How does Perendev's motor work?

[TinselKoala]

@jimhit: I don't want to start up another SMOT thread, but in case you didn't know, the device has been studied since the 16th century, at least, in many many variations, including ones that are just like the one you showed in the video. There have been several nearly-perpetual SMOT threads on this forum alone. If you want to know why they are impossible, there is a LOT of material you can read. If you want to know why people think they are possible, all you will find is theory, diagrams, and non-functional models with lots and lots of magnets.

You also say:

"I also made a straight line Perendev type device using stator magents that were magnetized with poles on the sides instead of the ends.  It worked. "

It worked? Do you mean that it spun, or looped, on its own, without additional outside help? If that is true you stand to win a LOT of money. Why don't you show a video of your WORKING Perendev-type design, because NOBODY else has been able to do that.

You also say:

"Ok so what about magnetic heaters made by Mueller, Adams, and Reed?  Reed's patent states that for roughly 70000 btu's input ie. 20.5 kilowatts he obtained 270,000 btu's heat output.  I made one and am making a second and they appear to produce 3 - 4 times more heat than possible by the necessary electrical input. "

The key word here is "appear". Do you know much about calorimetry? Do you know how to measure power in pulsed systems? How are you calculating your input and output power? Don't you realize that if you had a system that put out 4 times as much heat than the electrical input would allow, that you could capture the excess heat and turn it back into electricity, using a simple Stirling motor/generator combo, and you would have "Free Energy"? Why haven't you (or anyone else working with these heaters) done that? I'll tell you why, for nothing: it is because your energy balance calculations and/or your measurements, are in error, and there's no excess energy there to be had.

[jimhitt]

Hero,

Have you  made a magnetic heater since you are so concerned with my understanding of calorimetry?  I get a gallon of 140 degree water in 2.5 minutes using 1800 watts input with a single phase motor starting with 58 degree tap water.  A three phase motor which I will use on the next model will increase the result.  OK, I'll do the math for you as I'm not sure of your skill in this science. 

1800 watts should give 6100 btu's according to your theories. Since a btu is 1 pint increased 1 degree Fareinheit this equates to over 15000 btu's per hour.  Look, I'm not a scientist, I'm just taking the most simple ideas and testing them.  Any bozo can replicate this if they can overcome their preconceptions.  Rather than blow smoke make your own magnetic disk heater.  It's simple enough.  You can use your own calorimetry and prove me wrong.  And, yes I would expect that using a heat engine or a disk turbine that the device could be configured to run itself.  Hell, you can be the first.  It'll make you famous.

Ok, you're so sure that the Perendev motor is such a scam now you can test it.  As I said earlier I have not built a prototype.  I did build a straight line flat device.  But if you take north south end pole magnets on the bottom board at a roughly a thirty three degree angle and place a second board above them with side pole magnets at an angle equal to one magnet width, it will propel itself for as long as you extend the lower magnets. 

I used 1/2 inch by one inch long neodymium magnets.  Three magnets wide in rows roughly one inch apart. The magnet ends' verticle width at a 33 degree angle are roughly .42 inches wide when viewed straight down from above  So I spaced the magnets' holes adjacent edges .84 inches apart.  I used a pencil for wheels.  Took all of 25 minutes to make with a hand drill and a couple of pieces of weathered deck board.

'll try to create a diagram for you of what I did.

Face of board 1, magnets with north south poles on the ends signified by the pole that shows on top, north.  The holes were drilled with a thirty three degree angle to the left as the diagram is presented.   I've used nn to signify one magnet so that the side poles could be presented comparably in the second diagram.  The distance between magnet holes left to right (edge to edge - not center to center) is .84 inches (2 magnet widths):         
                    .84 inches
                           V 
nn    nn    nn    nn    nn
nn    nn    nn    nn    nn
nn    nn    nn    nn    nn

The second upper board was drilled as shown below using the same 33 degree angle to the left, and roughly 1 inch spacing between the rows, and .84 inch spacing between magnets in each row.  However this board was drilled with each row offset one magnet width farther forward than the one next to it. What you are seeing is the top view of the layout.  It does not show that the holes are drilled at a 33 degree angle to the left.  I put magnet shielding under these magnets on the end of the magnet.  To insure scientific integrity I secured it with duct tape.   With side poled magnets the end is the side and can be shielded.  The poles are on the sides not the ends.

.84 inches
     v
ns    ns   
   ns    ns                  >>>Direction of travel top board>>>
      ns    ns

The board propels itself to the right completely off the lower board's magnets with no obvious pull back at the end of the track.  But as I said, I used a pencil for a wheel and the device slid the forward end of the board on the lower board.  The magnets cost around $30 so you should be able to afford the magnets to try this on your own without incurring an excessive run up of your credit balances. 

I believe that this uses exactly the same  principles as the Howard Johnson motor with a minor variation of magnet shape.  I am accomplishing the same result with shielding.  Howard Johnson reportedly created a working model, but it was rumored to have been stolen.  I am sure you will say it was all just a scam. Perhaps this is a SMOT.  I really don't know, but it is a unidirectional magnetic push, which you claim is impossible, not that I care much for your opinion at this point.  But, to show that I bear you no animosity go ahead and replicate this and post your own video.  I'm busy, and this lesson is concluded.  Though I doubt you have appreciated it, perhaps others have.

[Light]

"I did build a straight line flat device".
- Would you please show picture or schematic, the liner movement completely different from circular.
Thank you.

[jimhitt]

"I did build a straight line flat device".
- Would you please show picture or schematic, the linear movement completely different from circular.

I understand that this diagram leaves a bit to the imagination, but it's the best I can do with the time I can spend on it.  I have enclosed the board diagrams with edges to perhaps make this easier to visualize.  The bottom board side view shows only the first magnets.  There are two more rows that would be on the other side if I could show perspective.  The first two board diagrams are the  bottom board of the device.  I am repeating the descriptions from the prior post plus have added a bit more description.

The second (lower diagrams) are the top board of the device.  The side view actually shows all the magnets as I used only three rows of two offset by one magnet width each row.

Face of board 1, magnets with north south poles on the ends signified by the pole that shows on top, north.  The holes were drilled with a thirty three degree angle to the left as the diagram is presented.   I've used nn to signify one magnet so that the side poles could be presented comparably in the lower diagrams.  The distance between magnet holes left to right (edge to edge - not center to center) is .84 inches (2 magnet widths):         
     
Top Face of Bottom Board - 1.5 feet long-not scaled                 Side view of bottom board - not to scale (15 holes 33 degree angle to left)   
____________________________________                               ___________________________________________
I   nn    nn    nn    nn    nn                          I     8 " Wide            I         nn    nn    nn    nn    nn                                  I 1 " thick
I   nn    nn    nn    nn    nn                          I                              I      nn    nn    nn    nn    nn                                   I
I   nn    nn    nn    nn    nn                          I                              I    ss    ss    ss    ss    ss                                      I  represents 1 magnet     
I____________________________________I                              I ss    ss    ss    ss    ss                                        I
                                                                                              I___________________________________________I
Shows magnet end only^^                                                       Shows sides of magnets^^^

The second "upper" board was drilled as shown below using the same 33 degree angle to the left, and roughly 1 inch spacing between the rows, and .84 inch spacing between magnets in each row.  However this board was drilled with each row offset one magnet width farther forward than the one next to it. What you are seeing is the top view of the layout.  The diagram on the right shows that the holes are drilled at a 33 degree angle to the left.  I put magnet shielding under these magnets on the end of the magnet.  To insure scientific integrity I secured it with duct tape.   With side poled magnets the end is the side and can be shielded.  The poles are on the sides not the ends.

Top of Top Board - shows top ends of magnets                   Side view of top board - not to scale  (6 holes are 33 degree angle to left)
_______________                                                                        _____________________
I   ns    ns            I   8 " wide                                                        I        /ns/ns/ns/ns/ns/ns/ |   1 " thick       
I     ns    ns          I         >>>Direction of travel top board>>>          I      /ns/ns/ns/ns/ns/ns/     |    represents 1 magnet
I        ns    ns       I                                                                      I    /ns/ns/ns/ns/ns/ns/      |                 
I_______________I                                                                      I_/ns/ns/ns/ns/ns/ns/_____|  < Shows sides of magnets
Top end of magnet                                                Shielding  >>>>   =============

Not sure if this clarifies anything.  I found this video very helpful in visualizing magnet spacing and seeing intuitively why it should work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txYnzn1tGnA&feature=channel_page

Final configuration:
____________
|____________| >>>top board>>>>> direction of travel>>>>
_____o______________<<<<round Pencil
|___________________|    bottom board- Stator







                                                                                                 

[TinselKoala]

Ya gotta love it.
Somebody claims to be able to make a SMOT run forever, and that they have an overunity water heater that they can, "I'm sure" hook up to itself and make it run itself.
But this somebody just can't be "arsed" to actually do it.
I guess they are just too busy drawing pretty pictures to actually close the loop in all their overunity devices. They would rather challenge ME--instead of just DOING IT.

PROVE ME WRONG, jimhitt. Show what you've actually got, not a bunch of numbers and drawings. Show that your device actually does make that much heat, that you can recover it using, heck, a steam engine if it's really that much OU. Win all those prizes.

PROVE ME WRONG.

Otherwise, we'll just have to conclude that there really isn't a working Perendev motor, nor is there a closed-loop SMOT, nor is there an overunity water heater.

(BTW--I never said a unidirectional magnetic pull was impossible. It's easy, I've done it myself many times. What I said was that it was impossible to close the loop and make a self-runner SMOT. If you are going to quote me, you should try to get it right.)