PLEASE REPLICATE THIS !!!

[TinselKoala]

That one is as close to being a real NE-2 as we are likely to see these days. It might be a NE-2A or something. The characteristics will be very similar, perhaps different trigger voltages. Maybe yours is a higher voltage. I think I'm using the same one on my Orbette 2.0, actually.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neon_lamp

I dunno...the various case styles of the 3055 type...there's just something about a TO-3 that inspires confidence in me. I use the straight 2n3055 a lot, it's got the power handling capability you need and can survive not being heatsunk for short periods. And I've got a nice little Jacob's Ladder that uses a 2n3055 to drive the juice through an automotive ignition coil---it's basically an electronic ignition circuit so the current through the transistor -- at 20 kHz or so -- is pretty high. 2n3055 rules !!
The TIP is its weaker cousin, in the TO-220 (or TO-247) package. Mount it to a good heatsink and you'll be OK power-wise ( the TIP handles about 3/4 the power of the 2n) , but  beware of spikes coming back that exceed the modest voltage rating of the transistor, they will pop it just as fast as overheat will.

There's even a 3055 variant in a TO-92 case, IIRC. Handles 500 mW or so.

[TinselKoala]

I just remembered that in the 2n3055 circuits that I use, driving inductive loads, I always use a fast recovery diode of at least 400 volts to protect the transistor.
The FR603 in this circuit.
http://www.mediafire.com/imgbnc.php/d06018d62fc4afeb575533df22f605d75g.jpg

[argona369]

Hi deepcut,

just read a bit on this and it seems that there is a input of a battery or power supply? has anyone "closed the loop"  on this?
ie, removed the battery and have it self run?

Cliff

[DeepCut]

Thanks TK.

Argona, Tom hasn't yet tried to self run his but i have mine, and it fried the transistor.

I don't know why it fried it because i stuck a 220 ohm load resistor on there and that brought it down to a 29 volt output at around 150 mA.

I used a DPDT switch to go from the PSU to it's own power, maybe that's not the fastest way of switching.

Anyway the guy i'm replicating is far ahead of me, every time i'm nearly catching up he goes and improves it.

If you check out his youtube channel and view it in date order (i think the first one is called 12 VDC in and 140 VAC out or something similar) you'll se him even remove the magnet from the setup and the voltage continues to spiral upward to over 600 VDC. In another video he has it on almost frictionless bearings, just being supported magnetically.

Also, there's nothing 'magical' behind it. It's what i would call a pulse-driven induction generator.


Gary.

[gyulasun]

...
Argona, Tom hasn't yet tried to self run his but i have mine, and it fried the transistor.

I don't know why it fried it because i stuck a 220 ohm load resistor on there and that brought it down to a 29 volt output at around 150 mA.

I used a DPDT switch to go from the PSU to it's own power, maybe that's not the fastest way of switching.
...

Hi Gary,

Even if you kept the 220 Ohm load across the 28V output, the moment you mechanically switched your circuit 18V input from the power supply to the 28V output, to do the looping, it is a 10V difference too high for the transistor  to withstand the transient peak voltages and currents, unless you use a 800-900V device with over 10A collector current spec.  Even so the runaway situation continues (voltages and currents could exceed any spec IF you do not use a voltage stabilizer in the loop that keeps the input voltage to the circuit at a constant value.

AND if you did not have a puffer capacitor across the diode bridge output, then you did not have a correct DC voltage like the one coming from your power supply because then the bridge output consisted of positive half waves what you loaded with the 220 Ohm and measured it to be 28V.
And if you use a puffer capacitor then the DC output voltage goes up to in the hundred Volts range I guess and when you load it down then it drops of course BUT then your input current draw surely goes up... I hope your measured 0.15A current from the 18V DC input was measured when the 220 Ohm load was connected?

So as wrote elsewhere to you today the best would be to make taps on your big coil and also use puffer cap (1000-2200uF) across the diode bridge output and adjust the output voltage by using some coil taps until it is about 22-23V DC with the puffer cap and a separate load of 150-160mA: if this is so then comes the TS317 or 7818, check again to load its 18V output with the 150mA and if it is able to supply 150mA steadily while there remains 22-23V DC across its input, then you could make the looping.
(Here I assume your input power is nearly the same like before (18V and 150mA) AND here the 150mA is the value measured WHEN the output of the TS317 is loaded with 150mA current!)

Gyula