Over Unity Lightbulb

[elgersmad]

Well, this makes Doing It Yourself, a major undertaking.  But, you can.

If you have your first year of College Level Electronics under your belt, then you can do this.

You will need One Phelonic toroid core, a Yellow and White Powdered Iron Core, both would be better to have the same mechanical dimensions.  1.5 KW rating.  The phelonic core won't be issue by so much as the toroid.  T400 is a good model for this circuit.  It sucks, but you'd be better off using Litz Wire or 10 AWG for the primary winding to establish the highest Q possible at 1MHz.  Operating frequency isn't so important as each stage being tuned to the same frequency, and how to tune it properly when you do have the equipment.

Then there is the light bulb.  It should be made from a spiraled quartz tube.  Neon is okay, sulfur works, and there are a few other good gases for a really good light bulb. This Quartz Coil is ideal for the Uy core at this link. Large Ferrite Core

This textbox is jumping around so much, that I will have to make a second post.

[elgersmad]

The glass coil is closed at both ends, and a very fine wire wrapped around it.  It acts like a starter, and the bulb or that filament do not complete any circuit.  It should be left as an open secondary.

Basic Parallel Resonant Tank Circuits are how this circuit produces so much energy.  Even if you use the primary winding of an unloaded transformer, it just functions as an inductor.  Until you load it or place a load on the secondary, there is no energy loss in the tank circuit operating on the primary winding using it as an simple inductor.  The bulb works because, the potential is always there on the secondary to be measured, and that means that the full population of free electrons in that wire that is the secondary windings, they move from one end of the wire to the other, and as long as there is no load, no loss.  That means that when there is a plasma/light from the bulb, the electrons move in the same fashion as with an unloaded secondary.  Now, if you punch in values of the components used in this schematic, which all should be tuned to 1MHz, in Electronics Workbench, then you will see a very high voltage and current produced.  Any other design, or any other conditions and this bulb would not produce so much light that it really would prove to be well over Unity in Operation.

This text box, is too screwed up for me to continue to use.  It jumps from the top line to the line I am writing on, and doesn't stop. Every time I type a character, I wind up looking at it for a split second, then jumping to the top of the page.  I will not contue to use this.

[elgersmad]

This circuit should be driven by a bridge H MOSFET circuit, with a very low output impedance.  The output voltage should be at least 200 volts to drive it.  Be prepared to work over your circuit several times and look into diode protection.  My experience with these circuits tell me that you should never use battery power unless it is a lead acid battery.  Anything else will overheat or explode due to over voltages and currents.  I can only tell you this, any gas should work if the voltage per cm of the length of the bulb is 200 volts.  So, if the bulb's coil length is 100 cm, you'll need to reach a peak to peak voltage of 20KV.  That doesn't mean that it cannot be a step up design.  If you have a one turn primary and it's 10 cm long, then you'll only need 2KV to drive it, and the secondary can still be 100 cm long.

For certain, you do want to be able to use any gas, atmosphere or neon, since the bulb has no electrodes, it just allows you absolute color control.  Doing the math for grow bulbs, all of the major wavelengths of light ideal for growing are actually produced by the elements that the plant is made of in a plasma state.  So, if you have a bell jar, you can burn healthy leaves in a crucible, then use a coil and a quartz tube to produce an inductively coupled plasma to break down all of the molecules into atoms.  Fill the bulb with that gas, and you have the ideal grow light.  Since the bulb has no electrodes, it is okay to have hydrogen, oxygen, carbon, nitrogen and no need to worry, it won't kill your bulb to operate on those gases.  No need for noble gases.

[elgersmad]

C4 does not belong in the schematic.  I used it to take a snap shot of the schematic, and keep the error message off of the screen.  When I run the simulations, C4 should be replaced with a 500 Meg Ohm resistor.

[elgersmad]

It looks like there's no way to find a simulator that will give you the right answers.  I've spent money on a few, and no longer are the people that test the circuits sitting next to the guys writing the software.  I suggest going back to the books and using an application such as SciLab, to model your circuit first to find the resulting current and voltage values.  Most of these you'll need to produce a inductor model like in spice that doesn't eliminate self inductance because, even thought a transformer is just two coils, it doesn't change the effects of self inductance.  Often, you wind up using V=L(di/dt).  All it takes is one fruitloop who thinks he knows it all to try to encorporate the Laws of Thermodynamics in a circuit where those laws don't apply.
http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14181/css/14181_13.htm
http://www.scilab.org/
I can't find simulator that works right now, it seems that SPICE F3 and XSpice are screwed up. The textbooks have the right answers.  It's only typical that applying 100 volts at a the resonant frequency of parallel tank crcuit would automatically jump up to 141.4 volts running.  Even the current gows up and for some dimwit to try to make sure that energy in is equal to energy out by modifying the simulators doesn't model reality at all.