away from the corner.  Set the caliper to 0.125 inches and scratch a line lengthwise down the cant, using the edge of the plate as a reference.  This is center of the plate.  Repeat for all the cants.  Then reset the caliper to 0.250 inches and scratch a line perpendicular to the center line, using the inside corner of the cant as a reference to guide the caliper.  Again, repeat for all the cants.

Now on each cross section we need to start the hole with a center punch.  I align the cant to where it is level in the jaws of the vise.  Then use the spring loaded to make a dimple at the intersection of the two markings.  make sure you have the punch right where you want it and give 3 punches.  If you put this dimple in the wrong place your hole will be in the wrong place.  If you do put the dimple in the wrong place you can use a flat faced punch, flatten the area, remark the area, and then try again.  When you are metal working you need to be able to correct mistakes, you know spin control, mo later...

[z.monkey]

Getting a rhythm now, making progress..

Drill Hole, Tap Hole, Drill Hole, Tap Hole...