Sorry for the caps, but it's important.
Some of you will know about it so please excuse repeated info.
I have been replicating this guys stuff since April, my version is much cruder but i am getting promising results.
We have been in e-mail contact. He is now powering a 4-Watt fluorescent tube with a single 1.5 AA battery.
He is a 70-year old retired commercial aircraft engineer so his knowledge spans decades of tech development.
My crappy version of his was getting an apparent COP of 141% (I know TK, i know but you should see his).
My power measurement skils are bad but i was using a resistor as a load, when i tried to self-run it blew the tranny (oo-er).
I've been advised to use a voltage regulator but then i'd lose 1.5 watts.
Anyway ...
Here's his utube :
http://www.youtube.com/user/64298#p/u
Here's his ou.com thread :
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=9076.0
Gary.
Hi Gary,
I would suggest First try to rebuild your same setup as it worked just before the transistor blew when you tried to loop directly the output back to the input.
Then If you could make some taps on your big output coil so that you could access to lower output voltages too, then you could have an output voltage much closer to 18V. I mean for instance to get 21-22V DC only from the coil tap(s) so that the power dissipation could be much less (way less) than the 1.5W. For instance if you had a 21V DC voltage output across the diode bridge output (I do not know if you use a puffer capacitor there or not, it would be good if you did) when you load it with 0.15A or whatever input current your setup needs at 18V DC input, so this way the voltage difference were only 3V (21-18) hence the power loss in the TS317 (or a 7818) would be only 3*0.15=0.45W much less than the 1.5W previously calculated.
So if the input power is the same like before, it is 18*0.15=2.7W
Loss in the stabilizer would be 0.45W
Adding this loss to the input power you get 2.7+0.45=3.15W
IF your setup would be able to give out about this 3.15W (say 3.2-3.3W due to the loss in the diode bridge) then the looping would be a success because earlier you had about 3.8W output in the 220 Ohm resistor, you would be within the ballpark... Now your only load would be the voltage stabilizer, its 18V output looped back to your circuit input, no need for any resistor load.
So go ahead and reconstruct your setup from the ashes...
Gyula
@DC:
At least you didn't put "1.41327532" ...
;)
I'm always interested in simple pulse power circuits. It's my personal feeling that the "interesting effects" we are seeking...you know the ones... are most likely gonna happen at "high pressures and frequencies", most likely resulting either from extremely strong static electrical fields (DC), extremely high frequency RF or material vibrations (AC), or...my favorite.... very rapid risetime disruptive discharges, as produced by dumping a big cap as rapidly as possible into a small inductance which is tightly coupled to a perfectly tuned quarter-wave resonator.
If you can find out the part number of the mosfets in your little PWM unit, I suggest ordering a handful of spares from one of the mailorder component houses like DigiKey or Mouser or Farnell.
ETA: oops wrong thread, but you know what I mean...
You can't be too rich or too thin, or have too many spare mosfets.
By the way, those little neons are pretty neat, and frequently misunderstood as well. They've got high resistance when "off" but when they do come on the resistance drops abruptly, and if you don't have some current limiting ( or limited charge) they will draw as much current as you let them. Take an NE-2 and just stick it into a 20-amp wall socket sometime...but be wearing gloves and safety glasses when you do, because it will likely explode. On the other hand, once the neon is lit, if the current is properly limited it may only take a few milliamps to keep it lit.
Another neat thing is that only the negatively charged electrode actually has the glowing plasma around it. With an AC powered NE-2 style lamp it looks like both glow--but really they are alternating, blinking on and off.
I am worried that your transistor may be damaged by the high voltage spikes that your circuit likely is producing, and that won't be showing up on your meters because they are too fast.
There is a simple way to determine the approximate maximum voltage in DC spikes, using a suitable diode and capacitor, and monitoring the voltage reached on the cap as it is charged by the spike energy. If you are flashing neons you are certainly getting at least 90-100 volts in spikes; what's the Vce rating of your transistor?
It's nearly 4am here i can't sleep my mind is full of coils and pulses and i've been reading Tesla - Prodigal Genius and Lenz' Law is pissing me off and i'm wondering how Tom lights a 4-watt bulb with a 1.5v battery. And i can't sleep !
Thanks Gyula, i will do that.
TK, thanks for the knowledge shower.
I'm getting some TIP3055's tomorrow rather than the metal ase ones i had before, Vc is 70 :
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=19066&OrderCode=QH56L
*EDIT ADD*
My neon isn't an NE2, it's this one :
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1952
Cheers,
Gary.
That one is as close to being a real NE-2 as we are likely to see these days. It might be a NE-2A or something. The characteristics will be very similar, perhaps different trigger voltages. Maybe yours is a higher voltage. I think I'm using the same one on my Orbette 2.0, actually.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neon_lamp
I dunno...the various case styles of the 3055 type...there's just something about a TO-3 that inspires confidence in me. I use the straight 2n3055 a lot, it's got the power handling capability you need and can survive not being heatsunk for short periods. And I've got a nice little Jacob's Ladder that uses a 2n3055 to drive the juice through an automotive ignition coil---it's basically an electronic ignition circuit so the current through the transistor -- at 20 kHz or so -- is pretty high. 2n3055 rules !!
The TIP is its weaker cousin, in the TO-220 (or TO-247) package. Mount it to a good heatsink and you'll be OK power-wise ( the TIP handles about 3/4 the power of the 2n) , but beware of spikes coming back that exceed the modest voltage rating of the transistor, they will pop it just as fast as overheat will.
There's even a 3055 variant in a TO-92 case, IIRC. Handles 500 mW or so.
I just remembered that in the 2n3055 circuits that I use, driving inductive loads, I always use a fast recovery diode of at least 400 volts to protect the transistor.
The FR603 in this circuit.
http://www.mediafire.com/imgbnc.php/d06018d62fc4afeb575533df22f605d75g.jpg
Hi deepcut,
just read a bit on this and it seems that there is a input of a battery or power supply? has anyone "closed the loop" on this?
ie, removed the battery and have it self run?
Cliff
Thanks TK.
Argona, Tom hasn't yet tried to self run his but i have mine, and it fried the transistor.
I don't know why it fried it because i stuck a 220 ohm load resistor on there and that brought it down to a 29 volt output at around 150 mA.
I used a DPDT switch to go from the PSU to it's own power, maybe that's not the fastest way of switching.
Anyway the guy i'm replicating is far ahead of me, every time i'm nearly catching up he goes and improves it.
If you check out his youtube channel and view it in date order (i think the first one is called 12 VDC in and 140 VAC out or something similar) you'll se him even remove the magnet from the setup and the voltage continues to spiral upward to over 600 VDC. In another video he has it on almost frictionless bearings, just being supported magnetically.
Also, there's nothing 'magical' behind it. It's what i would call a pulse-driven induction generator.
Gary.
Quote from: DeepCut on December 03, 2010, 06:57:44 AM
...
Argona, Tom hasn't yet tried to self run his but i have mine, and it fried the transistor.
I don't know why it fried it because i stuck a 220 ohm load resistor on there and that brought it down to a 29 volt output at around 150 mA.
I used a DPDT switch to go from the PSU to it's own power, maybe that's not the fastest way of switching.
...
Hi Gary,
Even if you kept the 220 Ohm load across the 28V output, the moment you mechanically switched your circuit 18V input from the power supply to the 28V output, to do the looping, it is a 10V difference too high for the transistor to withstand the transient peak voltages and currents, unless you use a 800-900V device with over 10A collector current spec. Even so the runaway situation continues (voltages and currents could exceed any spec IF you do not use a voltage stabilizer in the loop that keeps the input voltage to the circuit at a constant value.
AND if you did not have a puffer capacitor across the diode bridge output, then you did not have a correct DC voltage like the one coming from your power supply because then the bridge output consisted of positive half waves what you loaded with the 220 Ohm and measured it to be 28V.
And if you use a puffer capacitor then the DC output voltage goes up to in the hundred Volts range I guess and when you load it down then it drops of course BUT then your input current draw surely goes up... I hope your measured 0.15A current from the 18V DC input was measured when the 220 Ohm load was connected?
So as wrote elsewhere to you today the best would be to make taps on your big coil and also use puffer cap (1000-2200uF) across the diode bridge output and adjust the output voltage by using some coil taps until it is about 22-23V DC with the puffer cap and a separate load of 150-160mA: if this is so then comes the TS317 or 7818, check again to load its 18V output with the 150mA and if it is able to supply 150mA steadily while there remains 22-23V DC across its input, then you could make the looping.
(Here I assume your input power is nearly the same like before (18V and 150mA) AND here the 150mA is the value measured WHEN the output of the TS317 is loaded with 150mA current!)
Gyula
*EDIT ADD*
Gyula i posted this before i read your message above, i was doing stuff while writing the post.
*/EDIT ADD*
Can't use the tapping idea, it's a pound of wire and it's not exactly wound like a so-called Tesla coil so the early windings are well-covered by the later ones and not accessible :(
And i just blew a rectifier so off to the shop.
I've followed TK's suggestion and stuck a HUGE heat sink on the transistor.
I've also stuck a diode back on the collector and atached a battery to charge.
So it's now a standard Bedini setup but with a DC PSU instead of a primary battery.
It's charging up the battery incredibly quickly, a couple of minutes per 100th of a volt, i'm used to 15-20 minutes per 100th of a volt with a normal Bedini setup using ceramic magnets.
I'll be impressed if the battery holds it's voltage ever again as it was a dud i was sent that just woudln't hold charge. Right now it's just somewhere to dump the charge instead of the transistor.
Right, i'm off to get a rectifier.
Thanks,
Gary.
@Gyula
Yes i did have a puffer cap and did th meaurements with it attached but it's a 35uF 450v.
I'll grab a cap of your specs as well as the rectifier.
Thanks,
Gary.
Well, I meant the 1000-2200uF value puffer capacitor to use when you already reduced the big coil output voltage to nearly the 22-23V rectified and loaded value, otherwise it would cost a fortune to get a 1000uF 350V cap... and no real need for then. Maybe a 100-220uF 350V or 450V cap would be justified to use.
So the problem still is your output voltage is too high... what if if you look for a cylinder i.e. drum shaped plastic container in the kitchenwares and you would wind the turns from your present wire holder onto this new "bobin" so that you could make taps in the winding process? I know it would be a tiresome job for sure... You could make two U shaped holders for the old and the new bobins, with a shaft across them for insuring rotation... etc
Gyula
Hi Gyula,
iv'e made a little wooden coiler that i can attach my drill to in order to turn so it's not that much of a job.
Unfortunately my girlfriend is asking me to 'get your bloody head out of that computer' so i can't see it happening tonight.
I managed to get a rectifier and a few more resistors plus two voltage regulators.
Women getting in the way of free energy - i should do a Tesla and become celibut ;+}
Will get back on it tomorrow, also my new analogue meter arrived :)
Thanks,
Gary.
See what i bloody mean :
http://www.google.com/hostednews/ukpress/article/ALeqM5j1SiV4WluKPbJwo5vfiA-IYE9Dhg?docId=N0418061291371426841A
This happens every year over here ...
Tom has just posted his latest video, using a small amgnet and a 1.5 volt battery.
It's the same setup he used to power a 4-watt fluorescent tube that blew the circuit.
It's a private video so not searchable on youtube :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzS9UKdJfdM
I would encourage everyone who has the time (the cost is low) to do this themselves, it's the most interesting thing i've seen on any forum as far as potential overunity goes.
Thanks,
Gary.